What size socket for removing strut rod bushing nut?

3.8

Registered User
What size socket do I need for removing the front strut rod bushing nut where it connects to the frame?
 
I'm not sure of the size, I used a big-a$$ adjustable wrench to change mine. If you use a socket, it would need to be a really deep one to reach the nut...
 
Yep, that's the problem I have... my sockets aren't deep enough. I may try the adjustable wrench if I can't find the socket size.

Would I need a metric or standard adjustable wrench? All I have now are standard ones.



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head to autozone and get an axle nut socket. You can rent them for free.

I think both nuts are 30mm. You'll most likely need a breaker bar to get them free, while holding the flat spot on the rod itself with a large adjustable wrench. If you dont have one, get a breaker bar, its a good tool to have.
 
Thanks for the size info. AutoZone is about a 60 mile round trip for me, so it really helps knowing what I need to avoid multiple trips.
 
Yep, that's the problem I have... my sockets aren't deep enough. I may try the adjustable wrench if I can't find the socket size.

Would I need a metric or standard adjustable wrench? All I have now are standard ones.

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Why metric.. of course :rolleyes: :rolleyes: :rolleyes:

Anyways, the rear nut at the control arm, is the 30mm one. I wasted some time using a socket on them years ago. Now, I just use a bigger adjustable wrench. I think its also metric ;)
 
Why metric.. of course :rolleyes: :rolleyes: :rolleyes:

Metric? Figures... now I have to go out and buy another tool!

I'll try the big adjustable wrench before I go get a socket. For re-assembly using an adjustable wrench, is the proper torque setting of the nut not very important?



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Yeah, 30mm for the big cap style nut on the SC's. I believe 24mm if it is the actual nut style, like on the LX's.

Wait a sec. At the control arm or frame side?
 
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Metric? Figures... now I have to go out and buy another tool!
LOL... Anyways...
For re-assembly using an adjustable wrench, is the proper torque setting of the nut not very important?
If memory serves me correctly, the torque setting (big nut at the control arm) is 130lbs. However, I just use my 12" adjustable wrench and my foot. Its recommended to use some Locktite on the threads with that fastener. If you look closely, you can see residue from the original thread lock.

For the 2 nuts at the frame, I just use german torque specs... goot-un-tite ;) If you want to get it close to the previous caster setting, count the number of visible threads before you remove the nuts and reinstall with the same count visible.

OK, just for review. The big cap nut at the control arm is about 30mm.. Use a big adjustable wrench, locktite, and foot torque. The 2 nuts at the frame are about 18-20mm.. Use a not so big adjustable wrench, count the threads, and tighten sufficiently.

One other thing, which may not have been mentioned, when you go to take these fasteners off, or to apply final torque, you will need something to keep the rod from spinning. I use an adjustable wrench to grab onto the rod and wedge it behind the swaybar. Be sure to keep it away from the bend in the middle of the rod. 2 inchs or so away from the "V" center should work.
 
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Wait a sec. At the control arm or frame side?
The frame side, the nut farthest to the front of the car.



LOL... Anyways...
If memory serves me correctly, the torque setting (big nut at the control arm) is 130lbs. However, I just use my 12" adjustable wrench and my foot.

Yep, I already got this one off with a socket and impact wrench, and I have a torque wrench for putting it back together.



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Yes, the nut size is 30 mm. A 1-3/16" socket also works (6pt is preferable). deep well of course. I was able to pick up a SAE size socket alot cheaper on ebay than the metric.

Good luck

David
 
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