Problem with ARP head studs

quick35th

Registered User
Guys on the motor that I took out of my 35th I found that it had ARP head studs installed on it rather then head bolts. Well I think the studs that are on it are for the chevy V6 since the tops of the studs are cut off to about where the nut is. Anyways my problem is that when I tried to loosening the nuts all that happend was the socket spun, I made sure that the socket fit without play but still all it did was spin on the nut. What am I doing wrong? What size socket am I supposed to use? If a socket doesn't work how am I going to pull the heads off this engine?

Shane
 
Im using the ARP studs made for the SC, with the Hex in the middle .. but the size for the nut was 16mm - a 5/8" might work. Not sure if they are the same, but the stud would be the same size so the nut should be also. But if youre stripping the nut, you may need to try something else.

- Dan
 
If you look closely at this pic you will see where the top of the studs were cut off. They are cut flush to the nuts.

100_0190.jpg


Shane
 
I tried both.

Whats the part number for the ARP head studs specifically for the sc?

Shane

Part number is : Ford 3.8L SC - 153-4001

They are probably SC studs if they are cut right off .. I only had a grind a 1/4" wide section on 2 of the flanges to clear the Exhaust manifold for the studs.

- Dan
 
You definitely have the 3.8 studs. Funny teh 2.8 chevy ones are a PERFECT fit though.And cheaper...

Shane

I;m thinking maybe the whole stud is turning on you..If not your definitely using wrong size socket..15mm rings a bell but unsure
 
Shane,

If the socket is spinning on the nut, then it's not the correct size socket or the socket is cracked and is spreading apart under a load. If the socket is correct size and isn't cracked, maybe your rachet or the extension is broken. If your using a breaker bar and the correct size socket, then I don't know what to tell you other than.... righty tighty & lefty loosy.

David
 
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Well I thought that I was using the correct socket. I am also using my impact gun to break them loose. I'll be heading over there in a little bit o try it again.

Shane
 
Well I thought that I was using the correct socket. I am also using my impact gun to break them loose. I'll be heading over there in a little bit o try it again.

Shane

Shane,

Use a breaker bar and a 1/2" drive 6 point socket....Wouldn't be suprised if the whole socket spinning on the nut problem was caused by using impact wrench with non-impact sockets.

David
 
One more thing..When unbolting aluminum heads and intakes and such..You should actually sequence your loosening to prevent warpage much like when you torque it all down
 
Shane,

Use a breaker bar and a 1/2" drive 6 point socket....Wouldn't be suprised if the whole socket spinning on the nut problem was caused by using impact wrench with non-impact sockets.

David

Hmm I am pretty sure that I did use a 1/2in impact socket originally. It was a six point socket so maybe a 12 point socket will work.

Anyways I am coming back right now from Jeg's headquarters with a set of ARP head studs for a chevy 2.8L. I am going to get the engine assembled tonight then sunday put it in the car. Cant wait to run it :)

Shane
 
They chevy studs work for sure, you just have to make sure the studs fit all the way down into the block. If necessary blow out the holes and make sure there is no junk in the bottom.

Only a 12 point socket will work on there. An impact shouldn't be necessary to get them off. It's probably only at 80lb/ft so a socket wrench should work just fine. But an impact is o.k, just with the right studs.

Like I said, the chevy studs are close....very close. So if you don't get them down all the way you might have an issue. I had trouble with one stud on my 90 and couldn't get it quite down (maybe a 1/4 turn) as far as the rest. I had to notch the washer for the manifold bolt to get it on there.
 
Well I tried a 14mm six and twelve point sockets in both 3/8 and 1/2 sizes, no go. All it does is spin on the nut and I was not using air this time around. I dont know what I should do now. Any ideas?

Shane
 
I used a standard 1/2 inch 12 point socket to install my studs because that was the only 12 point I had. I had no problems. My guess is that you have stripped out whatever grip you had on the nut by now though. At this point you may need to use your imagination to get that nut off. You have to replace the nut anyways by now, so see if you can grind off opposite sides of the nut and get a wrench on there to break it loose or just break the nut off the stud. Theres some special sockets you can buy to help get off a rounded nut also.
 
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Torch might help .. heat up the nut to expand it a little. Penetrating lube also .. but probably not going to do much good if they are really on there.

I would pick up a set of Stripped Bolt removal sockets. They are not very expensive and will come in handy. I had to use them on the factory head bolts for my SC engine and other engines head bolts .. you just hammer them onto the nut and the teeth dig into the nut / bolt, and then use a breaker bar and they will break loose.

- Dan
 
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