Anyone else having issues with solid mounts?

fastsc92

Registered User
I've been away for quite awhile, but I'm sure most people on here with recognize me. I've had the worst luck with solid motor and tranny mounts in my car since I've made the switch years ago. I'm managed to rip two motor mounts and two tranny mounts completely in half. Keep in mind that I have chassis braces everywhere under the car, all poly bushings, ect. I wouldn't consider my SC a HP freak, but it can throw down some 11 sec passes on a regular basis.

So my question is....anyone else having bad luck with these or is it just me? I don't know what else to replace them with. Any ideas? I've been away for a while so I'm not sure if someone makes a poly tranny mount or something.
 
i say you weld a piece of metal across the the driver side motor mount bracket to prevent the tab from lifting up! thats what i did! helps alot! use a zip tie as a shim so you dont weld the the metal plate too close to the tab!
 
By solid mounts do you mean solid rubber there Jay? I dont know if anyone else has had the same problem, but have you tried the same setup as Chuck W is selling?

Chris

P.S. 11s? High or low? Got any vid?
 
I have welded a tab across the mount and used a peice of delrin as an insulator. I'm really surprised that it's ripping the tranny mount. These were the mounts from MN12. The car is a 5-speed and it does have a few good launches at the track on slicks, but the half-shafts are stock and even those never snapped....

I'm not going to give out times just yet... I've been away for about 2 years and once the car is finished I'll explain the entire story (long) with pics.
 
Look in new products section. Chuck is running a group buy right now on his Poly solid motor mounts. I have them on the car and they feel great. I do no feel excessive vibrations and the engine is staying put. He makes his own brackets and seems to be a fail proof design.
 
I'm using the steel cased solid rubber motor mounts from SCP along with a custom torque strap. I've also got the solid rubber tranny mount, but don't remember who I got it from. So far so good.

David
 
I'm using the steel cased solid rubber motor mounts from SCP along with a custom torque strap. I've also got the solid rubber tranny mount, but don't remember who I got it from. So far so good.

David

I have solid mounts but my car never has had enough power to worry about it. Except for the occasional donut and the rear being way out of line. A hard launch only causes hop for me.

Dave, Not to steal the thread. But where did you mount the torque strap.
 
I've been away for about 2 years and once the car is finished I'll explain the entire story (long) with pics.

Sounds about right for some of us. Its like an old time GF when you are back in town. Just wanna get that booty call.... Then all the bad things come back after that.

Welcome back. I have not forgotten the Welding favor ;)
 
Sounds about right for some of us. Its like an old time GF when you are back in town. Just wanna get that booty call.... Then all the bad things come back after that.

Welcome back. I have not forgotten the Welding favor ;)

I'm at your service when you need it....:cool:
 
I have solid mounts but my car never has had enough power to worry about it. Except for the occasional donut and the rear being way out of line. A hard launch only causes hop for me.

Dave, Not to steal the thread. But where did you mount the torque strap.

I took a turnbuckle style torque strap and modified one end by removing the adjuster and welding in a short section of chain (only works in tension).

Torque%20Strap.jpg


The end with the chain is attached to the firewall end of the driver's side head using a flat steel plate with two holes drilled. One hole for the bolt that holds it on the head and a smaller hole for the clevis pin on the strap. The end with the adjustment is a attached to a "T" shapped bracket that was supplied with the strap kit. The top of the "T" has two holes that are used to bolt to the boxed frame type structure of the car, the tab has a hole to attach the clevis of the torque strap.

Unfortunatly when installed like this it sounded like the engine was knocking whenever the strap was tightened. Shortly afterwards I installed a set of steel lined rubber isolators between the T-bracket and the bolts that secured it to the boxed frame area. Was a real pain in the azz redrilling the frame holes out to about 3/4" to accept the isolators, but it worked great.

David
 
Back
Top