SuperCharger Coupler?'s

Jimmy 2Coupes

SCCoA Member
I've done a search and I'm still not sure which coupler, solid or spring loaded, to get to fix the blower rattle on my 94. Which one do I need, who sell's them, and what else do I need to purchase for the job.

Here's a page I book marked awhile back selling snout rebuild kits w/coupler but it looks to be for GM applications. Anybody with an SC/XR7 use this kit with success? Check out link.

http://www.rollingperformance.com/
 
I've done a search and I'm still not sure which coupler, solid or spring loaded, to get to fix the blower rattle on my 94. Which one do I need, who sell's them, and what else do I need to purchase for the job.

i bought a green coupler like that one off of ebay for $20 and went to the chevy dealer and got 2 bottles of supercharger fluid and slapped mine together, it's quiet, tight and works great, no problems.:D
 
Jimmy,

Ive used this kit twice with great success. I used it on mine when I rebuilt it after the Shootout, and just recently rebuilt Jim C's blower with the same thing.

We used the solid couplers from the rollingperformance.com, the guy there was great to work with, and we got the two Snout bearing from Napa, C3 rated, and they were CHEAP!! I think they were SNK or something like that.

Either way, I liked the solid coupler, but not sure the advantages or disadvantages over the solid to spring loaded.

Mike
 
Jimmy, here is the coupler that I went with recently looks to be a nice piece.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Eato...003QQitemZ130085184152QQrdZ1QQsspagenameZWDVW

If you need bearings just find a local bearing dist. and buy from there. I usually get NSK or Timken bearings with a Chicago Rawhide seal for the snout. Make sure the are C3 rated open bearings. INA is the only manufacturer of the rear rotor bearings. The 2 snout bearings should only run about $6 each, the rear rotor bearings are about $5 each, and a new seal is around $8. Don't forget 2 bottles of GM fluid, its $6.50 a bottle just bought some yesterday.
 
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I have the snout off of a rebuilt MP2 on my blower that my friend gave me but I think I have the original coupler on it. It grinds like a S.O.B. at idle and is quite embarassing. I had someone ask me if my engine was shot.

If this will quiet it up then I'm going to order one. I had the blower apart back in July and I put it back together with new fluid and I made a front gasket out of copper permatex. It's not leaking. Also the front seal is good and not leaking.

I have been wanting to buy a 94/95 blower, but the problem is I'm on unemployment and I don't have much left over money at this point. So if I can spend $30 on my blower and an hour or two of my time to hold me by until I figure out if I'm approved on my medical waiver for the Air Force that'd be great. Then hopefully this summer once I'm in and stationed somewhere I can worry about upgrading the blower.
 
Thanks for all the responses guy's. This blowers been rattling every since I had it S-modeled by Magnuson Products some years back and it's time to quiet it down some. It's only got about 75,000 miles on it so I'm hoping the bearings are good. It only rattles after the car warms up and then only at idle so I'm hoping it's the coupler. The seal is good because I checked the fluid about a month ago and after just a few turns on the allen head bolt fluid started coming out so I tightened it right back down but I think I'll install a new seal anyway while I'm right there.:)
 
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I went with the cheep green one from Ebay for $20. I put one in my 90SC and my moms 98 GTP. No problems to report from them.
 
my SC makes noise too my Wynn Carter "Tbird88' texas thunderbirds.com ,
coupler is shot after 3 yrs,

it makes a galloping noise a chevy guy asked me whats that clanking clunking noise your engine shot/ I said No its the ponys galloping horeses need to run free and the blower case is packed full of them.
 
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