PDA

View Full Version : SC problems



funkbuster
04-29-2007, 01:11 PM
HEy. I have been on the forums a while now, been looking into getting me a SC. I found one near me, a lady is asking $1200 for it. It looks good in and out, and runs great but it has a few problems I was hopeing you guys/gals could help me with. 1st problem is the brake pedal is very stiff, it feels like they are not beeing power assisted. It runs great, we ran it up the road and back, and it runs like a top, minus 2nd gear, sencros are gone. But, she said after about 30miles of driving it will start to feel like it is running out of gas, and the boost guage will jump around and the tach will act funny. Then after about 5 minutes it will clear out and run fine. What could be causing the problem with the brakes and power loss? I would really like to get the car if these are not going to be too hard to fix.

Thanks for any help in advance

Chase

Flex
04-29-2007, 01:38 PM
Chase,

The brakes could be the result of a few things. Is the ABS light on? Is it flashing?

My car had stiff pedal with no brakes and it was an ABS relay on the passenger firewall. On some cars the accumulator on the brake assembly goes bad.

The other problem may be the DIS. Those are the symptoms my brother's car had at first. Progressively got worse to where it always ran like it was out of fuel. Replaced the DIS and it ran like new again.

funkbuster
04-29-2007, 02:41 PM
With these problems does this car sound worth $1200. Also, about how much is a DIS and is it easy to replace?
Thanks
Chase

CougarXR/7
04-29-2007, 04:00 PM
At $1,200.oo it sounds good to me.

Change the DIS module?...........about ten maybe fifteen minutes start to finish.

Cost?, around $120.oo to $150.oo depending where you go.

Try Advance Auto Parts online, I got mine there.

funkbuster
04-30-2007, 09:31 AM
OK. So DIS is the ignition module? I work at Advance Auto, so I get a 20% discount on anything in the store. I looked last night at work and didnt see anything labled DIS so I wasnt sure what exactly I needed to look for.
Thanks for the help so far, I think I will call her today and set up a day to go get it.
Chase

ThunderDave
04-30-2007, 09:50 AM
I would say since you are probably gonna need a new DIS and maybe some brake work, offer her a grand and see if she'll take it. ;)

the-big-e
04-30-2007, 10:06 AM
OK. So DIS is the ignition module? I work at Advance Auto, so I get a 20% discount on anything in the store. I looked last night at work and didnt see anything labled DIS so I wasnt sure what exactly I needed to look for.
Thanks for the help so far, I think I will call her today and set up a day to go get it.
Chase

Look under ignition modules for thunderbird SCs......

They should have a picture of the module.....

funkbuster
04-30-2007, 10:16 AM
ok. I will try that. Also, with the brakes. How expensive is the accumulator and how hard would it be to replace. The pedal hardly gives any and it takes the car a while to slow down. That is the main reason I didnt pick it up yesterday, I think I should trailer it home so I dont wreck it before I make it back.
Thanks
Chase

ThunderDave
04-30-2007, 10:29 AM
If it's the accumulator ball, try www.priorreman.com

the-big-e
05-01-2007, 09:36 AM
I just bought and accumulator ball from Prior for my XR-7.......

$110.00 shipped.....

Before you get the accumulator, check the following.....

Make sure the pump motor is operating correctly.....

Sometimes the pump motor seal will fail and let brake fluid into the motor housing......:mad:

This causes corrosion and locks up the pump motor (I've had three of them, so far).....:mad:

With the key off, pump the brake pedal 10 - 15 times and then turn the key on but do not start the engine.....

You should hear the pump motor run for about 20 - 30 seconds and then it will LOAD UP and shut off.....

If your pump motor isn't running, apply direct current to it and see if that makes it run....

If that works, then you probably have a bad relay on the passenger side firewall.....

funkbuster
05-02-2007, 04:57 PM
update:

I pumped the pedal around 15-20 times with the key off. Turned the key on and you can hear the pump activating. It runs for a few seconds, then it shuts off. When it shuts off, you can feel it "pop" and you can feel this in the brake pedal. Also, the ABS light is on for a breif second when you start the car then it shuts off. Also, the switches in the driver's door werent hooked up, so I pulled the door panel off today, and the passenger window, and locks work, but the driver window wouldnt. I messed around and found 5 plugs in the door until I finally found 2 that match, pluged them in and the drivers window started working. I let it set there while I did some running. Got home, and now the darn thing wont budge. Any ideas?

Thanks for the help so far.
Chase

decipha
05-02-2007, 07:27 PM
could be the driver side switch going bad... remove the driver side switch and jump off the terminals see if it works.. could just be the switch going out

funkbuster
05-03-2007, 03:51 PM
OK. Today I drove the car around for a while. When I first got in it, the driver's side window switch was working. Car drives like a champ, only main problem with daily driving it is the brakes. Car only has 99k on it. I would really like to get these brakes fixed, kinda sux not being able to drive the car to its full pontential.

the-big-e
05-04-2007, 10:14 AM
Sounds like the pressure switch is bad......

After working on these troublesome :mad: units, I feel it is easier to just delete the whole system and go with a conventional braking system......

I am doing it on my silver 92 this weekend.....

funkbuster
05-04-2007, 04:49 PM
how hard is that and what does it include doing?

amcdv
05-04-2007, 05:56 PM
OK. So DIS is the ignition module? I work at Advance Auto, so I get a 20% discount on anything in the store. I looked last night at work and didnt see anything labled DIS so I wasnt sure what exactly I needed to look for.
Thanks for the help so far, I think I will call her today and set up a day to go get it.
Chase
I just took my ignition control module to Advance Auto parts here in Houston..they hooked it up to their machine and checked it..it was good. Guess It wouldn't hurt to check yours..since you work there anyways. amcdv

the-big-e
05-04-2007, 06:53 PM
how hard is that and what does it include doing?

I'll let you know when I git'er done.....:p

funkbuster
05-04-2007, 08:19 PM
Unfortunately our module tester hasnt worked in the year and a half Ive worked there.

K Eddie, let me know.

THE BIRDMAN
05-05-2007, 05:06 AM
To learn what's all involved with swapping to conventional brakes just run a search and you'll find plenty of info on it.It's easy to do I did it on my 91 SC the hardest part is bolting the booster in it's a tight fit.I've seen numerous different combos used to do it.I used a booster for a 91 lx t-bird and a master cylinder for a 93 crown vic with 4 wheel disc brakes.I actually bought the booster and m/c from advanced auto parts I paid like 130 (though some people use junkyard parts or cheaper parts.But I would spring atleast for a new booster cause it's a P.I.T.A to install)for the pair both lifetime and I went with the bendix m/c.You have to swap the booster pushrod out for a 1/4 inch bolt to get the correct length.But like I said everyone has different ways they did the swap and used parts from different cars.So do a search and see what set-up you'll want to use.If you end up wanting to run the same set up I have.And you have any questions about it let me know and I'll try to help you out.

Jay

the-big-e
05-05-2007, 12:10 PM
How much longer does the push rod bolt need to be......

The one out of the CV MC is about 1" long.....

90 sc
05-24-2007, 04:16 PM
:confused: I am having the same problems with my brakes, I put in a new relay and no luck. I jumped the relay out with ground and the pump started to run , My conclusion is I have a bad pressure switch. How do you replace it and where do I find it???

sdw
05-24-2007, 09:46 PM
i bought an XR7 without lurking this forum first and after all the grief and heartache I've been through i would offer this simple advise.

Make sure the body is in good shape! make sure there is no rust in the rockers.

Check underneath the rear seat on the wheel well for cracks and check the trunk pockets, (at least that what i call the pockets on each side of the truck at the rear), for rust.

i would also check underneath the carpets in the rear especially if the car has a sunroof. sometimes the drain hoses end up not draining.

If the body is excellent I would buy it hands down as the mechanical stuff is straight forward.

sean

the-big-e
05-25-2007, 09:12 AM
Well, we finally got the brakes switched out to conventional.....:D

It was a tight squeeze to get the booster in, but it is all in there and looks nice.....

We also installed a longer push rod.....

If you are planning on the change out, go ahead and get new or rebuilt parts......

I went through 3 j/y master cylinders berfore getting a rebuilt one from Advanced.....

How do I get the anti-lock light to go out?????

I pulled the brown relay and the grey relay and the light is still on.....:confused:

The next step is to pull the cluster and remove the bulb......:rolleyes: