Crappy head gaskets???

Jacob_Royer

SCCoA Member
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These are the upper gaskets that came back from the machine shop... They are dana but don't look to great to me are these na gaskets?? the lower set is felpro permatourque?? why this stuff for the top? should i just buy some felpro gaskets???


Here is the head bolts they don't look real awesome eaither...
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And intake gasket (note the halfway done port job....)
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Those are graphite head gaskets..There was a time when they were the gasket to get...I reccomend however you get ARp head studs for a 2.8 chevy and forget about using those headbolts altogether
 
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So the gaskets are good to go... What about my porting job? i'm considering the far left intake port in the pic done... is that good enough?
 
yeah get some, fel-pro's the right ones for these cars... those are for 1988 3.8l.... its safe to say, that if you do put those on, you will probably end up doing the job again real soon...
 
The graphite head gaskets are factory replacement. Down side to them is that the coolant passage being so close to the fire ring on the rear cylinders eventually deforms the gasket material and migrates too the cooling ring.

It takes time, but if you keep your coolant up to date so that corrosion doesn't occur, they can last well over 100,000 miles.

If you have the motor out it would have been a better deal to have the machine shop clean up the factory deck surface getting it even smoother. not all shops can do this, but it's worth it to find one that can. Then do the same for the heads. That'll let you be confident in running the MLS head gaskets which shouldn't have the deforming issue by the coolant port.

It's worth it to gasket match the intake side. Make sure you do the heads and the lower intake manifold.

If you have any thoughts of pulling the heads in the future, the ARP studs are a good investment but are not required if you don't plan on pulling them on purpose and are just doing a stock rebuild.
 
If you have any thoughts of pulling the heads in the future, the ARP studs are a good investment but are not required if you don't plan on pulling them on purpose and are just doing a stock rebuild.

How many people actuallly have teh rioght equipment to properly torque torque to yeild bolts...Thats the main reason I always reccomend studs besides being just better..For under $100 its a great investment
 
You mean a Torque wrench ?? :cool: You need that even if you use studs.

As for the Torque to Yield bolts pictured .. the box says they are a Quality Head Bolt Kit .. :D

- Dan
 
You mean a Torque wrench ?? You need that even if you use studs.

As for the Torque to Yield bolts pictured .. the box says they are a Quality Head Bolt Kit ..

You need more then just a torque wrench to properly use torque to yeild bolts....Seriously
 
To do torque to yield bolts PROPERLY you should use a torque wrench angle indicator AND a torque wrench. The final values are given in degrees so you need an accurate way to measure those angles. Otherwise you are guessing.
 
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