HELP...Studder under Acceleration at high load...HELP

greenwood_60

Registered User
My new SC has developed a bit of a studder under acceleration. Studder doesn't quite describe it. It is repeating studders making acceleration very jerky. It is very load dependant. I don't seem to get it in 1st or 2nd, but 3rd, 4th and 5th are increasingly worse. I figure I would replace the plugs and wires first, but I don't know a whole lot about newer cars. I just converted my '77 Lancia Scorpion from points to electronic ignition, thats the kind of cars I am use to working on.

Is there anything else to check? If I get a responce early enough today I can still make it out to the junkyard.

Thanks
Jason
 
Plugs and wires are usually the cause of bucking under a load. If that doesn't correct the problem, then test the fuel pressure. Weak fuel pump or clogged fuel filter can cause similar symptoms.

David
 
S s ssssss sounds lllllike uuu need a tttune up :D my car does it to some times mostly when it is damp or raining i no i need a tune up:)
 
Ok, thanks. Bucking describes exactly how it is acting. It is regardless of rpm, so thankfully I don't think it is the DIS module.

Is there anything special about the wires needed for the SC? Are they the same as the standard 3.8? What about plugs? I would hate to replace everything them and find out I used the wrong heat range. How hard is it to get to the plugs? What is the easiest procedure to get to them?

Thanks,
Jason
 
Plugs are a pain to change. The easiest way is to go from underneath. One of the hardest things about it is getting the boots off (they tend to stick after 15 years).

The wires are pretty cheap from Ford. Most people use Motorcraft or Autolite plugs and wires.
 
Excellant

I was just about to make a thread about the exact same issue. I just got my spark plugs replaced, used Motorcraft non-double platinum plugs and I'm now getting a "bucking" under high load. Usually ~7+ lbs of boost. The wires are OK, so I too am wondering what the problem is :confused:.

This car is going to break me with it's picky and often erratic behavior.
 
I was just about to make a thread about the exact same issue. I just got my spark plugs replaced, used Motorcraft non-double platinum plugs and I'm now getting a "bucking" under high load. Usually ~7+ lbs of boost. The wires are OK, so I too am wondering what the problem is :confused:.

This car is going to break me with it's picky and often erratic behavior.

If your using stock motorcraft wires, they can easily be damaged just by changing the plugs. I had it happen to me, when installing headers. IMO, best bang for the buck plug wires are Taylor Spiro Pro. Summit sells a direct replacement set of wires for around $45. These wires can be removed and reinstalled dozens of times without damaging the core.

http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?autofilter=1&part=TAY-74269&N=700+0&autoview=sku

The picture isn't correct, the wires in the link are actually red (same as on my car).

David
 
I was going to take your advise and order plugs and wires from summit... they even had "free" shipping. I got far enough through the checkout and saw there was a $10.95 "handling" charge... Handling my a$$. I hate crap like that.

Jason
 
I use KEM Plug Wires on mine. Good quality, and they have a much better mounting clip to the coil pack then the OE style.
 
I ordered Autolites from Advanced. $45ish. And NGK plugs.

Do I really need the ford tool to remove the wires?

Jason

Jason,

I've never heard of any tool for removing the wires, just use your hands. Suggest wearing a set of mechanic's gloves to protect your knuckles.

David
 
Can I just do a visual inspection of the wires to make sure they're OK? Also would the firing order cause this?

Jason, how much did you pay for the NGKs?
 
If the plug boots are really fused to the insulators (I mean no chance of pulling the thing off by hand), you can try vise-grips. I had to do that on my Mom's Windstar.
 
If it helps I solved my bucking issue when I noticed that the electrical wire plugging into my coil wasn't seated correctly due to the orange rubber seal not allowing it to properly connect. I took the seal out and re-connected the wire to the coil and BAM it ran netter than ever because I ended up replacing the plugs and wires trying to figure out what was so simple to begin with. I didn't need plugs and wires all I needed to do was properly connect the electrical wire to the coil. I was so miserable trying to figure out my problem but what a relief when it ran like a champ again. Anyway, maybe not your problem but I thought I would throw that in there, it bucked like nothing else when that connector wasn't seated correctly.

Bryce
 
NGKs were 2.99 each.

The tool I am refering to is in the Ford shop manual. But you guys have answered my question regarding that.

Was the bucking that was caused by the loose wire only durring higher load? Or all the time under acceleration?

Jason
 
NGKs were 2.99 each.

The tool I am refering to is in the Ford shop manual. But you guys have answered my question regarding that.

Was the bucking that was caused by the loose wire only durring higher load? Or all the time under acceleration?

Jason

It was noticeable more during higher load but would buck once in a while driving like and old lady.
 
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