View Full Version : Rad fan(Fixed lmao...)

02-10-2007, 02:30 PM
Hey guys, I tried a seach but The ones I find all seem to have ircm probs. Ive jumped the fan and both the high and low speed run but once pluged back in the car can go all the way past M without coming on, even with defrost on. Like I said I tried 2 IRCM's and it has a new ECT sensor, I remember reading that theres 2 more coolant sensors? Could these be causing my problems? If you need more info on the prob let me know, Ill be in the garage playing:rolleyes:

Joisey Jim
02-10-2007, 03:04 PM
What year is your SC. Early models, like 89-93 had a fusible link for the fan power and 94-95 actually had fuses under the hood. Have you checked these out? Also have you tried cutting the IRCM wire # 14 to see if the low speed now runs all the time. Plus put your a/c or defroster on and the low speed should run at idle & up to 47mph.

02-10-2007, 03:31 PM
Its a 90, wheres this fuseable link? And it wont run even with the defrost on. I couldnt find a fuse in either box?

Joisey Jim
02-10-2007, 03:45 PM
You'll have to trace the wiring harness from the fan motor. I recall it runs around the back of the battery to the power bus.

02-10-2007, 07:25 PM
I cant seem to locate it..............any one on here know an exact location?

02-10-2007, 07:42 PM
i found this one its a 20ga and its green for 3in and yelllow untill it goes into shrink wrap, sry for the quality my hands were shaking the garage is cold


02-11-2007, 09:53 AM
That's the bundle of wires that have the fusible links. I believe there are 3 or more of them. When a link melts, it usually looks like it. You may have to dig around the group of wires to find all of them.

02-11-2007, 01:18 PM
It must be buried in a wire sleeve some where I doubt thats the prob I think melted wire would stand out.

02-11-2007, 03:00 PM
It must be buried in a wire sleeve some where I doubt thats the prob I think melted wire would stand out.

My 90 melted the fusible link for the fan when the fan motor burned out. On mine the fusible link is a 16ga and you will find it connected to the starter relay on the driver side inner panel. Trace the wire and you will find the link about 4 or 5 inches from the relay. I believe it is a black wire section connected to a yellow wire. If you follow the yellow wire it will lead to the IRCM. It will probably be obvious if the link is melted, however they can separate without showing on the shielding but usually you can feel the soft center if blown. Good luck. John

02-11-2007, 05:24 PM
Ok Ill check it out again the one in the pic I found must be for the starter or something.

02-16-2007, 01:20 PM
OK guys Im lost I pulled out the battery and the fusebox and cut back all the sleves. AnnivSpeCpe, I pulled the connector apart (circled) that connected the black and yellow wire and traced the yellow wire about 1.5 ft to were the harness spreads off by the powersteering pump back to the fire wall. I cant find any links at all. The othe end of the connector the black part, goes right were the other fueable link and the white wire are going.


02-16-2007, 01:46 PM
According to my 89 EVTM you are looking at the correct fusable link for the fan motor.....

Does your fan come on if you unplug the ECT?

02-16-2007, 01:56 PM
let me hook my battery up and ill give it a try. The ECT is only 4 months old probably auto zone trash

02-16-2007, 02:33 PM
Ok the fuesable link I did find and circled is good and I unpluged the ECT and it didnt change anything.

02-16-2007, 06:37 PM
hey man i bet ya anything its the fuseable link that went...my 90's rad fan went and i put the new fan in and still couldnt get it to work...i tryed almost everything you tried and it still wouldnt turn on .... so i called a bud and he found the link for me..mine was a blue wire on the solinoid between the batt and fusebox...it cost like 3 bucks to get the stuff to fix it

02-17-2007, 12:43 PM
Ok well the green and yellow fuseable link must not be it then since its 20ga and the fan one, where ever it is, is sposed to be 16ga. Ill take a look for this blue one you speak of in a few min but if anyone has a pic I would greatly appriciate it.

02-17-2007, 04:14 PM
I dont have a single blue wire anywhere in that area now after the years im sure one could have faded but I coulnt locate one. The green one I took the picture of is 20ga fuseable link A The one for the fan is 16ga fuseable link B, Which is MIA, IM beginning to think ford threw theses anywhere on this wire and not just behind the battery by the fuse box because I would have found it by now. Is there any wire I can test for power By the ircm that would let me know that my fuseable even bad.

02-17-2007, 06:20 PM
Ok the fuseable link is good where ever it is. These are results after testing 2 IRCM's


#'s 3 and 4 boh have power going into the IRCM with key on and off..... #'s 1 and 2 have no power with key on or off with defrost or ac on.

02-17-2007, 07:06 PM
I hate to do it in the middle of winter but would cutting the 14 wire and splicing it to the 17 make the fan run in the cars as in condition.

02-17-2007, 10:53 PM
I am not sure about that....

Cutting the #14 wire will cause the slow speed fan to come on.....

At this time of year, it will take a very long time for your SC to get to normal operating temperature.....

Maybe you got 2 bad IRCMs.....:rolleyes:

Are you sure the IRCMs you used were the same part #s as the original one on your SC?

02-18-2007, 01:36 AM
I changed the original one out with a new motorcraft unit about 6 years ago and it wasnt the cause of the problem i was having and i just left it in there. The when this started acting up i plugged the original one back in and still no fan. and the #'s match

02-18-2007, 10:18 AM
Make sure you actually have the engine fully warmed up and running (not just key-on) while checking for voltages.

While the engine is running, turn on the A/C and then check pin #14 on the IRCM:

-If you have ~12V @ this pin you are OK.
-If you have < 3V, then you have a short on that wire somewhere.
(or the EEC is faulty, which I highly doubt)

If this circuit checks out OK, re-check pins 3/4 at the IRCM with everything plugged in. *NOTE* Open-circuit voltage checks often miss burned up fuseable links.

XR7 Dave
02-18-2007, 03:50 PM
Paul is correct, the car must be running for the fan to come on and switching the AC on will only energize the fan if the system is charged. If the system is not charged then you can jumper the pressure switch on the AC dryer to kick the AC on.

XR7 Dave
02-18-2007, 03:56 PM
BTW, here are your fusible links.....

02-19-2007, 10:59 AM
Do you have heat? My car is doing the same thing. Yesterday, I noticed at idle there is very little heat and the fan will not turn on. If I increase the rpm's, the air coming out of the vents will get hotter and the fan will turn on. So either my car is low on coolant or my pump doesn't circulate enough coolant at idle. I'm leaning/ hoping for the first senario since I recently cleaned out my reservoir and didn't refill it completley.

02-19-2007, 01:29 PM
Yes it blows hot the blower motor does seem to pick up some speed when I take off, I think its because of the underdrives.

02-19-2007, 05:56 PM
Ok well I was leaving work and I had the car warmed up but at the shop I only had a test light, not a volt meter. Im not sure whether it lights up when theres power or mabey it lights up if theres only 12v +. Any way Im stumped, I turned on the defrost and my freon is low but the compressor kicks on and off.(im getting it refiled tommorow) So I checked #'s 1,2,and 3. All had power. Now going by my diagram if 1,and 2 have power the low speed fan should be on:confused: I tested all these while the compressor was running BTW. As for the #14 wire it had no power at any time at all. Like a said I dont know about the test light, #14 might have had power just not 12v. Therefore having a short as mentioned. Ill try to get a volt meter on it tommorow. Any thoughts?

02-19-2007, 10:01 PM
Where does 14 run to so I can mabey trace down this short?

02-19-2007, 10:32 PM
Now going by my diagram if 1,and 2 have power the low speed fan should be onCorrect. This means you have an "open circuit" from the IRCM to the fan. In this case the most likely culprit is a burnt-up connector (where the fan plugs into the harness).

As for the #14 wire it had no power at any time at all. Like a said I dont know about the test light, #14 might have had power just not 12v.The test light is too much of a load for the "voltage inverter" circuit inside the IRCM. What you were doing is pulling down the voltage on that pin, and effectively shutting off the fan relay.

This circuit works backwards; +12V on pin 14 turns the fan on, grounding out the pin shuts the fan off. (the +12V on pin 14 is supplied by the IRCM itself) The EEC turns the fan 'off' by switching pin 14 to ground, or turns it 'on' by leaving it floating (disconnected) in which case pin 14 rises back up to +12V. I believe it's designed this way for a good reason.. in case of circuit failure the default state for the fan is 'on' instead of 'off'.

02-21-2007, 06:34 PM
Well I got fed up and took it to a ford dealer, Only $600 less parts :rolleyes: Turned out that the IRCM ECC and ECt went bad all at the same time, well thats the dealer told me..................j/k:p Well I recharged the ac and tested # 14 and it had 14v so I knew I had another prob. Then I tested the wires up to the connector all had juice, fan side of connector no juice, So I hit it with some electronics cleaner bada bing bada boom fan:eek: Man I hate electronics:o

02-22-2007, 10:45 AM
Sometimes it's the easy fixes that make it all worth while......:rolleyes:

02-22-2007, 03:06 PM
yea lol:rolleyes: ... Ill probably clean it a few more times to make sure I get all the stuff off. Any type of electrical greese I should use to prevent the corrosion?