Running bad today briefly

ThunderDave

Registered User
I had my car try to crap out on me today. I was going along doing speed limit, 35 or so and it started running rough and shaking. Acted like it was skipping and had a loss of power. The gauges looked good, except the CEL was on and tach wasn't reading right, but it wasn't bouncing.

I pulled over to check it out and it all looked good. I cranked it again and it wa still doing it. I checked plug wires, coil pack, wiring harnesses, DIS, vacuum lines cam sensor, tps, iac and I couldn't find anything loose or bad. I tried cranking again and it fired up and ran normal. I wondering if the cam sensor is about to go. I didn't have my code reader with me so that didn't help any.

Could this be the cam sensor fixing to go bad? There was no wobble from the balancer and after it cranked back up and ran fine, I had no problems with it the rest of the way home.
 
It should have stored the code so you should be able to retreve it. It could just be the weather going from realy warm to cold so fast. Vapor lock
 
This is the first time I've had any problem with it since I got it running last June and it had been running great, so it took me by surprise when it started acting up. I'll check codes and see if it stored it.Thanks!
 
Buy her some bling.....;)

Maybe she doesn't like the spoiler.......:rolleyes:

Maybe she thinks it makes her butt look big......:p
 
me, too

Mine did that last year. It ran oddly for the rest of the day and then over the next week or so it started running fine. Never did figure it out. Maybe it was a virus and it got well.
 
I still haven't had a chance to check codes and it's been running fine till last night going to work. Started doing the same thing it was doing Friday and I pulled over to check it. Everything looked good, like before. Got in and cranked up and ran fine after that. Maybe the DIS is getting ready to let go. :confused: I'll try to get the codes checked tomorrow or Friday, if I can find my code reader.
 
I still haven't had a chance to check codes and it's been running fine till last night going to work. Started doing the same thing it was doing Friday and I pulled over to check it. Everything looked good, like before. Got in and cranked up and ran fine after that. Maybe the DIS is getting ready to let go. :confused: I'll try to get the codes checked tomorrow or Friday, if I can find my code reader.

Either the cam sensor or the DIS is going on you, but since it is happening intermittent, it is likely the DIS module. Every T-bird SC out there needs a new DIS at at least one point in its life. It's a telltale sign, the CEL comes on, tach cuts out, runs rough. Trying to start, it won't relay cam sig to ECM and you have to try starting a few ties while the ECM guesses which cylinder to fire etc. Then it'll just start running normal again for awhile. It will get more and more frequent as time goes on, til it completely gives out. The dis module is EXTREMELY sensitive to heat, so when you replace it make sure you follow the following steps :

Disconnect battery ground before installing

Use arctic silver heat sink grease on the base of the module. DO NOT use silicone dilectric or other types of grease as they will not work and your new module will fry.

Lightly sand the base of the module and mounting point on access bracket with a fine grit sandpaper to ensure smooth contact surfaces.

Apply a very light coat of arctic silver. Light coat. If there is any squeezing out the sides when oyu bolt the module on, you used to much. Clean it off and try again.

Bolt down module, DO NOT overtorque mount bolts. Plug in Module

Reconnect battery.

The other things that can cause the same symptoms are the cam sensor, or corrosion in side the wiring jacket on the connecting wires.
 
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I still haven't had a chance to check codes and it's been running fine till last night going to work. Started doing the same thing it was doing Friday and I pulled over to check it. Everything looked good, like before. Got in and cranked up and ran fine after that. Maybe the DIS is getting ready to let go. :confused: I'll try to get the codes checked tomorrow or Friday, if I can find my code reader.

If it just suddenly acted like it had no power, wasn't lurching and bucking, and the tach still worked, then the code you'll probably see is the one which indicates a coil circuit failure. Note: This does NOT mean that the coil pack is necessarily bad. Most likely, the culprit is the DIS/ICM.

If, rather, the tach started wavering up and down and the engine started bucking with any throttle, then the culprit is usually the cam sensor.. Unplug it! :cool: It will take a few attempts to start the car (key off betweens attempts) but the EEC will eventually guess the correct coil sequence and it will run fine.
 
Today I cranked it and it started out idling rough, CEL was on. I tried shutting it off and restarting it, but it continued to run bad. So I held the gas where the idle was around 1000 rpm and after about 30 seconds, I heard a loud click or snap and it went to running fine. I hope to get codes in the next day or two.
 
My crank sensor would gimp when the motor got up to temp. Also recieved a PIP sensor failure though, go figure....




just a thought.
 
Take your DIS to Auto Zone.....

They can check it out and tell you if it is good or bad.....

I just checked 4 of them I had here and one was bad......

Guess what......

It was the only aftermarket brand.....

Sorenson, I believe.......:rolleyes:
 
Take your DIS to Auto Zone.....

They can check it out and tell you if it is good or bad.....

I just checked 4 of them I had here and one was bad......

Guess what......

It was the only aftermarket brand.....

Sorenson, I believe.......:rolleyes:
I'm not too keen on aftermarket cam sensors either.. got 1 from the store last year for the red car and installed and sure-nuff, just this week... it crapped out and had the car bucking and lurching. I pulled over, turned the engine off and restarted and it ran fine. Same thing happened back in Jan, but that time, I just stopped on a side street and unplugged it and went on my way. Next time it happens, I'll unplug it until I can get a decent Motorcraft part. Based on my experience, the aftermarket cam sensors just seem to be crap. :rolleyes: This one isn't the only one thats given me problems.
 
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Spoiler looks great (CRUNCH! CRUNCH!):eek: I saw the same problem Eddie had with an aftermarket DIS a guy got down here bought...it was bad brand new from the box..:mad:
 
Got codes.:eek:

88, 10, 41, 48, 91. Seems like a lot, but I think 88, 41 & 91 are all connected. I don't know what the 10 is.
 
Well, I had gotten a new DIS from Advance (GP Sorensen) and had tracked down some Arctic Silver at Radio Shack and wouldn't ya know, the new DIS has a small rattle to it. :eek: :mad:

So back to Advance I go to exchange it before even trying it. I know they are funny about taking back electrical parts after they have been installed. They have to order it and should be here in the morning. What are the odds the next one will be bad too? :rolleyes:
 
If you got a whole string of codes related to ignition, either the DIS module is shot or there is a wire problem. Bet on the DIS module. BTW, most of the ones I've gotten had the stupid rattle in them, it's fairly common. I'm actually pretty sure there is only one or two companies that ACTUALLY manufacture the module, so whatever brand your getting, it's always the same ~~~~, different package.
 
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