Oil pan bolting

Hi Folks;
I've got a 95 sc that I'm currently putting a "slightly used" 94 engine into.
The engine was rebuilt apparently 12,000km (8000miles) ago. Before putting it in, I'm cleaning it as it is very filthy.
It appears that the source of a lot of the oil (as near as I can tell) is from a very leaky oil pan, in particular, the front part.
Would it make sense to drill out the oilpan holes at the front of the pan so that I can get longer bolts and bolt the pan to the block at the front? As it is now, the front pan bolts do not actually go into the block and that seems like a long span to hold the front of the pan tight.
Thanks for your thoughts.
Art.

I actually did that to mine, I drilled out the holes, and trimmed down the bumps all the way to be even with the rest of the pan flange ( since the bolts arent that long ) .. then I realized that the one bolt is actually a stud and is used to hold the oil cooler hose. So I ended up making an adapter bracket and spacer so I could install the bracket to the stud. Just something to take into consideration. I dont know if it helps seal the pan better, RTV should take care of that.

- Dan

pan bolts

Thanks for the reply,
I was planning to just use longer bolts then I wouldn't have to shorten the pan bolt housing. Judging by the condition of the motor, 8000 miles on rebuild, the huge amount of RTV I've scraped off, and all the oil on the front end, I presumed that the gasket maker itself was not enough.
Did your oilpan hold up well after this treatment?
Thanks, Art

Make sure the oil pan itself doesn't have a leak. After putting my engine back in my car and priming the oil pump, I noticeD a small amount of moisture built up surrounding a 1 inch crack in the pan. The pan is soo course anyways, it makes it tough to seE.