Glowing manifolds, no power

scbird94

Registered User
Was on highway, started to notice no power, very doggy. Pull over, manifolds glowing red, ECT was normal. Feels like restricted exhaust, however i have no cats.
CEL is not on, no vaccum leaks heard.
Car idles fine.

Havent looked into it as of yet.

Recently i replaced my cam and crank sensors, 10% od, has run fine for many miles since.
I know i am lean, any ideas?
 
Pull the plugs and inspect for heat damage. If they are bad, do a compression test. If you have been runing it lean, you might have burnt exhaust valves. You ight also want to chec timing.
 
When my IAC was bad it idled high and the manifolds would glow after about 2 minutes. I was letting a lot of air past the throttle body and the tps only gave idle voltage so it only supplied enough fuel for idle but had way to much air coming in. The maf saw all this air obviously but I think since the throttle was closed the tps said it was only at idle voltage and the EEC didn't change the fuel delivery.

Anyhow mine was the IAC. It also would "honk" or "cough" when I shut the engine off. I didn't drive it anywhere till I fixed it. Had to get the IAC from FORD because none of the parts stores list the right one for the SC they are all wrong.

Yours could be a weak fuel pump or clogged fuel filter. Check fuel pressure ASAP and post.
 
Advanced auto sells the correct IAC for the SC. I've had one on my SC for years without a problem.
 
Fuel pressure.

Car is sitting in gas station parking lot, got of work today had a couple mins so went to check out.

Fuel is normal (30-35 at idle, goes up with rpm) What is spec?

Checked compression on most accessible cylinder, 120 lbs after 3 puffs.

Disconnected both oxygen sensors, did not change.

Disconnected IAC, instantly killed. (good i assume?)

Had to leave her sit for today, will try again tom.

Want to try checking timing, however i cannot find the reference bracket by the balancer- may be missing.

Could a mis-adjusted crank sensor cause this condition?
 
Forgot to mention it revs up with only a little hesitation, does not bog badly until load is applied in any gear.
 
Car is sitting in gas station parking lot, got of work today had a couple mins so went to check out.

Fuel is normal (30-35 at idle, goes up with rpm) What is spec?

Checked compression on most accessible cylinder, 120 lbs after 3 puffs.

Disconnected both oxygen sensors, did not change.

Disconnected IAC, instantly killed. (good i assume?)

Had to leave her sit for today, will try again tom.

Want to try checking timing, however i cannot find the reference bracket by the balancer- may be missing.

Could a mis-adjusted crank sensor cause this condition?

Spec for fuel pressure is 35-40 KOEO, 30-40 when running.
 
Forgot to mention it revs up with only a little hesitation, does not bog badly until load is applied in any gear.

All signs of running very lean.
Something is telling the EEC less air is entering the engine than realized.
(so less fuel is applied) or bad fuel system.
SWAG(s)
1. Check codes
2. Bad MAF
3. a bad injector(S) or fuel system
4. vacuum leak
5. spark plug wires wrong firing order
6. Do a search on 'crank sensor' and 'cam sensor'
(maybe off 180 degrees)
7. Lastly, disconnect battery & reset EEC
 
Car is sitting in gas station parking lot, got of work today had a couple mins so went to check out.

Fuel is normal (30-35 at idle, goes up with rpm) What is spec?

Checked compression on most accessible cylinder, 120 lbs after 3 puffs.

Disconnected both oxygen sensors, did not change.

Disconnected IAC, instantly killed. (good i assume?)

Had to leave her sit for today, will try again tom.

Want to try checking timing, however i cannot find the reference bracket by the balancer- may be missing.

Could a mis-adjusted crank sensor cause this condition?

A few notes:

Check again for vacuum leaks. Don't forget to check vacum lines along the passenger side firewall and to the passenger PCV. Also remember to check the entire line from the Drivers PCV to the air inlet tube (this tends to pop out at the elbow to the tube, and also at the transition between the plastic under the snout and the rubber line to the tube right by the DIS mosule and fuel lines. Vacuum leaks are the biggest cause of lean mixtures.

Also, it could possibly be blocked up mufflers, it's rare, but I have seen mufflers get clogged up and restrict exhaust flow. I've seen one that was so bad on a mercedes, the truck carpetting actually caught fire from the heat on the muffler.



Run a scan and check for codes. Even if the CEL light isn't on, there may still be hard codes in memory that might help point you in the right direction. Take the 10 minutes and do a scan.


Check fuel pressure with a sudden throttle movement and load. See if the fuel pressure drops down when the motor gets loaded. It might be holding pressure at idle, but not flowing enough to make pressure during load. If the presure spikes down, replace the fuel filter andtry again. There could also be a problem with injectors.

There should be a timing mark on the crank pulley and degree markings on the plastic balancer/sensor splash shield. If you take off the shield, I believe there is another set of marks directly on the T.C. Disconnect the SPOUT and check base timing. I doubt it's a timing problem though, as it is unlikely you would have a lean mixture.

Another strong possibility here is a bad MAF sensor.

Somethings to think about and check.
 
I know whats wrong

This is a common problem! my car did the same thing also wynns from Texas tbirds. check you balancer that is what was wrong with mine and it had the same symptoms that you are saying I could be wrong but what would it hurt to take a look at it. The way it was explained to me is the exhaust valves are open when the spark plug fires that means no power. also fire in the manifolds would make them glow. the balancer may have only moved a little but can cause a lot to happen. if I can help in any other way please email me at esgbalt@aol.com
 
How can i test the MAF? What should the reading be at idle?
Is there a way to tell for sure if the HB is bad? I really dont want to put a BHJ in without knowing for sure, you know?
Would a HB typically go lean or rich...
 
Last edited:
Update on problem.

Well, finally checked it out decent today and got nowhere.

Fuel pressure is NOT dropping off when bog occurs. KEOR test results with 412, KOEO gives me a 121

I notice a wobble in HB and Crank pulley, could crank sensor be getting an incorrect reading?

Some of the data at idle is as follows

IAT 100 degrees (outside temp only 60?)
Baro 14
MAF Voltage at .84
EGR .57v
Spark advance 28
O2 sensors are cycling normally.
Fuel pulse 2.92-2.7 msec

All these readings are at idle, problem is normally off idle and engine is loaded. Can i snapshot with this OBD 1 system?
 
MAF reading is fine. Highly suspect of the HB. They have been known to turn on the hub after splitting in 2 thereby retarding the timing. Low power and glowing exhaust are classic symptoms of a cracked balancer.
 
wow

MAF reading is fine. Highly suspect of the HB. They have been known to turn on the hub after splitting in 2 thereby retarding the timing. Low power and glowing exhaust are classic symptoms of a cracked balancer.

thanks Dave for a minute I thought no one was listening to me
 
Those are the same symptoms I had when my fuel pump would intermittently screw up. Ended up being a bad plug at the gastank..

Checking the balancer however should be easy enough. If yours was so far gobe as to crack and spin on the hub it should be very noticable
 
I took the serp belts off, move pulley around by hand, seems firm. can turn engine back and forth with no play from balancer. However as i stated before i do notice a wobble while the engine is running. I am going to pull the balancer off to take a good look at it.

Took maf off and apart today and there wasnt even a speck of dirt on the filaments. I was really hoping to find a big black gob of something so i could clean it off and drive my damn car.
 
I took the serp belts off, move pulley around by hand, seems firm. can turn engine back and forth with no play from balancer. However as i stated before i do notice a wobble while the engine is running. I am going to pull the balancer off to take a good look at it.

Took maf off and apart today and there wasnt even a speck of dirt on the filaments. I was really hoping to find a big black gob of something so i could clean it off and drive my damn car.

If you take the balancer off, better plan on ordering up a new one as I hear its way bad to use a used one.
 
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