what's the favorite??

BlkBirds

Registered User
I'm going to be putting my 5 spd car on the road (with any luck) late spring. The drive line has been sitting for many many moons (8 years???). 14,673 miles out of an 89. the motor is on the stand getting little goodies here and there, but i would love to know what the lubricants of choice are for the engine and trans. The car will likely get driven 4-5 months a year when I"m not flogging my bike:D
I also would like some advice on clutches. I can't imagine the stock clutch is worth much, but I'm not so sure I need to spend $350 on a Spec unit, either.
I found a rig on an e-bay store for $180 that claims to be a stage II good for "40% overstock". Now, my first concern here was, "overstock" rather than over stock. But who doesn't have the occasional typo???:D
Anyway-- poll time!!!
 
I use synthetic in all my cars.Pick you're brand syntec,royal purple,amsoil.redline.As far as the clutch goes I definetly go with a name brand unit and not some no name one due to the time and work involved with doing a clutch change.

Jay
 
thanks for the input

I was sort of planning on running mobile 1 in the motor, but didn't know if that's the best plan of attack for the tranny.

What sucks about the Spec unit? Prefer centerforce?
 
I would never use synthetic in a old car. Get a LUC clutch, use some GM syncromesh in the trans and 5w30 and call it a day.
 
i have no personal experience with this, but the problem some people have with the spec clutch is that the engagement is very sudden. This places al ot of stress on drive train components like 1/2 shafts and transmission tail housings. Spec has an option like the stage 2+ and the stage 3+ that supposedly provides better daily drivability and manageability than just the normal stage 2 or stage 3 clutches. if you care to order one you just add an F onto the end of the part # (ie. SF483 vs. SF483F). I bought a stage 3+ for my car, but it's not in yet. I'll be posting wbout how i like it when it's all completed.
 
I have had 3 types, centerforce broke, spec was too stiff on the peddle for a daily driver and for stock go with the stock clutch, LUC.
 
It's not that they suck, it's that they work too well. Maybe in a solid axle car with a 2-step. But on the SC you want to be able to slip the clutch out so you don't snap a half shaft, and it's hard to that on a spec clutch. I have heard positives and negatives on the centerforce but I'd be willing to try a dual friction. I have a LUK clutch in my SC. It works good and I can snap the pedal up quick on a high rpm 2-3 shift and it will chirp 3rd. Chirping 2nd is so easy I have to try not to do it.
 
Where did you get the LUK clutches? They don't list an application on there web site or on a distributor site??? Are they just a stock replacement, or will they handle mods. how much will stock handle, for that matter??
Thanks again for the help. Kurt
 
There aren't that many companies that make clutches for our cars. There are many who sell them but not so many who actually make them. For example, the AZ clutch is basically a SPEC SI. SPEC makes clutches for lots of companies.

I've used CF with lots of success over the years. In fact I've removed SPEC clutches for people who didn't like them and installed CF clutches. The people were always very impressed the the improved feel and reduced pedal effort.

SC's are one car that is not "under clutched" from the factory. I think Ford anticipated a lot of innexperienced drivers running 5spds for the first time when they set up the SC. The clutch in the car is very large and tough. IMO a factory replacement will be fine for anyone who does not drag race and/or doesn't put drag tires on the car.

My advice would be to look up www.summitracing.com and punch in these two part #'s:

CTF-CF360049
CTF-281226

And then go to the autoparts store of your choice and get a slave cylinder as they come with the TO bearing already installed for about $100. I always recommend changing the slave cylinder because after 15 years they aren't 100% reliable anymore. No sense buying a clutch kit with the TO bearing included as you'll always get one when you buy the slave cylinder.

Don't forget the rear main and pilot bearing while you are at it. If you have the flywheel surfaced make sure to check thickness. A shim will be required if more than .025" was taken from the surface.

Always check disc engagement on the transmission before installing. A sticky clutch disc will ruin your day every time. Also use a light film of moly grease on the splines. Works wonders.
 
XR7- On the part numbers you listed, is the pressure plate one that has the centrifugal weights on it? My brother was having problem with one that had the weights on it not allowing him to shift at high RPM's.

The pressure plate does not list the SC as one of the applications for that part, but it will work, right??
 
Thanks Dave! always nice to get veteran input and part numbers!! I may try to get a hold of you for some more Q's. For instance, do you know of anybody in MN that does a good job tuning sc's? It sounds like I'm going to need one.
 
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