Going Drifting

[GT2]

Ok, since I busted my 90's cherry last week I'm going to slowly turn it into a purpose only car.
Thought I would start by corner weighing the car to see where its at.
This is a stone stock car with 175# in the drivers seat, 7/8 tank of fuel, and the spare in the trunk.
http://i63.photobucket.com/albums/h133/t3lh/TB1.jpg

http://i63.photobucket.com/albums/h133/t3lh/TB3.jpg

As you can see its a little light in the RR corner ( battery moved to that corner should help ), but the cross weights are pretty good.
Man what a lead sled!:D

[GT2]

I was just going to buy springs but then I thought I would rate the stock springs and cut them to see what I ended up with.
http://i63.photobucket.com/albums/h133/t3lh/TB4.jpg
On the left of each stack is the stock spring, on the right - one coil cut off.

Stock front spring: 16.5" free height, 325# at 1", 700# at 2".
One coil cut off " : 15.75" free " , 350# " ", 725# " " .
Side note: If I compress the spring to the 13" installed height it rates out at 375# in the next 1".

Stock rear spring: 12.5" free height, 450# at 1", 1050# at 2".
One coil cut off " : 11.5" free " , 600# " " , 1225# " " .

You probably noticed the fronts hardly changed at all, but the rear increased significantly. This is because the bottom coil on the front springs is fairly tightly wound making it a " dead" coil.
I could cut another coil off the fronts but since the car has a "push" I'm going to try this first.
I'll let you know the ride height change when I get them installed.:)

Ok I got the springs installed. The front lowered about 13/16" and the rear lowered about 1&3/8".

[racecougar]

Great info!

This really ought to be over in the tech forum.

-Rod

[GT2]

After searching the forum and reading a ton of stuff I came to the conclusion that none of the standard over the counter shocks were going to be good enough.
I decided to modify a Afco "street stock" racing shock to fit the rear of the bird.
This is the Afco shock, part # 1033. I had to press out the little tie bar thing you see laying there.
http://i63.photobucket.com/albums/h133/t3lh/rshc.jpg

Next press out the stock shocks bushing.
http://i63.photobucket.com/albums/h133/t3lh/rshc1.jpg

Using a sharp thin blade chisel spread the stock shocks upper bushing, dont get carried away. Spray it down with WD40, then grab it with vice grips, twist and work it off.
http://i63.photobucket.com/albums/h133/t3lh/rshc2.jpg

You should end up with this.
http://i63.photobucket.com/albums/h133/t3lh/rshc3.jpg

Next using a 5/8" bit (or a little larger) hog out the racing shocks rubber bushing. Hang on!
http://i63.photobucket.com/albums/h133/t3lh/rshc4.jpg

Press in the stock shock lower bushing (spray it with WD40 first).
http://i63.photobucket.com/albums/h133/t3lh/rshc5.jpg

Slide on the big washer and upper bushing. The bushing is larger so cut a thin piece of alum sheet and form it around the pin, then slide it inside the bushing to tighten everything up (it dosent have to be super tight, a little slop is ok).
http://i63.photobucket.com/albums/h133/t3lh/rshc6.jpg

Using the stock upper rubber this is what it looks like... Here it is installed on the car.
http://i63.photobucket.com/albums/h133/t3lh/rshc7.jpg http://i63.photobucket.com/albums/h133/t3lh/rshc8.jpg

This shock has the same compressed height as the stock shock, but has about 2" more extension. This shouldent be a problem ( I hope) but you shouldent run your car in gear with the back end up in the air because of the extra angle in the CV's.

And for all you eagle eyes out there, yes the shock is upside down. Its a gas filled racing shock so no problem. Plus less unsprung weight!:p
I'm going to the track this friday, I'll let you know how it goes.

[quick35th]

As far as shocks go how come you didn't go with some konis?

Shane

[GT2]

As far as shocks go how come you didn't go with some konis?

Shane

If your talking about Koni sports, I used them befor and thier fine for the street but they only adjust the rebound. For serious thrashing with lowered and stiffer springs you need compression control as well.
The Afco shock is a true 50/50 shock with a #6 rate.
Sure there are other shocks that are double adj; but they cost an arm and leg.
This Afco shock is only $65 retail, I paid 59.99 + shipping so if they dont work no biggie!:)

[seawalkersee]

Let me chime in here with the coils. I have one coil cut off of each spring on my LX. I ran into the problem that it sits JUST a tad lower in the rear, maybe 1/16th of an inch. That is with my speaker box back there, but if you are going to add weight to the rear and take it off of the nose, I suggest you go with 1.25 or so rounds off of the front spring. The bad part is, that is the hard one to do:rolleyes:

GREAT info though on the rest of the stuff. I know which side to stick my Batt in the trunk now. Espically since you only have your self down as 175#, Im closer to 240# so I need to get some weight reduction there. Keep up the good work and tell your boy that your car has more than just a "drifting function".:D

Chris

[GT2]

Well the last changes hardly made any difference at the track last time (still pushing).
So I've decided to make a BIG change this time.
I bought some Afco 12" 1000# 5.5" street stock springs for the rear.
You can see in the picture they are about the same height as a stock spring, just a tad bit shorter. The two to the left are shortened stock rear springs.
http://i63.photobucket.com/albums/h133/t3lh/TB5.jpg
Not a total suprise that when I got them installed they raised the rear of the car 3.5"!
So I took them out and cut 1.5 coils off. That put the car back to about .5" lower than stock, with a rate of between 1075 and 1150#.
I drove it around and it seems pretty good, but wont know for sure till I hit the track tomorrow (6/29/07).

By the way it seemed like the diff was unlocking on me last time I was at the track. Any chance a fluid change will fix this, or is it rebuild time?
Maybe I will just weld it.

[DamonSlowpokeBaumann]

rebuild kits are cheap. You can also get an updates s spring

spring
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/8-8-Ford-Rear-end-HEAVY-DUTY-S-SPRING_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQcategoryZ33731QQihZ013QQi temZ230146692807QQ


clutches
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Ford-Racing-8-8-Traction-Lok-Rebuild-Kit-NEW_W0QQitemZ230146639240QQihZ013QQcategoryZ33731Q QssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItemrdZ1QQsspagena meZWDVW

And wouldnt a stiffer rear swaybar help dramatically?

[GT2]

rebuild kits are cheap. You can also get an updates s spring

spring
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/8-8-Ford-Rear-end-HEAVY-DUTY-S-SPRING_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQcategoryZ33731QQihZ013QQi temZ230146692807QQ


clutches
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Ford-Racing-8-8-Traction-Lok-Rebuild-Kit-NEW_W0QQitemZ230146639240QQihZ013QQcategoryZ33731Q QssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItemrdZ1QQsspagena meZWDVW

And wouldnt a stiffer rear swaybar help dramatically?
Thanks for the rebuild info.
Yes a stiffer rear bar would loosen it up, but due to the overall lack of grip and feel I dont want to overload the outside tires and lighten the inside tires.
Thats my theary and I'm sticking to it.... for now:rolleyes:

[DamonSlowpokeBaumann]

I;d be interested to see what you come up with..There are a few videos out there of IRS tbirds drifting through courses rather well..May
find them on utube..Although Im sure you already have!

[GT2]

Went drifting last night, the new rear springs helped a lot. The car seems to have a little more "feel". The front end still pushes if I enter too fast, it kind of "chatters" across the pavenent. Might need some better sticker front tires.
The darn limited slip is unlocking on me and seems to kind of mess up the drift, but boy can you make some smoke with single ding!:D
I think I'm going to just weld up the diff.

Overall I had a lot more fun this time:)

[Mike8675309]

The stock chassis is fairly neutral though all manufacturers build in oversteer like you're seeing. If you have worn bushings, that oversteer may be increasing, thus your issue with that. Remember, they try to keep all 4 wheels planted.

The Toe link compensator on the rear suspension might be able to be tweaked to get the rear to step out more easily. If you can cut a poly bushing to take the place of the rubber ones it will reduce the toe adjustments during suspension travel and should make the rear end more twitchy.

The front weight bias probably messes you up a little too.

Sounds like fun. I'd keep in mind that the rear wheel bearings are not the most forgiving when they fail. Keep your eye on them before they start to fail and wreck the knuckle.

[GT2]

Thanks for the heads up on the wheel bearings Mike86, I'll keep an eye on them. Putting all that side load on them cant be good in the long run.