Changing Motor Mounts

txsc

txsc

Registered User
I have new engine and transmission mounts ordered from Victor at Spinning Wheels. I plan to replace them in my '89 automatic car next weekend, or the week after.

I plan to raise the engine from underneath (after putting the car on jack stands), and suspend the engine from the top with a support rig of my design. I've located the RH factory lifting ring near the valve cover, but couldn't find anything on the LH side of the engine.

Question: Will the supercharger outlet tube support the engine on the LH side? I'm going to use nylon straps to secure the engine to the support rig once it's been raised. It appears that with the 4 bolts holding the outlet housing to the supercharger, and the fastener holding the outlet tube to the P/S bracket, it would be adequate. Has anyone done this in the past while changing motor mounts, or is there a better support point on the LH side?

Thanks for your input and suggestions.

JD
 
I wouldn't.... You need to take the IC tubes loose to move the engine up and down anyways so I'd take the SC top and upper tube off gettem outta my way and use a bracket bolt to secure my strap to.
 
Sweet90SC said:
I wouldn't.... You need to take the IC tubes loose to move the engine up and down anyways so I'd take the SC top and upper tube off gettem outta my way and use a bracket bolt to secure my strap to.
Click to expand...

you dont have to take the top sc tube off i didnt on my sc and i have done 3 left mounts so far.
 
i put a block of wood on my floor jack and placed it under the oil pan and lifted the motor enough to remove the old mounts and install the new ones. i removed both accessory brackets and i/c tubes and had plenty of room to work. while you at it throw away that power steering bracket that connects to the waterpump housing, it's a useless piece of crap.
 
And another option (not necessarily better, just different) is to support the engine and drop the subframe to get at them. I did it that way a couple of weeks ago because I had to replace my rod bearings in addition to the motor mounts. The accessories and IC can stay put this way, but it's still a ton of work.
 
Well, I don't think the I/C tubes need to come off to make this work. And, I'd rather suspend the engine, than block it up from the bottom. That will give me a ton more working room underneath, and I don't like the idea of supporting the engine on the oil pan. Another option that I've done before is to jack on the harmonic balancer (not on an SC), but I'm not considering that option for obvious reasons.

I've considered dropping the K-frame, but I'm not sure I want to open that can of worms. I think I'd rather struggle with the raised engine a little bit. Of course, I might change my mind once I get started!

So, I guess I'm back to my original quesion: Where can I suspend the LH side of the engine?
 
Take your PS bracket off and hang it from one of the bolts into the head. You need that thing out of the way to R&R the mounts anyway.

Nick
 
If this is the first time you're replacing engine mounts, I suggest that you remove the IC pipes, which will make it much easier to see what you're doing.
If you've never removed the IC pipes, now's a good time to practice. Reusable IC gaskets make the job of reassembly and alignment easy.
If you decide not to remove the IC pipes ,remember to remove the two bolts between the bellows and the IC.
I've had the engine supported from below at the oil pan for two months with no noticeable adverse effect.
Before you begin to raise/tilt the engine, remove the ACT sensor so it doesn't hit the cowl. If you wait till after you've begun to raise the engine ,there may not be enough space to unscrew the sensor.
 
Well, y'all have convinced me to pull the I/C tubes to do the motor mounts. I'm going to order a set of replaceable seals from tin knocker as soon as he responds to my P/M. I agree that this will probably make it a ton easier as well as open up plenty of good lifting locations.

Another thing occurred to me as I contemplated removing the I/C tubes. This is probably the golden opportunity to replace the plugs and wires also.

So, what has everyone had the best luck with on 1) Spark Plugs, and 2) Plug Wires? My intentions are to leave this car stock with the exception of some exhaust improvements in the future. My only requirement is that the wires be black or preferably gray like the originals (no colored wires for me!).

Thanks to everyone here for their great advise so far, and please let me know what's working for everyone on plugs and wires.

Thanks,

JD
 
If you want good wires that look like the originals, you can't beat a set of Motorcraft wires from the dealer. Last time I bought a set several years ago they were $60. I've never run any other kind of wire. Most people in a stock application like to run the double platinum Autolite/Motorcrafts. I just run regular copper Autolites, but life will be decreased over the double plats.
 
txsc said:
Well, y'all have convinced me to pull the I/C tubes to do the motor mounts.
Click to expand...
A very essential part of owning an SC is to be able to do this w/o a moment's pause. If you don't already have one, buy a PSP pulley puller tool. It will save you lots of aggravation and is needed if you ever have to replace the water pump.
txsc said:
Another thing occurred to me as I contemplated removing the I/C tubes. This is probably the golden opportunity to replace the plugs and wires also.

So, what has everyone had the best luck with on 1) Spark Plugs, and 2) Plug Wires? My intentions are to leave this car stock with the exception of some exhaust improvements in the future. My only requirement is that the wires be black or preferably gray like the originals (no colored wires for me!).
Click to expand...
Perfect time to do so. The Autolite 2244s double plats seem to be popular. I have a plain jane set of wires from Autozone which are grey and have boots that are easy to work with.


And back to your original question. I wouldn't use the IC tubes to support the engine weight, but the PSP bracket that the tubes are bolted to should work fine. It is secured to the block with 3 good sized bolts. If you wrap your strap such that the bracket is taking the load, even partly around a tube attachment point, that should work. :cool:
 
TbirdSCFan said:
A very essential part of owning an SC is to be able to do this w/o a moment's pause. If you don't already have one, buy a PSP pulley puller tool. It will save you lots of aggravation and is needed if you ever have to replace the water pump.
Perfect time to do so. The Autolite 2244s double plats seem to be popular. I have a plain jane set of wires from Autozone which are grey and have boots that are easy to work with.


And back to your original question. I wouldn't use the IC tubes to support the engine weight, but the PSP bracket that the tubes are bolted to should work fine. It is secured to the block with 3 good sized bolts. If you wrap your strap such that the bracket is taking the load, even partly around a tube attachment point, that should work. :cool:
Click to expand...

Yes, I have a pulley removal kit that takes care of the P/S pump pulley, and the spanner for the outlet tube nut. I've already had the tubes off my XR7. I don't mind pulling them, but don't want to go to anymore work than is necessary. I've got a set of reusable I/C tube seals on the way. Like you, I figured there'd be plenty of suspension points with the tubes out of the way.

I'm looking for the Motorcraft plugs (AWSF32PP, or AGSF34FM) because I've been reading that some have had problems with the Autolite plugs. Are you running the Autolites? Let me know how they're working for you. Also, I think I'm going to spring for Motorcraft wires. They're only like $65, and I want to put them on and forget about it.

I've got a few days off coming at the first of the month, so I'm going to put the silver car in the shop, and take a few days to mess around with the mounts, plugs, wires, etc.

Thanks!

JD
 
txsc said:
Yes, I have a pulley removal kit that takes care of the P/S pump pulley, and the spanner for the outlet tube nut. I've already had the tubes off my XR7. I don't mind pulling them, but don't want to go to anymore work than is necessary. I've got a set of reusable I/C tube seals on the way. Like you, I figured there'd be plenty of suspension points with the tubes out of the way.

I'm looking for the Motorcraft plugs (AWSF32PP, or AGSF34FM) because I've been reading that some have had problems with the Autolite plugs. Are you running the Autolites? Let me know how they're working for you. Also, I think I'm going to spring for Motorcraft wires. They're only like $65, and I want to put them on and forget about it.

I've got a few days off coming at the first of the month, so I'm going to put the silver car in the shop, and take a few days to mess around with the mounts, plugs, wires, etc.

Thanks!

JD
Click to expand...

FWIW

About the plug wires....You can get Motorcraft wires from Murrays Discount Auto and they come with a lifetime warranty.'

If you have a location near you great if not order from them online.
 
doug93sc said:
FWIW

About the plug wires....You can get Motorcraft wires from Murrays Discount Auto and they come with a lifetime warranty.'

If you have a location near you great if not order from them online.
Click to expand...

We don't have Murrays here, so I'll hit 'em online. Thanks for the tip!!

JD
 
J.D. said:
If this is the first time you're replacing engine mounts, I suggest that you remove the IC pipes, which will make it much easier to see what you're doing.
If you've never removed the IC pipes, now's a good time to practice. Reusable IC gaskets make the job of reassembly and alignment easy.
If you decide not to remove the IC pipes ,remember to remove the two bolts between the bellows and the IC.
I've had the engine supported from below at the oil pan for two months with no noticeable adverse effect.
Before you begin to raise/tilt the engine, remove the ACT sensor so it doesn't hit the cowl. If you wait till after you've begun to raise the engine ,there may not be enough space to unscrew the sensor.
Click to expand...



Maybe I wasn't clear...so this was my point...thanks

Tin-Knocker105 (Tony) has some sets of the gaskets left too...and they work super
 
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I'm pulling the tubes, all the plastic off the cowl, any sensors or other components that interfere, whatever needs to come off the front of the motor, etc. Reusable seals are inbound from Tony - shipped today. Right now, just trying to confirm the best plugs and wires to install while I'm at it.

I also will likely have a set of '94 exhaust manifolds coming. Anyone know if the same down-tubes will fit (outlets in the same place), or will I need to order a set of "cat-less" tubes from Texas Thunderbirds? I may wait on the manifolds until Phase II; I'd like to get them ported out before installation, but don't want to wait that long to install the mounts.

Thanks,

JD
 
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