Clutch troubles, need help!

quick35th

quick35th

Registered User
Guys I just replaced my stock clutch with a Centerforce Dual Friction clutch and now with the engine running I cant get the transmission into gear. What could be the problem? When I did the clutch I aligned the splines on the clutch disc with the engine like normal and I installed a new throwout bearing. I never dropped the transmission so none of the transmission lines have air in them. Anyone have an idea with what could be wrong with my SC?

Shane
 
Well, not being able to get into gear is probably a result of the input shaft rotating along with the engine at idle as opposed to NOT rotating so that you can actually get the shifter into gear. 2 possibilities I can think of.

1. the pilot bearing is damaged and binds up against the input shaft. If it's stuck there, it'll keep the input shaft spinning along with the flywheel at idle and your blockers won't stand a chance of stopping the input shaft from spinning.

2. the new clutch isn't disengaging enough and is thereby holding the input shaft to the flywheel. again, this would cause the input shaft to keep spinning along with the motor at idle. Again, this will just burn up your blockers trying to stop the rotational motion of the input shaft.

maybe the old clutch was worn out and very thin. also, the new clutch is probably thicker. (think of putting on new brake pads). Now, the clutch could need a proper bleeding. If that's the case, what was enough range of motion with the old clutch is now NOT enough range of motion with the new clutch. So, whereas the old clutch would disengage enough given the limited range of motion, the new clutch is too fat and the limited range of motion is just too... limited.

3. You should have purchased the SPEC clutch! just kidding. I like the way that kevlar grabs though.

so... you pulled the entire motor to change the clutch?
 
Could possibly my clutch problem be related to me using the old original flywheel? If so I can get a new stock one, that not a big deal really. I guess this time I'll just drop the transmission and go from that route. Maybe something got messed up when I was trying to bolt the transmission to the engine.

Shane
 
Like Mike was saying try to bleed the clutch at the slave cylinder to see if it will engage before you waste more hours of your time to pull either the engine or transmission again.
 
Did you put a new pilot bearing in it while you had it apart? Like Mike said that could be another possibility.

A trick that I use to get all of the air out of the lines is get an oil can like this:
Oil%20Can.jpg

And get a section of rubber hose that barely fits over the bleed screw, then crack the bleed screw and just pump the fluid up the lines from the bottom and once the fluid reaches the top(with the master cylinder dry) I tighten the bleed screw up and take the hose off of it. This is how i bled my explorer's clutch and the clutch in my brothers bronco II and it worked great.
 
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quick35th said:
Could possibly my clutch problem be related to me using the old original flywheel? If so I can get a new stock one, that not a big deal really. I guess this time I'll just drop the transmission and go from that route. Maybe something got messed up when I was trying to bolt the transmission to the engine.

Shane
Click to expand...

Yes, that's another one I forgot. It's the same deal as when the clutch isn't bled properly. It's not giving you enough compression on the pressure plate. So, you're thereby not getting enough engagement of the pressure plate, so you're not fully releasing from the flywheel.

Or, in a worst case scenario, you've burnt off the remaining material on the blocker and that's not helping you either? but that's a worst case scenario thing.

If you've got a buddy, have the buddy depress the clutch all the way while you're peeking in the hole in the bell-housing of the transmission. You'll be able to see the pressure plate being engaged by the throw-out bearing and whether or not it's fully disengaging the pressure plate.
 
I agree with the poster on the other thread, Mustangs are easier to work on. I can actually see stuff when I open my hood! :) And the spark plug change is a breeze even with 2 extra cylinders.

Good luck, glad it's you and not me! :)
 
I talked to Dalke on the phone the other day. He thinks that either there is a problem is the pilot bearing (which I did not replace :( ), the clutch disc is not slding across the input shaft smoothie. Lastly after I told him that the guy that I got this motor from had this very same peoblem after replacing the clutch Dalke suspected that the thrust bearing was bad :( :( :( :rolleyes:

So it looks like the motor might have to come out again (sigh)

Shane
 
I had similar problems when I went with Spec clutch.I couldn't get into any gear while the motor was running.I bled the clutch probably 10 times and still same problem than I changed the trow-out bearing and slave cylinder still same problem .Finally I put few shims[+- 1/8 of an inch] between the slave cylinder and the trans and problem was solved.I think the aftermarket clutches aren't perfectly same size as stock ones.
 
TwoToneThunder said:
why on earth would you pull the motor to change the throw out bearing?
removing the trans is not the hard
Click to expand...

No stupid :p , I have already replace the throwout bearing, I might have to replace the THRUST bearing. I am going to probably bleed the clutch tomorrow and see what happens.

Shane
 
When bleeding the clutch, give it a final quick snap Open-then-Shut really fast. I found that technique gives it a better "bleed". Opening it slowly and closing it slowly didn't give me as much engagement.
 
Well I found out today that my clutch issue has to do with the throw out bearing in the thrust bearing. I some how managed to drive the car around the block and when I came to a stop in front of my driveway I instinctly threw it in reverse which startled me. So I tried putting it in first again and it went right in gear. Then I tried all the other gears of which they went in easy. The engine was running like poo anyways and leaving a big smoke cloud out on the street so I was only somewhat happy at this point.

So after working on the car for a little while I wanted to take it around the block for a test drive, the clutch started acting up again. Seams like I have to pump the crap outa the clutch peddle before I can put it into gear with the engine running.

So I think the throw out bearing is to blame for my clutch issues. It was funny how when it was in gear while cranking the engine with the clutch peddle to the floor the car would move foward and backwords on its own.

So whats the likeliest cause, the throw out bearing or the clutch disc?

Shane
 
So tonight I jacked up my 35th and with the help of a friend I had them push on the clutch peddle while I watched threw the dust shield on the side of the bellhousing the throwout bearing push into the fingers on the pressure plate then release once the peddle was depressed. I would say that the throwout bearing moved a good 2-3 inches (I'm not good at eye balling measurements so the number might be inaccurate) from rest position to when the clutch was fully pressed to the floor. So I would say that there is likely no air in the lines and most likely neither the slave or master cylinders are bad.

So now what?

Shane
 
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