ARP Moly Lube

txsc

Registered User
My ARP head stud kit showed up today. I assumed it would come with the moly lube they recommend for installation. It did not. So, I need to find an appropriate substitute before installing the heads.

Has anyone used any other lube successfully? I would think any moly lube would be adequate. Want to check here before buying/using anything.

Thanks,

JD
 
If I remember correctly you can use a 30w oil, but it changes the torques a little bit. Hopefully someone else can chime in with some more info.
 
Most performance parts (speed shops) will stock the APR or similar lube. Napa may even carry the stuff. Get the lube and remember that when using studs all that torque to yeild crap about loosening the bolts tightening X degrees goes out the window. Use a small amount rtv on all the short studs for the threads that go into the block.

Torque them in 4 steps...30, 50, 70 & 90 ft. lbs. allow the motor to sit an hour or so and repeat the final 90 ft. lb torque sequence one more time. Several of the repair manuals are also wrong on the intake manifold torque. Follow the manual's sequence and torque down the intake in 3 steps 10, 18 and ending with 25 ft lbs.

David
 
You can also call ARP and ask them for some moly lube. Ive had some rod bolts that stripped on accident and they sent me out replacements at no charge. I dont think they would mind sending out some lube if you dont mind waiting a couple days, especially if yours did not come with any.

- Dan
 
Thanks for the excellent info. I'm going to try and get the heads on tomorrow, so I'll probably just hit up some speed shops to try and come up with a tube. Dave, thanks for the torque values; that solves another minor mystery for me.

JD
 
I ended up having alot of extra lube after buying a few sets of ARP bolts. I still use it on any bolt I have to get an accurate torque spec on.

- Dan
 
In the kit you should have an instruction sheet. It will tell you what the torque specs are for both the moly and 30w oil. Since you are missing the lube, you might be missing the instructions also. A quick call to ARP will fix that problem.

New bolts and studs will stretch a bit before they reach thier maximum strength. If you've ever restrung a guitar, you know what I mean.

David Neibert: Torque them in 4 steps...30, 50, 70 & 90 ft. lbs. allow the motor to sit an hour or so and repeat the final 90 ft. lb torque sequence one more time.

I totally agree. I did a little stretch experiment a while back with a new set of studs. It took 3 retorque procedures for the stud to reach it's final "set". Some even believe they must heat cycled before maximum strength is seen.

I'm sure it's been mentioned before but since I'm a newbie, I'll say it again. You should loosen each nut/bolt intil it's loose and retorque them one at a time following the pattern.

Brian
 
I picked up a packet of ARP moly lube at a local speed shop this morning. I also got an 11 x 1.50 plug tap. Couldn't get a bottoming tap, so I'm going to cut the end off to make my own. I'll follow Dave's torque increments, and re-torque the 90 ft/lb. sequence after the car has sat for a few hours.

Thanks!

JD
 
JD

Your threads are right in sync with what I need to know for my HG job.

I was glad to see the note about intake torque specs, I have seen conflicting values for the torque.

I also had to get a 11mm x 1.50 Tap at NAPA today--no bottom tap,
so off to the grinder (sound familiar).

I got my heads back together last night, I bought a new spring compressor
from Sears, it was a lot better than my old clunker--didn't loose any keepers!

Could you measure the thickness of your IC teflon gaskets for me, so I can pick up the correct thickness Teflon sheet.

Did you have any trouble getting formed rear heater hose's?


Thanks, Garry
 
Just to clarify....I do not subscribe to the loosening each nut/stud method before the final torque sequence on the heads. I've heard of doing it that way when using copper gaskets after the initial heat cycle, but not on composite or MLS gaskets. Right or wrong, I simply go thru the sequence one more time at 90 ft lbs. and call it done.

David
 
Just to clarify....I do not subscribe to the loosening each nut/stud method before the final torque sequence on the heads. I've heard of doing it that way when using copper gaskets after the initial heat cycle, but not on composite or MLS gaskets. Right or wrong, I simply go thru the sequence one more time at 90 ft lbs. and call it done.

David

That didn't sound right to me, either, for comp head gaskets. I'm going with your suggested torque increments, then hitting the 90 lb/ft. step again after a few hours.

Thanks,

JD
 
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