aod Q's

P

Paulio91184

Registered User
hey guys a few questions about the aod.

1. what is a non lockup converter? and will it kill gas mileage on my daily driver sc?
2. what will a shift kit do for me?

3 some other good mod suggestions

thanks for the help, i've always had 5 speeds and i don't know a thing about aods
Paul
 
Paulio91184 said:
hey guys a few questions about the aod.

1. what is a non lockup converter? and will it kill gas mileage on my daily driver sc?
2. what will a shift kit do for me?

3 some other good mod suggestions

thanks for the help, i've always had 5 speeds and i don't know a thing about aods
Paul
Click to expand...

The stock AOD actually uses a direct drive converter. Which is a different way of coupling the shell of the converter to the final drive gear. A locking converter has an internal clutch that serves the same purpose.

A non-locking converter usually has a higher stall speed which means the engine will rev higher before full torque is delivered. Usually, a non-locking converter will use more gas due to slippage. To work on an AOD tranny, it would still have to connect to and turn the direct shaft, else NO 3rd or OD gear. However, it could still connect with fluid, so I can see it working just fine. Here's the thing to look at though.. the AOD at cruising speed keeps the engine between 1000 - 2000 RPM. Most non-locking converters are not at their stall rating at that speed, so it means that even in O/D, there would be a less than complete coupling.. which means lower gas mileage. Due to the extra heat produces, an auxillary trans oil cooler is a must.

A shift kit can change the shift points and firm up the shifts making the car sportier to drive.

Other mods usually are to make it stronger to handle more torque, such as a wider OD band, hardened direct shaft, swapping the 1 way roller clutch for a mechanical diode.
 
If you have the ground clearance, add a deep aluminum pan. Some can add up to 4 quarts of oil and have cooling fins built in. The thick aluminum pan also rigids up the trans. better than a steel pan for less flex.

Bad thing is the added depth could result in a big headache if you hit something with it.

Replace the driveshaft with a lighter aluminum shaft. It is the equivalent of adding 5 to 10 hp through less parasitic loss.
 
Unless your car is really low or you ocassionally off-road your car, you won't have problems hitting the deeper pan. I've never heard of any SC owner hitting their deep pan, although I'm sure it might be possible to hit it. I've been running a deep pan for about 10 years and have never hit the pan, even when hitting some really bad construction in PA that I actually bottomed out my car :eek:
 
Kurt, my brother had just had one installed on his 89 a day before we hit a deepsink in the road. Unfortunately in the center of it was a man hole raised substanially above and bang. Sheered of several of the fins and put a huge fracture in the pan. Still have it unrepaired as of yet.
 
It was probably a once in a lifetime incident. The odds of the car bottoming out and hitting something like a manhole cover are probably small but damn in can happen.

The pan is fixable, just needs to have the crack welded up and cleaned up. I have had a deep B&M on my LX for2 months now.
 
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