Are my front suspension bushings junk? *Pics*

3.8

Registered User
Here's the bushings that are where some rod connects to the lower control arm. There is a big gap between the bushings and the lower control arm. Is this normal or do they need replaced? What is the procedure for replacement? Where can I buy the parts and what are they called?







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The strut rod bushings are completely worn out. My old T-bird made a loud "tuk" sound when taking a sharp turn at slow speeds because of this. The other bushings in the lower control arms are likely worn out as well. It's probably cheaper to replace the complete control arm assemblies, which come with new ball joints and bushings. The rubber boot for the sway bar endlink is shot; replace the endlinks as well.
 
Tension strut

http://www.partsamerica.com/ProductList.aspx?PartType=76&PTSet=A&SearchFor=Strut Rod Kit
I bought the 57.99 ones, (you get what you pay for, made with a very hard rubber.)


Try a 'Search' for tenson strut or tension rod
Basically they keep the Lower control arm from moving forwards and back during braking. I would guess when you put on the brakes the car may pull left or right.

>Worn strut rod/radius rod/tension control rod bushings will cause excessive caster change and make the car want to change lanes when the brakes are applied. Poly-urethane strut rod bushings, with their increased density will decrease castor change. Poly urethane will not degrade like rubber, so they will last much longer than rubber. I once purchased a nice '65 Mustang with drum brakes from an owner who was frustrated with the car, because he could not make it stop in a straight line. When I went to look at the car, he told me of the problem with the brakes. He told me how he had replaced all the brake hardware, backing plates, shoes and the drums. He adjusted the wheel bearings properly, and it still wanted to pull to the left. I offered to tell him how to fix the problem. He was so upset he said, "you buy the car and you fix it. I'm through working on this turd". I purchased the car for a terrific price. Took it to the shop. Replaced the strut rod bushings with E.S. #4-7111-G. Drove the car and slammed on the brakes. The car came to a stop in a perfect straight line. He was right, he did a great brake job. But the brakes were not the problem. It was the strut rod bushings all the time. Nissan 300ZX owners, this applies to you too. If you notice tire wear on the inside of the tread, you should suspect the control arm bushings. <
 
Absolutely.

I just shot-gunned all of my front suspension components in my 1990 SC -- new strut-rod bushings, new strut-rod-to-frame doughnuts, new endlinks, new lower control arm bushings and ball-joints, new upper control arm bushings and ball-joints.

The lower and upper control arms can be purchased with the bushings and ball-joints pre-installed -- MUCH easier and less time consuming to replace than traditional method of replacing individual ball-joints and bushings in old control arms.

Since the lower ball-joints must be separated from the spindle BEFORE you can replace the strut-rod bushings, it is wise to go ahead, since you have the strut-rods loose, to replace the strut-rod-to-frame doughnut-sized bushings at the same time -- doing so at a later time will entail breaking the lower ball-joints loose AGAIN, and chance damaging the lower ball-joint dust boots -- ask me how I know . . .

Cammer
 
Absolutely.

I just shot-gunned all of my front suspension components in my 1990 SC -- new strut-rod bushings, new strut-rod-to-frame doughnuts, new endlinks, new lower control arm bushings and ball-joints, new upper control arm bushings and ball-joints.

The lower and upper control arms can be purchased with the bushings and ball-joints pre-installed -- MUCH easier and less time consuming to replace than traditional method of replacing individual ball-joints and bushings in old control arms.

Since the lower ball-joints must be separated from the spindle BEFORE you can replace the strut-rod bushings, it is wise to go ahead, since you have the strut-rods loose, to replace the strut-rod-to-frame doughnut-sized bushings at the same time -- doing so at a later time will entail breaking the lower ball-joints loose AGAIN, and chance damaging the lower ball-joint dust boots -- ask me how I know . . .

Cammer

If you have parts numbers for what you did can you post them? they can be good for comparison purposes and to help some out locating what they need for theirs.

S
 
Lower control arm assembly, complete with bushings and ball-joints:

Moog K80053


Upper control arm assembly, complete with bushings and ball-joints:

Moog K8596


Stabilizer Bar End-Link Kit

Moog 8633


Strut Rod - Spindle End Bushings


Moog Part # K8680


Strut Rod - Frame End Doughnut-sized Bushings


Moog Part # K8659
 
Thanks for all of the part numbers... that makes it easy.

Does the big nut on the strut rod on the backside of the lower control arm come off to remove the strut rod?



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Does the big nut on the strut rod on the backside of the lower control arm come off to remove the strut rod?

Yes, and remember, when holding the strut rod with an open wrench, place the wrench as close as possible to the lower control arm. Don't grip the strut rod near the middle where the bend is.
 
Thanks for the tip. It may be a few weeks until I can work on the suspension... I've got the engine torn apart now *trying* to replace the steering hoses... what a mess. :cool:
 
3.8,

Find below complete part numbers -- I neglected a couple in my previous answer to you.


<b>Lower Control Arm Assembly, Complete With Bushings And Ball-Joints</b>

Moog K80055 (driver's side)
Moog K80053 (passenger's side)


<b>Upper Control Arm Assembly, Complete With Bushings And Ball-Joints</b>

Moog K8598 (driver's side)
Moog K8596 (passenger's side)


<b>Stabilizer Bar End-Link Kit</b>

Moog 8633


<b>Strut Rod - Spindle-End Bushings</b>

Moog Part # K8680


<b>Strut Rod - Frame-End Doughnut-sized Bushings</b>

Moog Part # K8659
 
You may not need to replace the Lower Control Arms. But the Strut Rod Bushings are definately shot. If you do decide to replace the Lower Control Arms, I would suggest you try to find these parts instead of the Moog ones listed.

TRW 10771 & TRW 10772 . Advance Auto may have them but you will have to order them. If you do find them they come with the Strut Rod Bushings you need to replace too. I paid $55 a side last year for them. I thought a good deal. These TRW parts are verified to be SC Specific as opposed to the generic Moog parts which do not list a difference between the NA version and SC. The SC has a Inner Control Arm Bushing that is almost twice as hard as the NA version.
 
The TRW parts are the proper ones for our car. The Moog parts will fit, but as Duffy has pointed out many times, the durometer of the rubber used for the bushing is different between trw and moog. If you're trying to get your car back to that showroom performance level, you want to get the TRW part. If you just want to get it running again and won't care if there is a bit more compliance, then get the Moog part.
 
yea partsamerica.com or advance is great!! would be great if you can get them for a good price from ford parts counter also
 
Another example of where I made mistakes in the past when I did not know better was when I decided to rebuild my lower control arms using piece parts instead of buying the complete assembly. You cannot buy the SC lower control arm inner bushing as an individual part. Also if you choose to use aftermarket greasable ball joints likewise a bad idea. The reason MN 12 Ball Joints are not greaseable is they are teflon lined for low friction. Substituting a greaseable ball joint (which is a steel on steel joint with grease to lower friction) introduces additional friction into the steering system. The upper ball joint is likewise teflon lined and nongreaseable as well.
 
Duffy, if I get the TRW lower arm kits, do I need to buy any other bushings to replace on the front end?

Thanks!
 
David,

I can't answer that given I have never seen your car. I would check the front strut rod bushings though for sure. I have rebuilt the entiire on front suspension on my car. Upper and Lower Control Arms, tie rod ends and Strut Rod Bushings at both ends. Sway bar end links and shocks too. Also make sure you get a 4 wheel alignmemt when you complete the work.
 
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