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View Full Version : new engine new prob...cam sensor???



neverfastenough
04-30-2007, 10:24 AM
Well got the new engine running, and almost has 350 miles on it, on the highway I can get it as hard as I want with no probs, but from idle at a red light if I get on it, it just kinda bucks like its on a rev limiter. It cuts out very quickly and in a pattern. It does it so hard it actually chips the tires each buck. Autozone pulled codes and it came up dis failure, so I swapped it with another and I still have the problem, Il swap out the cam sensor today, anyone else have anyother ideas, Its a 90 auto.

Motohead
04-30-2007, 10:42 AM
Well got the new engine running, and almost has 350 miles on it, on the highway I can get it as hard as I want with no probs, but from idle at a red light if I get on it, it just kinda bucks like its on a rev limiter. It cuts out very quickly and in a pattern. It does it so hard it actually chips the tires each buck. Autozone pulled codes and it came up dis failure, so I swapped it with another and I still have the problem, Il swap out the cam sensor today, anyone else have anyother ideas, Its a 90 auto.

Check your block to body grounds if they are removed or loose they will cause intermitant stalling I had forgot about them on my last rebuild the car would run fine normally but when I nailed the gas from a stop (Motor would rock) I would loose the ground. The car would jump out of the hole then stall.

neverfastenough
04-30-2007, 10:54 AM
If I rememeber correctly, there is one on the back of the drivers head, and one on the pass side motor mount stud. Am I missing any? The bucking is so uniform and steady, I couldnt see it being a ground, but I hope its that simple

Mike Puckett
04-30-2007, 11:42 AM
You may also have a spark plug boot that is not seated onto the plug completely. Make sure that they are all "clicked" onto the plugs. I tend to have a problem like this whenever I've pulled plug boots off and don't reseat one of them very well. The boot may feel tight but the angle I'm pushing it at misaligns the boot slightly and it won't go on completely. When in doubt I unplug it and reseat it again feeling for the "click". I've had this happen with your symptoms many times. It's especially noticable accelerating around tight curves but not so much at highway speeds.

neverfastenough
05-01-2007, 10:28 AM
well havent fixed it yet, but it has gotten worse, any bump or forward acceleration causes it to cut out to the point of stalling, reverse on the other hand I can get on it slightly harder, so I am assuming the ground on the back of the drivers head is loose and upon accel it falls back. How many block to frame grounds are there, btw all plug wires are tight, any other ideas.

Mike Puckett
05-01-2007, 11:43 AM
My 90 drag racer has 3 plus the battery negative cable. There are 2 on the back side of the drivers side cyl head where the fuel rail bolts on. I have to reach them from underneath the car. One is from the wiring harness and the other is from the firewall. There is one more on the passenger side front corner from the block to the chassis.

Motohead
05-02-2007, 05:18 PM
well havent fixed it yet, but it has gotten worse, any bump or forward acceleration causes it to cut out to the point of stalling, reverse on the other hand I can get on it slightly harder, so I am assuming the ground on the back of the drivers head is loose and upon accel it falls back. How many block to frame grounds are there, btw all plug wires are tight, any other ideas.

I just added a peace of 12 gague wire from the blower top bolt to the front core support where the bat body ground strap connects :problem fixed

decipha
05-02-2007, 07:19 PM
it might sound dumb but have you checked your vac lines too? may have a vac leak somewhere