93 SC Rebuild thread...

Jacob_Royer

SCCoA Member
Well as posted in another thread the bottom end of my SC has some major isues out of nowhere so i am in the process of pulling the motor to rebuild it (around 140k as far as i know the OD died at 110k) Anyway Orielly sells a crank kit for the SC and i am wondering if this is correct

Casting E9TE

is that an s/c crank?? it was the only one that called for a diffrent crank in a 3.8...
 
i dont know anything about the crank but i think your going to need it your problem sounds like the one i had, tore it down turns out (and i dont know how) the #4 connection rod bent in two directions and the piston smacked the crank. you might get lucky my crank didnt really suffer any damage beside one tiny pin point dimple that im not too worried about. if i were you id get the oil pan off and take a look
 
I spend all day messing with it yesterday... Got the SC,intercooler, return plenum, alternator, PS Pump acc brackets AC compressor fuel lines all the electrical connectors i could find and motor mounts and exhaust unhooked... Now all i need is to unbolt the bellhousing and tourque convertor.... GEEZE what a bunch of crap in the way to get the motor out of one of these things!! Now that i've gotten were i can actually see an engine under all that crap one of my suspicions was verified! the heads are reman and have an 04 date stamped into the front freeze plug. So if somone got it hot enough to actually need to replace the heads than i'd say the bottom end probably got in some major strain!! So far i'm going to need an alerternator (alot of play in pulley) PS pump (1/8 " end play in shaft) water pump (was going to replace it anyway) PS pulley (tore the sh** out of it with the pulley puller) motor mounts (the oil filter was rubbing!!).. SC snout coupler??? the SC has some play in it that feels like its being absorbed by a really weak spring is this what that is caused by?? Also if i pick up a dremel is there anything i can hit on the heads and blower to make a bit more power easily while i hav everything out??? Also what about the inlet plenum?
 
Well, you can't really port the middle of the intake plenum, and you can't port the middle of the IC tubes. Here is what I am in the middle of: clean up the bad casting that left a lip just inside the return plenum, expand slightly and match up the intake plenum and SC inlet (make sure you leave some lip to seal), smooth the radii in the lower intake (as done in the MN12performance write-up) and transition the intake plenum to match my 75mm throttle body. If you want to go farther, you can port-match the heads and lower intake manifold. I think that's about it, unless you want to tear into the heads.
 
Sure, a little. How much depends on how misaligned they are. I did a calculation on the lip I removed from the return plenum. It didn't look like much, but it calc'ed out to about 3% of the total area of the opening. 3% free is nice.
 
Well i finally got the motor out (PITA) got it on the stand and got the crank and rod caps all off looks like the #4 rod bearing was the culprit... whole thing shows copper and the bearing won't sit in the cap properly but a bearing out of any of the other rod journals will fit fine its like somone squeezed it or it shrank.... Going to finish tearing it all apart the next couple days and take it the the machine shop friday.. getting the following done

block magnafluxed and dipped
new freeze plugs installed
cam bearings installed
CYL's Honed
Crank turned
rods reconditioned

Gonna run $200 and the shop comes highly recomended..

Heads are reman's dated 04 so i am just goint to clean them and throw new valve stem seals in...

considering the following upgrades

Teflon IC gaskets (worth it???)
ARP Rod bolts
ARP Main Studs
ARP Head Studs(deffinately getting these)

Also I Want to run a new cam! What is a good grind for a daily driver somthing that will make more power but won't require a tune??? Also i'm gasket matching the:

Inlet plenum
Heads
Intake

Also I'm opening up the exhaust manifolds adding a magnaflow resonator and having catless downtubes made and a 2.5" midpipe put in... Already have a aluminum 5% pulley, CAI and an intercooler fan.... I'm hoping for 250/260+ rwhp! I don't know if i need more for this or not?? Anything else i should do while i have the motor out?? Mounts are getting changed for sure (one was broken) and thinking about a trans-go shift kit..... Also what mufflers sound good with the magnaflow resonator and no cats?
 
Also plan on getting an A-pillar guage pod and a REAL oil pressure, water temp and boost guage... the ford motorsport gauges in summit look really sexy but the price makes me think i'm going autometer....
 
Teflon IC gaskets are worth it, because they're only about $25, and they make it a lot easier to remove the pipes.

That's a great deal on machine work. $200 for all that? Wow.

You already have a 2.5" midpipe, by the way.

If you are looking for a cam, try Dave Dalke (XR7Dave). Or you can shop through SuperCoupePerformance.com.
 
Further inspection revealed a spun rod bearing on number 6.... still think the crank can be turned though.... Also there is nothing were the balance shaft is supposed to be??? arent all 3.8' supposed to have a balance shaft??
 
Further inspection revealed a spun rod bearing on number 6.... still think the crank can be turned though.... Also there is nothing were the balance shaft is supposed to be??? arent all 3.8' supposed to have a balance shaft??


Not this motor. They deleted it in the SC.

Nick
 
I think it was only in the FWD cars until about 1999, when it went into the Mustang. It was never in any version of the T-Bird, as far as I know.
 
Dave recomends this cam .491" lift and 215/220 I will most likely buy it from him possibly some more goodies... Is 250/265 RWHP possible with this cam and the mods i posted a couple posts back??
 
Dave recomends this cam .491" lift and 215/220

Can we run this w/o upgrading our springs?
How much does he get for them, b/c I looked at the stage 2 comp cams @ supercoupeperformance, and its recomended with better springs and runs $325.
Good luck with your rebuild, I expect I am not too far behind you, but I doubt I'll have any recently rebuilt parts.
 
What the heck is this funky torx (looking) bolt holding in my cam pos sensor? Also i pulled the timming cover with it still in is there any process for re-aligning it or do you even have too???? Dropped the block, cranks and rods off at the machine shop friday! Hopefully i can get everything else cleaned up and start on my porting this week...
 
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