Here You Go
I am taking my recently damaged 35th Anniversary car to the body shop this week for a complete paint job.
I am taking the car 'apart' before delivering it, so I need to ask a few questions here of the 'experts'!
1) How are the moldings that run along the top of the 1/4 panel/roof joint removed? These are the ones that start just aft of the top rear of the door frame and extend to the upper corner of the backlite(back window).
2) How are the upper pieces of trim removed from both the windshield and the rear/back window? ( and how can they be refurbished? I was thinking of sanding them down and spraying with undercoating...)
3) Are the rub strip moldings on the doors and front portion of the 1/4 panels attached with fasteners or adhesive? If with fasteners, how to remove?
4) How is the rubber trim around the upper portion of the door window removed? It appears that the entires window asembly must be removed to pull the entire 'glass run' out, but I don't really want to do that. Any hints?
I know there must be several here who have tackled this stuff, so any help is certainly appreciated!
1) They are retained with some step blocks that wedge into the gutter where the roof skin is welded to the quarter. You should be able to pry up on the molding with some plastic wedges (protect the paint), and gently pry the moulding loose. The FSM shows that there's one screw holding it in from underneath, but I've not found that to be the case on my cars. That may not have actually made it into production. If yours actually has the screw as the FSM shows, you'll need to drop the headliner to gain access. The wedge blocks can be pryed out of the gutter once the moulding is free. There will be a ton of crud in the gutter that will need to be cleaned out. Trust me.
2) The upper windshield and backlight trim are attached with clips. You can gently pry up on the moulding, and it should pop free of the clips. I've had luck pushing a plastic spatula straight down between the roof skin and the moulding while using another one to push up underneath the moulding between the window. Once you get the first one free, then you can easily see how they work. After the moulding is free, you can remove the clips from the body studs, if you wish.
As far as refinishing, I'm not sure. They're made as an extrusion over an aluminum carrier, then arched to shape. They have a reveal lip that lays down against the glass. That's pretty hard to duplicate. But, I suppose you could scuff and re-shoot yours if they're not in terrible shape. However, you can still get brand-spanking new ones from Ford. Victor at Spinning Wheels SC also carries them. If you're going to the trouble to repaint the car, why not splurge for a new set. I think they run about $35 or so, each.
3) Rub mouldings are attached with double-sided adhesive tape. Use a plastic spatula, or a pice of strong line wrapped around two handles to "saw" through the tape. After removal, you'll need to remove the tape residue from both the moulding and the door. After the paintwork is finished, you can reattach with new double-sided 3M tape. Your body shop should be able to set you up with what you need.
4) I used to work for a company that made these exact parts, so I know how they're made, and how fragile they are. The glass runs are attached with friction on the pinchweld of the window opening in the door. The front leg is bolted to the inner door skin with a stamped bracket. You'll need to remove the window glass and bracket bolt before attempting to remove the glass run. If you decide to pull the glass runs, be VERY VERY VERY careful with the glass run, during removal, during storage, and during installation. The corner nearest the "B" pillar is EXTREMELY fragile. If you kink or break it there, it goes in the trash. I reccommend using plenty of dish soap solution to lubricate under the inside and outside of the glass run before and during removal. Again, some plastic spatulas will help start to break it loose. Begin at the "B" pillar corner, and alternately work the top and vertical leg. The goal is to maintain the factory angle of the "B" pillar corner of the glass run during removal. I might even go as far as cutting a 6" x 6" piece of masonite to the same angle as the glass, and using it as a support during storage and installation. You can push it up in the corner exactly as the glass would fit.
You didn't mention the mouldings that run up along the sides of the windshield, along the top of the door openings, and join with the mouldings in 1), above. If you're going to all this trouble, I'd definately pull these, too. Pull the roof rail weatherstrip free from the flange on this moulding, and drill out the 9 rivets holding it in place. You can get replacement rivets from any glass shop. Go carefully here. One slip, and you'll put a nasty ding in the moulding with the drill.
Also, if you're not already planning to do so, this is the golden opportunity to replace the black-out decal behind the front windows. You can peel the old decals off with a little bit of heat. Clean up the residual adhesive with a little solvent. You can get replacements from a source that I can't remember right now for about $20. I got these for my XR7, and they're excellent. I can look up the source if you're interested. Many people paint this area, but it's not as durable as the decal. Plus, the decal is correct.
My advise, for what it's worth, is go to the local salvage yard, and practice on a junker. You'll quickly get the hang of removing these pieces without risking your 35th., and you'll be an expert in no time.
Good Luck!!
JD