BHJ blues

spetz01

Registered User
This might be the route of all my problems...

http://www.sccoa.com/forums/showthread.php?t=34878&highlight=bhj+marks

No instructions with a BHJ and no timing cover to go by... I think...maybe that when I installed and timed my BHJ I might have called the middle scribe mark TDC and went back what I thought was 26 degrees ATDC, then timed the cam sensor. Me thinks my car is running 16 degrees outta whack. 400 beans for a balancer from SCP and ya think some photocopied instructions other than "DO NOT HIT" might apply.
 
So whats my new plan of attack?

Can I try and re-time the cam AFTER I reset 26 ATDC properly without removing the timing chain cover like I thought I might have to?
 
If you still have you're stock balancer you could use it to set up you cam sensor alignment and then just slap you're bhj back on after you install the sensor and be good to go.Just a thought anyways.


Jay
 
It's very simple really. The longest hash mark on the BHJ is TDC and then they only marked of 10 deg ATDC so you have to make an additional 8 marks (each mark is 2 deg) to find 26 ATDC. Make a mark on the balancer for 26 ATDC and line that up with the pointer on the timing cover. Then set your cam sensor so that the half moon points out the middle of the slot and you're done.

:)
 
OK got her back together but same running characteristics. Still did the massive backfire under boost!!

BUt at least I got the timing issue out of the way. How bad will a car with these mods run without a chip?? Mines out but runs just as bad when its in.

BTW....Livewires are for the dogs!!
 
So from what I can gather you have attempted the following already?

1) Swapped wires out
2) Switched DIC's
3) Swapped plugs
4) Swapped Ignition coils
5) Check your cam sensor position

You have to be getting closer, keep going! :D
 
So from what I can gather you have attempted the following already?

1) Swapped wires out
2) Switched DIC's
3) Swapped plugs
4) Swapped Ignition coils
5) Check your cam sensor position

You have to be getting closer, keep going! :D

isnt much left but some corroded wires:rolleyes: (as in the wiring, not plug wires)
 
It seems to have some resistance when turning over. But when I disconnect the DIS it turns over freely, sounds good. I used the picture I found posted here, and the book on setting the cam sensor. The half moon was towards the rear of the motor and the vains lined up to the middle of the housing...A straight line through were the pick up sits.

I made a jig of the timing marks on the BHJ when I did the 26 degrees ATDC..I 've gotta be +/- 1 degree on that.

I've got cyl 1,2,3 on NGK wires and 4,5,6 on livewires. 2 livewires left their terminal connectors on 3 and 1 last night..POS wires, not the first time thats happened..But I don't think its ruuning bad because of that. I'll take the IC tubes off again and swap out the 4,5,6 later.

So this is what I have..When I press the gas to get some power there is a pulsing..not much power and then stalling out, then massive backfires.
 
Dave do you know the way to set the cam and the crank when youinstall the timing chain. I would have followed all the instructions in a Haynes manual...that also includes the procedure for seeing the heads up.
 
OK got her back together but same running characteristics. Still did the massive backfire under boost!!

BUt at least I got the timing issue out of the way. How bad will a car with these mods run without a chip?? Mines out but runs just as bad when its in.

BTW....Livewires are for the dogs!!

I have the LiveWires and have not had any issues.
 
I would swap the cam sensor 180* if you are sure you have no IC tube leaks. With the sensor 180* out on a non boosted car (I have not seen it on these but on MANY regular mustangs and F-150s) the car will run but wll be down on power. If/since it is boosted, it could easily be blowing out the spark. I would try it at least.

Chris
 
The cam gear and the crank gear should have a DOT or mark on them. When installing, these two dots must line up as close to exact as possible. That can be a bit of a chore as the chain likes to fight you. Having someone to help you can make it easier.

Note that if you're not sure what to do with a part that you buy from a vendor, make sure you call the vendor before just guessing when you put it together. I know that in assembling my motor, a lot of parts don't come with instructions and I had to call a couple places.

Unless you have an adjustable timing set, there is no cam timing to set other than the initial timing when you install the gears/chain. The two dots need to line up. That sets base cam timing. The timing you set with the crank at 26 degrees ATDC is the cam sensor timing. Note that if you want to test if this is having any impact at all, you can just disconnect the cam sensor. The car will start and run basically by guessing the cam position. If using this guess it does better, then the cam sensor is likely out of sync. If it doesn't change anything, well then the adjustment of the cam position isn't your problem.

You do not need to remove the front cover to adjust the cam sensor.
 
When you checked your cam sensor timing did you verify TDC compression first? Sounds like you are out 180 deg.
 
Sorry guys...added a video on page 1 by mistake. It just lets you know how it sounds firing up and some reving.

I pulled some codes to..engine off 31,10,14,19. I have removed the EGR and the solenoid behind the SC. 14 is PIP circut failure or ignition profile pickep ??? 10 I thought was a running issue dealing with #1 not contributing. 19 power processor check?? this is new

engine running 31,10,91,77,74 31 we know, 91 HO2S sensor low voltage, system lean, 77 wide open throttle not sensed ???? 74 Brake on/off switch fault???

codes with ??? means i have no idea :)

I had a gauge in number 1 so when it came up so did the dial. When this also happen the timing mark was aligned with the longest tab on my BHJ...second last on the left.
 
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Oh yeah...for the delay...if you timed it with the tool, you are 180* out. If you drive it, when you stay out of boost, does it run fine but just low on power? Try to put it back in. Its either that, or you have a bad sensor.

Oh PIP is Profile Ignition Pickup. The black cap we are talking about that sits on top of the dist. I imagine most if not all of the codes are due to the same problem. Swap it out and tell us how it worked.

Chris
 
i didn't have a tool when aligned the cam sensor...just used pics from here and Haynes manual.

Your right though...it runs fine when just cruising, just hates boost.

Do you think it would start that nice and idle if it was 180* out?? I had the raised part of the half moon at the back when I puth the cap on...and the sensor itself is brand new out of the box.
 
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