Cam installation

kenewagner

Registered User
I have done some searching and have not found a step by step breakdown for installing a cam. The manual is not the clearest instructions I have ever read. I can weld and fabricate almost anything but have never installed a cam in a car before. Tips and things to avoid would be nice also or direct me to a past thread. I have the heads, water pump, accesesories brackets all off. I still have the balancer, crank sensor, cam sensor and timing chain cover yet to be remove. Thanks ;)

Ken
 
I have done some searching and have not found a step by step breakdown for installing a cam. The manual is not the clearest instructions I have ever read. I can weld and fabricate almost anything but have never installed a cam in a car before. Tips and things to avoid would be nice also or direct me to a past thread. I have the heads, water pump, accesesories brackets all off. I still have the balancer, crank sensor, cam sensor and timing chain cover yet to be remove. Thanks ;)

Ken

You will need a balancer remover installer rent it from autozone or the like.
Dont need to remove all the of the water pump bolts/studs only the ones that go tru the front cover. To remove the front cover "there are two bolts that go tru the oil pan that hold the cover on there, there is also a torx or HEX screw on the bottom right of the cover make sure you remove this one or you will break the cover, the other bolts and nuts are easy to remove".
You will see how everything goes toghether in there. You will need to pry the lower sprocket with a screwdriver or something with some leverage. Remove the push rods and rollers by removing the rocker arms.
You might want to install a new tensioner as it will come with the spring loaded and no need to reload. Just release the pin holding the spring. The cam will need ~~~ lube :eek: And dont forget the little washer/spacer that will be on the old cam. You will need to pry it off.
Torque settings should be on your manual.
Its not difficult just time consuming.
 
First things first, rent a harmonic balancer puller/installer from autozone.

Getting the timing gears to slide off is a little tricky. stick a pick through the small hole on the tensioner. this will keep you from having to reload the tensioner if you decide to re-use it. I just had someone help me take the timing gears off. It kinda takes two sets of hands to make it easier because they slide off together.

On your old cam there is a small washer that is very easy to forget about and just not see at all. Make the switch!! After you lubricate the bearings and all that good stuff your going to want to roll the cam in. Don't force it, the clearances are pretty tight so take your time. Other then that, it is pretty straight forward. Just make sure there is no binding as you start tightening things down. It should all be smooth.

chris
 
Last edited:
oh yeah, on each gear there is a small indentation, those two indentations on the gears will face each other at one point. Thats where you time it
 
Last edited:
Did you remove the old cam yet? Are you putting a new timing set on?

You'll need to get both timing gears loose to get the chain off. Use a small nail in a hole on the timing chain tensioner to hold it back when you pull the chain. you should be able to see the hole that'll work.

I used my 3 jaw puller to get the crank gear off. The chain is short enough you need to move both in concert to get things far enough off to remove it.

With the chain off you can remove the top gear and rest of the assembly to remove the old cam. You'll need to remove the key and spacer off the old cam. The spacer won't come off without the key first being off. I used a small brass drift and a hammer to knock the key out of the cam keyway.


Cam install..

Wash the cam with soap and water to remove any machining residue.

Use Cam lube or even the ARP Moly lube on the actual Journals that touch the bearings.

Use Lobe assembly lube on the cam lobes. Spread it on nice and good. If you are going to Degree the cam, leave it off the #1 exhaust and intake lobes as you'll need them clean to check with. You'll have to put the lube on after you install.

Carefully slide the cam into the bore, being careful not to nick the bearings. Install the CAM spacer that must go on before you install the key in the keyway.

Install the key into the keyway. (A brass drift can be used to tap it into place)

Install the retaining cover or thrust plate for the cam. Use blue loc-tite on the screws that hold the plate onto the block. Use assembly lube on both sides of the thrust plate.

Install the Spacer that is keyed. use assembly lube on both sides of this.

Install the timing Gear with lube.

You'll need to reinstall the crank gear. To do so I used the old gear (I replaced the timing set) and a big open end wrench to tap it back on. A big deep well socket might work if you don't have an old gear to work with. Do this in concert with the top gear and work to align the dots. The cam will have a mark and the crank gear has a mark and these two should be perfectly aligned. One tooth off can throw the cam off 10 degrees. (I think that's what Dave said)

Install the distributor gear with lube.

Install the washer and bolt, with lube, and use loc-tite on the cam bolt. 30lb/ft on the bolt.

Tada, cam is installed. Feel free to degree things if you wish. Then make sure you reset your cam position sensor properly once you have the balancer installed.
 
I havent pulled the old cam yet. Was gathering information. The manual was not real clear about instructions. It saids several times the oil pan has to be dropped. I was told by several guys that is not so. I have not received the new cam yet so I have some time to prep before installing. Nice write up though. Thanks for adding to my post Mike;)

Ken
 
I havent pulled the old cam yet. Was gathering information. The manual was not real clear about instructions. It saids several times the oil pan has to be dropped. I was told by several guys that is not so. I have not received the new cam yet so I have some time to prep before installing. Nice write up though. Thanks for adding to my post Mike;)

Ken

And whatever you do, don't weld the cam in :eek:

Just kidding with you :D
 
Also the chain tensioner will need to be compressed prior to installing the timing chain set. I found it easiest to remove tensioner system completely to do this. You will notice that hole in the tensioner circled in teh picture above. You compress the spring and stick a thin nail or awl in the hole to keep it compressed. Then reinstall. Put chain on...Then pull awl out. Make sure those two dots on the chain are lined up
 
...It saids several times the oil pan has to be dropped. I was told by several guys that is not so. ...

Perhaps on the standard 3.8, such a requirement exists, but for sure on the SC motors, the front of the oil pan is not bolted to the timing cover. It's just RTV holding it on.

If you don't have the timing cover off yet, don't forget about that alan bolt down on the lower corner of it, behind the oil filter.

This thread has some good tips and pictures on getting the timing cover off. I did exactly what Lonestar SC mentioned in his post:
http://www.sccoa.com/forums/showthread.php?t=60765&highlight=timing+cover+bolt
 
Back
Top