Is this a classic Alternator problem?

7birdslater

Registered User
I have been driving the SC all last week to work and its been running great. I started it tonight to go grab something to eat, it cranked good and started right up. Then the bat light lit up on my way there. It would get dimmer when you rev the engine but never went out. I killed all things I didnt need on like the radio, heater and defroster....The bat light was flickering at stoplights, and wouldn't you know I hit every single red light. :mad: It steadily got worse until everything was really dimm and the engine started to sputter. I had to make the last half mile at night with no headlights on to keep it running! Now my battery is almost dead.

Sounds too easy. :) What do you guys think?
 
That means the system is not charging. Most likely it's due to the alternator. They ain't cheap on this car.
 
Hell no they aren't. I work at AZ and they are order only for me, so I get no discount. $130 + $55 for a core. I'm glad that I got a few tbird buddies around here, so I could borrow one till I bought it new.
 
At least I made it home right? My uncle owns a starter and alternator shop in Illinois, maybe I will keep this old one and see what he can do with it next time I go up that way.

The parts stores web site was listing 80 amp. I want a 110 to 130 right? Thanks guys!
 
before you replace it get it tested @ autozone or somthing & they should be able to charge your battery too, should be free for both
 
Mitsubishi 110amp alternator. If your Uncle has a shop and rebuilds alts, that's the best way to go. It won't usally cost any more than a reman alt, and you usually are more likely to get a good job done. The problem your Uncle could have is the parts are mitsubishi version, so parts costs are not gonna be cheap.

i had mine rebuild on the 90 at a local shop and it was only $90 and that was replacing the stator and regulator.
 
Well with my brand new 844 cranking amp battery, the light is still doing the same thing and the voltage is 12.3 while running with a voltmeter. I needed a new battery anyway, the old one was too small.
 
Well with my brand new 844 cranking amp battery, the light is still doing the same thing and the voltage is 12.3 while running with a voltmeter. I needed a new battery anyway, the old one was too small.

It should be about 14.0 volts when running....sounds like the alternator needs to be replaced.

David
 
Well with my brand new 844 cranking amp battery, the light is still doing the same thing and the voltage is 12.3 while running with a voltmeter. I needed a new battery anyway, the old one was too small.

Let me guess. it shows 12.3 volts when the key on the car is off too?
 
I had a problem with an Alternator doing the same thing a while back .. stupid thing, turned out a wire near the fuse box that goes to the alternator came unplugged. Found that out after we replaced the battery, and alternator.

Have you tried disconnecting the battery while the car is running and testing voltage at the alternator ? Yeah I know, not good for the electronics.

- Dan
 
I havent tried much other than checking at the terminals. Its the same voltage running or not. I poked around the main fuse box and didnt see anything suspicious. I know my battery was small and questionable. But its new now. Guess its time to remove the intercooler tube and get it out to be tested. :D
 
I removed the alternator today, and shot the wires from it, they are good. The back of the alternator is coated in what looks like pieces of the hood blanket. Allmost like hair. Im sure that helped to heat up the regulator circuit. That and the fact that this alternator appears to be the original with allmost 150K miles on it......

On a side note, how many of you put that rear bolt back in? What a stupid PIA that was. :)
 
I put it back in to support the alt. Vibration on the casing isn't good. If you had a battery go bad and drove the car for a while, that's almost certain death to the alternator. These alternators are simply not designed to charge a dead battery, they will give it a valiant effort but in the end, they are about to die after such an experience.
 
I had a similar experience, sitting at the drive-through at the bank idleing (I have March underdrive pulleys) the yellow/orange battery light was coming on and when I rev the engine it would go out and come back on at low rpm so I thought it was just the pulleys. I went out on the freeway and the radio turned off and the vents were stopping then blowing, etc. So, I was real close to Interstate Battery where I got my Optima red-top. As I was exiting the freeway I barely had enough power to keep the engine running, it was coughing and sputtering and died as I turned into the parking lot (talk about luck) so the guys came out and helped me push it into a parking space and tested it. They swapped out the battery with a brand new one, no charge, and it started right up and ran fine, they tested the alternator and it was shot. On my '95 I didn't have to remove the intercooler tubes, it was tricky but once I learned the trick it's easy and I can get it out in about 5 minutes. I took it to a little shop called RRR D/C Experts and they just happened to have alternator internals that looked almost identical but it fit and worked perfect. Haven't had any problems since.
 
Back on the road

Well I fixed it today. I acquired a used factory Ford alternator and had it tested on the bench at Advance prior to installing it. The old alt was putting out about 4 volts on the bench. With my new battery, I hope it lasts a while.
I am glad I took my upper IC tube off, because now that I resealed it, im up to right under 20HG at idle. I used to be a bit less than that. I wanted it done today, so permatex copper had to do the job. Thanks for the help guys!:D :D
 
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