New front end parts installed... but it still pops!

3.8

Registered User
New parts just installed:

- upper control arms
- lower control arms
- strut rod bushings, at both the frame and control arm ends
- sway bar links

I also put in a set of front '92 Sport shocks and springs since my SC shocks were trash.

The car still makes a horribly loud popping noise when I am driving and start to turn, but usually only on a bumpy road surface when the front bounces a little or the car rocks a little from side to side. When turning, it will pop loudly only one time and I can feel it "pop" in the floorboard. All the parts I replaced are tight.

What should I check next?



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Tighten the subframe :cool:

Are these the 8 bolts with the odd shaped heads? One of them was actually missing, so I got one out of my parts car to put in it. The bolt threaded in some but then the nut it was going into started spinning inside the body. I was aggravated at this point and didn't even think to check the rest of them. I may just get my welder out... :eek:
 
Are these the 8 bolts with the odd shaped heads? One of them was actually missing, so I got one out of my parts car to put in it. The bolt threaded in some but then the nut it was going into started spinning inside the body. I was aggravated at this point and didn't even think to check the rest of them. I may just get my welder out... :eek:

Definately sounds like a loose sub-frame; especially since one bolt was completely missing. I believe you can get to the back side of them through the unibody mounting points, under the hood. I'd soak them all really well with PB Blaster or equiv, then remove them (one at a time), then clean, locktite, and re-torque them. If some of the weld nuts are broken loose, you should be able to fish in a standard nut through the openings in the unibody structure. Might not be fun, but a telescopic magnet might help.

Good Luck,

JD
 
Tighten the subframe :cool:

Ok, I tightened the subframe bolts and all seems well for now. They were so loose that I could see "rings" around the bolts where they had been sliding on the subframe.

I thought I read somehwere on here that someone used a six point 14 mm socket to tighten the bolts to 140 ft lbs., so I used the six point and tightened then to 120 ft lbs. Then I read the following in another post...

4. Remove alignment tools and complete tightening of all eight bolts to 97-132 N-m (72-97 lb-ft).

I guess my extra 23 ft lbs won't hurt anything?


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I never thought of it, but you're right... the sliding crossmember would throw the alignment out of whack a bit.

This may help explain why I'm not satisfied with the alignment I got a about a week ago.



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There is enough possible movement that it could throw the alignment off. However, if you eyeball it closely, you'll see the wear marks from where to bolts were seated. Use a hammer and tap the subframe into place where the marks line up again and then tighten them down. Should be so close that the alignment won't be disturbed.
 
There is enough possible movement that it could throw the alignment off. However, if you eyeball it closely, you'll see the wear marks from where to bolts were seated. Use a hammer and tap the subframe into place where the marks line up again and then tighten them down. Should be so close that the alignment won't be disturbed.

That would work if it had been aligned while the subframe bolts were tight. However, in this case, it sounds like the subframe could have been in any position during the alignment.
 
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