Est. time on plug change??

FineLineMtrSprt

Registered User
To all you guys who have done your own plugs...how long did it take you? Did you go from the top...bottom...or both? Let me know i may have to tackle this one myself..although it will suck with my bigg a** meathooks lol:D

Just let me know guys,

Thanks...Vince
 
well, it took me 2 hours 2 pull 5 plugs out, all from the top. and i unbolted the a/c compressor and moved it outta the way along with the intake.

i got the #4 plug from the bottom, pretty easily.

this is just my experience. other ppl can do it all from the top or all from the bottom. i think it depends on the size of your arms, hands, fingers, etc. and how flexible u can be.

good luck
 
OK cool thanks just trying to get an idea. My buddy who used to work on my Lightning got a plug swap on those down to about an hour...he looked under the hood of my SC and went..umm yeah screw you lol. So we will see what happens


Also when you say intake..you talking the blower? Or the intercooler tubes?
 
30 minutes, tops. The ones I could get from the top, I get from the top, the rest from the bottom. Rear two on the passenger side are under for sure. Front one is on top.

Driver side, probably mostly under. I usually recall once I need to start doing it.
 
Wheels on or off? I usually have to take the wheels off to get the plugs on my 01 Ford Ranger 4x4 4.0.
 
3 years and 15,000 bucks.

Because when you pull the seats out to get to the spark plug release pull cord, you'll find the oil levels in the seat belt's are low and then you'll have to pull the heads and unplug the tube that feeds the speedo and then overflows into the seat belts. Since you have the hood off to get at those tubes you'll wanna go ahead and pull the tranny...Really, it's easy now cause the hoods off...

Seriously call NASA and they'll help, Steven Hawking will come over and make coffee and talk you through it in more detail.

I pull the throttle body off cause I can't snake my hand through..And since my throttle body is stuck to the rear plenum it's easier to pull three bolts and pull off the SC itself....No really.

And now with a Magnum FMIC I pull 4 clamps off and can do the drivers side plugs in 5 minutes.

Plugs make me happy..
 
30 minutes, tops. The ones I could get from the top, I get from the top, the rest from the bottom. Rear two on the passenger side are under for sure. Front one is on top.

Driver side, probably mostly under. I usually recall once I need to start doing it.

mike, u gotta remember if he's never done an SC plug change before, its gonna take longer than 30 mins.

i left the SC, IC tubes, and TB one. just took off the filter, mafs, and tube.

just do what u can from the top and get the rest from the bottom.
 
I started with the steps at the 35th anniversary tbird site and then went with what I could do. Never considered pulling a wheel off.

#1 start with a cold motor.
#2 be willing to get your forearm scratched up.
#3 use an open end wrench on the back of the spark plug socket
#4 use a flex head offset handle socket wrench (craftsman #44835)
#5 Use a dielectric lube on spark plug boots.

You get used to where your hands go and what combination of what to use after you change plus 2 or 3 times. Of course this has been on my 90. 93 I did once but can't recall and it's been down since that year. The position of stuff changed from 92 to 93 so it might be a little different.
 
I just remembered i gotta do motor mounts on this thing before i can do plugs...well WHILE im doing the plugs...i think my pass. side isnt just blown...its SEVERLY blown. If i dont have the ride controls et on firm...and i hit a decent pothole or bump or train tracks...i get a nasty thud.clunk which i think is the engine moving around.
 
I just remembered i gotta do motor mounts on this thing before i can do plugs...well WHILE im doing the plugs...i think my pass. side isnt just blown...its SEVERLY blown. If i dont have the ride controls et on firm...and i hit a decent pothole or bump or train tracks...i get a nasty thud.clunk which i think is the engine moving around.

Don't let that go too long. If not right away, usually soon after the mount goes the engine can get low enough to rub the oil pan on the cross member. The aluminum pan is quite porous so the more it rubs, the more likely it is to crack or start leaking. Welding them up is near impossible, leaving you with just JB Weld or other epoxy.
 
Yeah thats what im afraid of..it already wore the hole in my other intake tube. It was rubbing against the shock tower. I NEED to get them done this week...im thinking im going to have to disconnect the intooler to plenum tube since im going to have to jack the engine up and i dont wanna risk cracking the tube.
 
I really dont know how long it takes I just do them along with normal maintanance you know oil & filter changes. headgaskets etc.:eek:
 
I really dont know how long it takes I just do them along with normal maintanance you know oil & filter changes. headgaskets etc.:eek:

Yup, whenever I do an oil change, I just rebuild the front end again while it's up on stands ;)
 
After the motor mounts only thing really left on the front end to be changed are tie rods ends...which mine are fine....and front shocks...with i might actually have one KINDA goin bad but ill know better when the mounts are in. Ive already done upper and lower control arms and new sway bar links.
 
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