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View Full Version : wont start fast clicking , buzzer under dash



89tird
05-21-2007, 04:48 PM
just got the car , car wont turn over i hear this fast clicking , battery marks 11.8v , buzzing sound under dash coming from a ford black box , maybe an alarm ?? also something is moving on the rear drivers fender inside the trunk , why wont the car start ?

tbirdaj
05-21-2007, 05:20 PM
what's the amperage in the battery at the moment?

89tird
05-21-2007, 05:31 PM
dont i need somebody to crank the car for me to check amps ?? im alone right now .. also both leads look worn and loose when i disconnect them for a lil while , i get power inside the car when i connect them back up , but i get an alarm light when the car doesnt start , the guy did a mess with installing his own alarm , but they drove the car onto the trailer so that means it should start

x182dan
05-21-2007, 05:37 PM
did you jump the solenoid on the starter to make sure that the starter is fine? Thats always a good place to start

89tird
05-21-2007, 06:01 PM
help me out ive been looking for the starter and the solenoid , cant find them , is the starter solenoid the one next to the battery ?

x182dan
05-21-2007, 06:06 PM
help me out ive been looking for the starter and the solenoid , cant find them , is the starter solenoid the one next to the battery ?

The starter solenoid I believe is on the drivers side near the battery somewhere just look where the positive cable goes to. Theres also one on the starter itself. If you simply jump the two big studs on the solenoid then the car SHOULD turn over if it doesn't then you need a starter. There is also a starter solenoid on the starter itself. I have never jumped the solenoid on the fender only the one on the starter itself but it should work the same ya. If you jump it there will be sparks but don't be worry about then your only gonna jump it for a second to see if the starter will turn over. You don't need the key on or anything to do this. Pretty simple stick a screw driver inbetween the two studs
Dan

garsc
05-21-2007, 06:23 PM
Start with basics charge and check the battery Autozone and most retailers do it for free then clean the cable ends. After market replacement {bolt on cable ends] are a major scource of problems. Then look at starter selonoid ,starter cables, and starter.

89tird
05-21-2007, 06:44 PM
ok tried jumping the solenoid on the firewall didnt work , battery seems drained , still cant find the starter !!! where is it ??? , also looks like i have to change the battery terminals because they are loose and i cant tighten or loosen the screw that goes through them , so right now im chargin the battery , oh it looks like the guy installed a push start button on dash under s. wheel tried pushing while turning key but nothing , also what does it mean when i leave the switch open for a lil while and a beat starts intermittent but becomes solid and annoying , i could hear it through under glove comp. better what it is ?? sorry for all the questions guys just trying to get her starter to see what it sounds like , just got it today :D

89tird
05-21-2007, 06:58 PM
ok i think theres a short or something , i tried the battery from my crown vic , all lights came up good , but when i turn the switch everything turned off, what now ?? :o

Vince_Hayduk
05-21-2007, 08:18 PM
sounds like someone has done some "modifications" to the electrical :eek:

Look at the ignition switch (not where you put the key in, but the actual switch) and see what condition it is in. They are known to separate (fall apart) and cause problems. That may be the reason the previous owner tried a push button start. Search for ignition switch and start reading.

If that doesn't get you anywhere, then you need to start going through things one by one. Report back here with AS MUCH DETAIL AS POSSIBLE! We need as much info as we can get to help you.

1) Make sure the battery is good/charged.
2) Fix the issues with the battery cables. Even if they aren't a problem now, they will become one if they are bad. Fix them now so that you can rule them out.
3) Connect the battery cables (with the ignition off). Do any lights come on? Dome light? Brake lights? Head lights?
4) Turn the key to the "run" position. Does the radio turn on? Heater? Dash warning lights?
5) What happens when you turn the key to "start"?
6) Is the "alarm" still installed? Can you trace back the pushbutton start wires? If you can give us the wire colors, it would be great.

Vince

89tird
05-21-2007, 08:27 PM
just talked to the guy who brought the car over , he said the previous owner told him there was a trick on how to start the car but that he didnt show him how , he said the guy started it and ran good then he drove it up on the truck , i tried calling the previous owner but hes not home or dont want to pick up maybe since he said the car had 38000 miles and it really has 138000:mad: , anyways ill try to start the car this way later on tonight , thanks for all the help ..

oh by the way when the batt was on and i would turn the switch all the lights would come one

S_Mazza
05-21-2007, 09:26 PM
I think that you really need to straighten out the problem with the battery terminals before you go any farther. You are obviously getting juice from the battery, but not enough to turn the starter over. Now, the question is, is the problem in the starter or the wiring?

With the cables installed on the battery, use a multimeter and test for ohms of resistance between the battery terminal and the outside of each cable end. It should be no resistance. If there is resistance, then you have a problem. Next, test from the negative battery terminal to the top alternator bolt. Again, it should be no resistance. If those tests both seem ok, you could still have a problem with the wiring. Maybe there is corrosion underneath the battery cable end. That would let a little current through, but have enough resistance to overheat the connection when trying to power the starter, which might break the connection and result in a no-start.

89tird
05-22-2007, 06:25 PM
finally got it started , started messing with switch under dash and this was the one , well anyways runs , engine a lil noisy , boost gage reads close to 20 , now i tried to check the supercharger fluid by removing allen bolt in front of charger , fluid started flowing out , it was dark grey !! :confused: looks really old ,whats the color of supercharger fluid ?? and where can i get it ? , also anybody got a fuse diagram ??

S_Mazza
05-22-2007, 08:19 PM
Ok, slow down.

First, congratulations on getting it started.

Second, when you say "boost gauge reads close to 20," you mean on the left (vacuum) side, right? The needle should be on the left side at idle.

Third, did you open the supercharger fill port with the engine running? I bet stuff flew out in that case. If it was with the engine off, then maybe it was overfilled a little. Anyway, new SC fluid is clear. The old stuff looks gray because of the wear on the gears over time. The metal particles end up in the fluid. The easiest and cheapest way to replace the fluid is to siphon out the old fluid by using the top from a spray bottle (Windex, etc.) and spraying it into some sealable container. You should be able to dispose of it with your used oil or brake fluid. Now, for the new fluid, go to a GM dealership (Pontiac or Buick) and ask for supercharger fluid for a Grand Prix GTP, Regal GS, or Park Avenue Ultra. Since they also use Eatons, the fluid works fine. Ford's fluid is synthetic, so it lasts longer, but it is over double the price. I think I paid about $6-$8 per 4 oz bottle? Buy two - you may need them both to get to the proper level. Add fluid gradually until it just reaches the bottom of the threads in the hole. Put the plug back in and you are done.

Fourth, I do, but not with me. For electrical stuff, a used EVTM (Electrical / Vacuum Troubleshooting Manual) is a good cost-effective solution.

89tird
05-22-2007, 09:14 PM
lol sorry i just dont want to make a new thread on every problem i have yes the boost gage reads on the left side , i opened the plug with engine off , i left it cooling after running it for 3 min. here are some more problems i got , if anybody wants to help.

1) tach not working ( i read somewhere that it might be a bad dis , if so is this the one next to a/c compressor with jelly on top and ciruits under the the gel ? )

2) fuel door not opening through switch in glove comp, checked fuses under dash all good , im on empty. :eek:

3) fan is mounted but no harness with plug i guess previous owner lost it , gotta check fan if not ill go to junker. any idea on how much the fan is ?

4) headlights dont light up , side yellow lights do . fuses good

5) engine kind of sounds like when theres a plug blow out but not so loud.. ??

6) throttle cable was disconnected when i got car , still not connected properly just fit it through hole on linkage, still trying to figure out how to do it properly.

7) ok i hear some pulley noises when engine running or sort of sounds like it ,for how long can i take off the belt to see if its belt or pulley related ? i do this on my crown vic for like 10 secs , same thing ?

8) theres some orange rtv under s.c is this a cheap leak repair or normal ?

again sry for all the questions guys im just a noob :(

tbirdaj
05-22-2007, 09:22 PM
For number 1 in the list ,yes the DIS is on top of the a.c. compressor

For number 2 in the list, if you open the trunk there should be a cable release for the fuel door on the passenger side.

89tird
05-22-2007, 09:30 PM
ok thanks , ill try to go look in the trunk after it stop raining

89tird
05-22-2007, 09:57 PM
oops forgot one , i get four lights on lower r. side of cluster, check engine , check gauges , and something else , is the check gages light related to the tach not working or what does it mean ?

S_Mazza
05-23-2007, 10:59 AM
For # 6 - you mean the cable that fits on the very top of the throttle bracket was undone? If so, that is the Throttle Valve (TV) cable and it's very important to the transmission's operation. There should be a little black grommet in the bracket that the black plastic nub on the side of the cable simply pops into. If you are missing the grommet, you can get a better, brass one from Ford. Ask "Fast Ed" on this forum - he's a Ford parts guy.

# 8 - it's probably ok. I used orange RTV to seal my blower top to the blower.

89tird
05-23-2007, 08:38 PM
im talkin about the one on the intake side that connects to the throttle body on the bracket with the big spring ? can you tell me how to post pics?

S_Mazza
05-24-2007, 09:46 AM
I'm a member, so it might be different if you're not, but when I am editing a thread, I click the little button on the toolbar that looks like a yellowish postcard of a mountain. That should let you insert an image from the Web. I don't think you can post directly from your hard drive. If you have a website somewhere, you should be able to upload the pic there and then link to it. What I have done in the past is to use the website TinyPic, which is free, to post jpegs, and then link to that address. The hosting is temporary, so be aware.

89tird
05-24-2007, 08:44 PM
this is what im talking about http://i133.photobucket.com/albums/q64/nyinterceptor/Image021.jpg

sorry for crappy pics were taken with cell phone .

also whats this loose connector for ?http://i133.photobucket.com/albums/q64/nyinterceptor/d.jpg

and misc :D http://i133.photobucket.com/albums/q64/nyinterceptor/v.jpg

birds4us
05-24-2007, 09:45 PM
The first pic is the TV cable for the transmission. It has to be connected properly, or your trans will get fried. The second pic looks like one of the connectors for the crank sensor.

S_Mazza
05-25-2007, 11:51 AM
Yep, it's the TV cable. Do get a replacement for that grommet before you try to drive anywhere.

(I shouldn't tell you this, because I really want you to fix it the right way, but I have a funny story about that little grommet. I broke that grommet on my old '89 non-supercharged Bird. I was in the process of fixing the headgaskets at the time. I called the Ford dealer to get a new one, and they told me that it was impossible to get the part. Obviously, they were wrong, but they just didn't care enough about their job to get it right. Anyway, I didn't know what that cable was for, but I knew that I needed it connected. So I cut up the body of a Bic pen to form a little sleeve of the proper length. I punched a hole through both sides and slid it over the plastic nub. Then I took a big paper clip and put it through the whole thing and wrapped it tight so it would hold against the groove in the plastic nub. I know it's ridiculous, but that same stupid jerry-rig has held up for the last nine years and 70,000 miles. My uncle still drives it. Original transmission still going at about 170,000 miles. I don't understand it. Anyway, that's my story. But do fix it the right way. It's worth it.)

By the way, the car looks very nice! I like that color. IS the rest of the body in good shape?

89tird
05-25-2007, 09:03 PM
thank you for the compliments , the paint is perfect , looks like the car was garaged its whole life , theres a big dent on the front r. fender , but today i bought a brand new aftermarket fender for $50 its just primed black so i gotta paint it , and theres some other small dents on the right. side of the car but not to bad , today i went to the junkyard and pulled some pieces of n/a birds , called autozone and advanced , they dont have the grommet , i still dont know what it looks like so im kind of clueless , i have a lil rubber grommet on the actual cable that i passed through the slot of the tb so i could move the car , but im still missing the one that goes inside the slot , s mazza you told me you could get me a better brass one ?? i had to drive the car back into my backyard today to make space for parking up front , didnt reeally want to but had to..

btw you say regular t-birds have the same grommet ?? you could see the im talking about on the pic.. do you know of any place i could get that grommet new from besides the stealership ?? thanks again

fturner
05-25-2007, 11:15 PM
lol sorry i just dont want to make a new thread on every problem i have yes the boost gage reads on the left side , i opened the plug with engine off , i left it cooling after running it for 3 min. here are some more problems i got , if anybody wants to help.

1) tach not working ( i read somewhere that it might be a bad dis , if so is this the one next to a/c compressor with jelly on top and ciruits under the the gel ? )

Could also be the cam sensor which I would replace before the DIS as its alot cheaper. As for that gel on the DIS, that is heat sink paste NOT dieletric grease. You can get this stuff at a Radio Shack or computer store. Wouldn't hurt to take the DIS off, clean both surfaces so they are very clean and apply a thin layer of the paste to one of the surfaces, then hand tighten the screws back down.

2) fuel door not opening through switch in glove comp, checked fuses under dash all good , im on empty. :eek:

I beleive if you pop the trunk, there should be a handle somewhere that you can pull on to pop the fuel door.

3) fan is mounted but no harness with plug i guess previous owner lost it , gotta check fan if not ill go to junker. any idea on how much the fan is ?

Make sure you get the duel speed fan.

4) headlights dont light up , side yellow lights do . fuses good

There is a headlamp master fuse located in the electrical junction box located next to your battery, might want to check the fuses there. Also the head light switch are also known to go bad as well.

5) engine kind of sounds like when theres a plug blow out but not so loud.. ??

Not a good sign if your sure all plugs are in properly. When your checking things out and considering what it sounds like its been done to that car, I get the kit to test your coolant to see if you have combustion gases in there. If you do, it could be head gasket time.

6) throttle cable was disconnected when i got car , still not connected properly just fit it through hole on linkage, still trying to figure out how to do it properly.

I beleive there should be a small pin that sticks out with a ball on the end of it, if all is well, the throttle cable should just snap right on that and stay.

7) ok i hear some pulley noises when engine running or sort of sounds like it ,for how long can i take off the belt to see if its belt or pulley related ? i do this on my crown vic for like 10 secs , same thing ?

A known issue with the factory idler pullies, as those are plastic and start to "square" themselves after awhile.

8) theres some orange rtv under s.c is this a cheap leak repair or normal ?

Alot of folks use orange rtv to seal up the intercooler tubes

again sry for all the questions guys im just a noob :(

Don't worry, we all start somewhere :)

89tird
05-26-2007, 09:53 AM
:D lol thank you for answering all my questions , yesterday i got a fan from a 94 + at the junker ,the plug works perfect but doesn't fit under hood , its kind of hard to get sc parts down here

89tird
05-26-2007, 02:21 PM
ok i just bought the plastc bushing from ford for 3 bucks , it was the last one they had now which way do i install it ? it has a flange and a flat face , which side goes in the grommet on the cable?

89tird
05-26-2007, 03:38 PM
some pics you guys could now what im talking about
here's what i bought from ford ( plastic bushing )
http://i133.photobucket.com/albums/q64/nyinterceptor/Image018.jpg

that i think goes in the throttle lever hole, and i have to push the black grommet inside the white bushing correct ?

http://i133.photobucket.com/albums/q64/nyinterceptor/Image022.jpg

well it looks like the black grommet on the cable doesnt really fit inside the small hole of the white bushing , is it hard to fit ?
http://i133.photobucket.com/albums/q64/nyinterceptor/fdfd.jpg

S_Mazza
05-26-2007, 07:20 PM
That is the right bushing. You could get a brass one, too, but that should be fine. I think that you want the flat face on the left, but I am not sure.

Your picture does look weird, but I just had an inspiration about it. It looks like the remains of the old grommet, which was black, is still stuck on the plastic pin. I think you need to pull that off and then it should fit into the white one just fine. Try that and let us know if it doesn't work.

89tird
05-26-2007, 08:16 PM
got it !!! perfect you guys are great , it was just two small o-rings on it pulled them off put white bushing on and it snapped in place , now its just a matter of adjusting it , i heard tighter better than weak ?? do i need to take it somewhere or can i do it on my own , note: i dont have registration , tag, nor insurance since i want to make it roadworthy before i drive it somewhere, im still working on lights , no headlights nor brake lights nor turn signal ,just finished painting new fender with rattle can :D ..

btw: do i need to remove the antenna to take off old fender , if so how thanks

89tird
05-26-2007, 08:18 PM
oh oh one more thing , i painted the fender with duplicolor rattle cans from autozone , two 5 oz cans , the finish came out rough , so i thought i could spray some clear coat and then sand with 2000 grit to make smooth , is this good will this make it a smooth finish ??

S_Mazza
05-28-2007, 11:23 PM
You should ideally have the pressure set with a gauge by a tranny shop, but you can "eyeball" it to get it there. The TCCOA has a prodcedure for it in the Tech Articles section. I would not rely on this in the long term, but it should be ok to get you to a shop.

About the paint - I think you should be sanding before you clearcoat, then again after. The paint is all in the prep. Maybe pick up a "paint & body" issue of a reputable car mag like PHR or Hot Rod.

89tird
05-29-2007, 05:29 PM
i got about 1/4 of an inch of ridges showing on the cable , tighter is better right ? if less ridges showing means tighter ?? , also about the fender , i think im going to leave it to the pros , its getting expensive with all the paint i been buying , and also somebody told me it was better to fix the old fende since its oem , i was looking at the aftermarket and it says made in taiwan , looks cheap , any experiences with these ?

S_Mazza
05-29-2007, 05:34 PM
1/4 inch showing sounds too tight to me. Mine shows about 1/2" to 5/8", and I think it's a little too tight. It holds 3rd a little longer than it should, and light-throttle upshifts to 4th are a little clunky. It drives a good deal better than it did with the cable too loose (it took forever to shift out of OD when stopping, plus throttle response was really soft, and kickdown was really slow). I think the cable should have less than 1/2" of pre-tension with the throttle at rest.

89tird
05-29-2007, 06:00 PM
ok i just adjusted it to 1/2 inch , man i cant wait to get the car in the streets but im kind of worried on the maintenance the previous owner did , i asked him if there was coolant in the oil , he said no , my oil looks yellowish , and the drain plug is stripped no way to grab it , this guy was a mess , im thinking on doing the seafoam treatment , is it safe for the sc ?? , i did it on my crown vic to clear out some pinging , i wanna do it to the sc to try to stop a valve cover noise , like a lifter noise , it has me a lil worried but i just want to try to see if it goes away . :(

t-birdNY
05-29-2007, 08:17 PM
check your pm's

89tird
05-30-2007, 05:52 PM
just started the car to see if i could narrow where the ticking sound was really coming from , i thought it was coming from the valve cover , but after listening closely i found out it was big bubbles in the overflow tank :eek:, i know this is a sign of hg , and also milshake oil , my oil smells so sweet :p , my coolant reservoir is below cold fill , i was thinking of refilling to see if it went down , and changing oil to see if coolant will get in the oil again , i dont want to waste jugs of expensive coolant so can i top off with water ?

S_Mazza
06-06-2007, 01:46 PM
You can top it off with water on a temporary basis, but the corrosion and antifreeze protection will be diluted accordingly.

Also, you should avoid running it with leaking head gaskets. If there is a leak, it could blow out and drop a lot of water in the motor. That could be very bad.