Coolant leak...?

Jeff Bratton

Registered User
Noticed a small puddle of coolant after stopping, coming back to the car is when I noticed it dripping. Got home and did some looking around, I've narrowed it down to, in beyond the passenger side of the Water pump. It looks like though it's coming from in behind the the water pump, like the timing cover. It's hard to really to pin point exactly where though. It leaks down around the crackshaft bracket.

There shouldn't be any coolant coming out of the timing cover should there? Wouldn't think so.

I changed my HG's (Both) 3 years ago, and I'm running 2.5" dual exhaust all the back.
I did not see any coolant or milky look in crankcase, and the exhaust doesn't smile like coolant. it does not look like it's coming from the front top corner of my HG neither, where the leak appears to be coming from and down around the crankshaft bracket. The problem is... there's just too much assy's in the way to really locate where this leak is coming from.

I'm at a loss.

Any suggestions would help!!

Thanks!
Jeff
 
Could be the intake/manifold gaskets, what are they and how did you install them? Might just need a bolt tightened, proceed carefully.
 
Could be the intake/manifold gaskets, what are they and how did you install them? Might just need a bolt tightened, proceed carefully.
The intake gasket I used was felpro blue (cork) 4 piece kit I believe. 2 of those are the two that go on the ends. I can check that and see if anything just needs tightening. Thanks.

Jeff B.
 
I had a similar problem,my coolant would leak around the timing cover and run down and 'puddle' on the cross member.Turned out the timing cover gasket was pooched......
 
How old is your water pump?
There is a weep hole in the bottom that will leak when the pump need replaced.
Sometimes the leak will be a dribble, that will turn into a flow.
 
Same thing happened to me.

Make that four for timing cover. I had the same thing, theres a passage on the upper passenger sid of the cover and the gasket lets go here, then it runs down between the block and ac bracket, collects at the crank and drips down the middle of the crossmember. It seems to be fairly common. It' a bit of a PITA to change to. When it happened to me I was at 150K, so I just ended up doing all the gaskets (figured the head gaskets would be done soon anyway, and judging by the look when I pulled it apart I was right ;) )

One other possibility is the intake manifold to cyl head gasket, although generally if it leaks, you will be burning antifreeze internally. If you did just do it, did you remeber to re-torque the intake bolts? They tend to loosen off a bit after torqueing and should be retorqued after 15 minutes or so to ensure proper torque.
 
One other possibility is the intake manifold to cyl head gasket, although generally if it leaks, you will be burning antifreeze internally. If you did just do it, did you remeber to re-torque the intake bolts? They tend to loosen off a bit after torqueing and should be retorqued after 15 minutes or so to ensure proper torque.

15 minutes after installing them? I wasn't aware of needing to do this! :confused:
 
could any of these leaks allow oil into the coolant? I have a black scum line around the water level in my coolant recovery tank. There's also fine black particles in my coolant. I think it may be something from the inside of my new radiator but i'm not sure. I also have a slight coolant leak around the front timing cover.
 
If the timing cover leaks internally then yes you can get coolant in the oil, I don't know about vice versa. You'd be losing coolant and even might spin a bearing.

It sounds like Jeffs timing cover gasket has a tear on the outer edge leaking outside the cover, but I'd change it asap because it's not going to get any better.
 
15 minutes after installing them? I wasn't aware of needing to do this! :confused:

I kid you not. You might get away with it, but it can happen. I suspect a lot fo people just over-torque right off, but if you torque to factory spec of 9-11 ft-lbs (i believe thats the intake torque without checking), and wait you may well find that if you go back after letting it sit, you will find the bolts are only at 7-8 ft-lbs. Actually went through this first time I rebuilt a SC way back. Was burning anti-freeze, asked around for ideas where it was coming from, had good compression, my buddy worked for an old machinist who had owned his own service and machine shop for over 30 years and he knew right away. He actually recommended whenever working with a Ford V engine to wait 15 minutes, then wait up to an hour and re-torque again if you want to be sure. When I took the blower back off I actualy set my torque wrench down to 5 lbs to see if they had loosened and then increased in 1 foot increments and sure enough, they were down a good 3 foot pounds from what I had torqued them. But since, I've found that as long as you give them 15 minutes and re-torque you never seem to have a problem. I usually snug them a couple pounds over torque as well.
 
Thanks to who all replied on this and giving me what sounds like what might be the problem: A leak on the upper pass. side of my timing chain cover gasket.

While I'm inside somewhat and have the timing chain cover off I'm going fourth and replacing my timing chain, and both upper/lower sprockets and all gaskets required. I only have 226k on the Bird.:eek:

Matt: Hey there! Glad to hear from you. I went to Autozone and got everything I need there. I appreciate the offer!

Hoping to get into the problem here sometime soon, now that the weather is breaking.

Jeff B.
 
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