Surface rust......

ecyrbh

ecyrbh

Registered User
Just picked up my Engine block,crank,and rods/pistons from 2nd machine shop.All this machine shop did was hot tank everything and do nothing else.Now I'm left with a bunch of surface rust along with rust in areas that I cant easily clean with a brush or something.I'm kinda disgusted with its condition,just another reason why I pulled my stuff out of there.Enuff rant,is'nt there something out there that I can spray on it and rinse off to get rid of it or at least lessen it?If not I guess I'm gonna get Popeye Arms due to all the claenup.Can someone give me any ideas? Thanks
 
ecyrbh said:
Anyone........???????????????
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i dont think there is one thing made thats gonna make this easy unless your polishing these i would just paint over it ,well clean them up a bit but not worry about them being perfect..

other than that you gonna have to wire wheel them or somthing...:rolleyes:
 
Thanks for the help,but I think I may have found something(not naval jelly)that may just take care of my problem in a spray bottle.I'll post my results if it works.
 
"rust mort"

paint it on and let it dry, it does some chemical thing where it bonds to the rust and hardens it and prevents it from spreading further. It doesn't dry smooth, so i wouldn't use it in highly visible areas like the middle of the hood or something, but for the undercarriage, or the very bottom edge of the fenders and doors it might not be so bad as long as you are not looking for show quality finish on your paint job.
 
He's talking about engine parts, not body panels.

The main areas of concern are the journals on the crankshaft, rods, etc .. anywhere that you might have a bearing and needs to be within a specific tolerance.
I would have your crankshaft looked at by a specialist .. polished or ground down to spec. Most of these guys will coat your parts with WD40 or something to keep the moisture away. Engine shops can be careless when it comes to not protecting parts that have been hot tanked.

Was your engine block machined yet ? Cylinder walls honed ? These kind of areas can rust extremely fast, especially in the areas of the cross hatching.

Your pistons should be fine, I dont see why they would rust. Just the rods, crank and block. Outside of the block or water jackets isnt such a big deal .. but youll want to clean the cylinder walls, oil passages, and journals like you would with any rebuild.

- Dan
 
Thanks Ddubb,The whole reason everything got rusty is because the machine shop left everything outside,in the rain,and didnt bother to bring it in,much less blow everything dry or spray it with WD40.All the little nooks and crannies on the inside of the block have rust accumulations,most in areas where you cant get to.This all stems from this machinist not wanting to do the work I requested.I purchased a product called Rust-Cure to spray on my stuff.It has phosphoric acid in it,so i'm going to test areas on the outside first before I get crazy with it.Has anyone used this product before?Let me know,please.........
 
Well,I used Rust-Cure on my block this past weekend.What a product!!!!!Spray it on,let it dry,wipe it off.Worked so well that I discovered that I cant use this engine block without boring it.So my decision was made to tear into my spare engine and take a peak.With the exception of a little build up of sludge/varnish,the spare motor looks to be in very good condition.I can still see crosshatch in each cylinder,crank journals are smooth,and someone had already gasket matched the cylinder heads.I'm just going to use this short block,after I have it cleaned up and have cam bearings installed.I'll still have the original engine(the rust bucket),to play with later on.A question that I have is,since I'm in this deep,should I go ahead and invest in new pistons(assuming that this block will clean-up and remain std. bore)???????????If so,should I go Hyperutectic<spelling> or forged.If I go forged,are there any manufacturers out there that dont have to custom make them??:)
 
I was going to mention, some kind of acid would take care of the rust, but as youve discovered, it can have ill effects on critical areas, like the cylinder bore and journals, so I would not recommend it for anything that needs to have a precision measurement.

- Dan
 
I didnt mention that this engine sat for 5 years with blown head gaskets and on tear down there was still coolant in both rear cyls.The rust pits that I discovered were in those cyls.All of the others cleaned up OK using a ball hone,the 2 in question didnt.
 
ecyrbh said:
Well,I used Rust-Cure on my block this past weekend.What a product!!!!!Spray it on,let it dry,wipe it off.Worked so well that I discovered that I cant use this engine block without boring it.So my decision was made to tear into my spare engine and take a peak.With the exception of a little build up of sludge/varnish,the spare motor looks to be in very good condition.I can still see crosshatch in each cylinder,crank journals are smooth,and someone had already gasket matched the cylinder heads.I'm just going to use this short block,after I have it cleaned up and have cam bearings installed.I'll still have the original engine(the rust bucket),to play with later on.A question that I have is,since I'm in this deep,should I go ahead and invest in new pistons(assuming that this block will clean-up and remain std. bore)???????????If so,should I go Hyperutectic<spelling> or forged.If I go forged,are there any manufacturers out there that dont have to custom make them??:)
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........to the top..........
 
ask a shop if you punch it 030 ,if that will get rid of the pitting in the cyl's walls ,of coarse they would have to see it . go from there..

if i was doing a rebuild -the shop gets it ,so it can be hot tanked ,then a magnuflux ,then cam bearings and the freeze plugs as well as the bore and hone as well as the other stuff that should be done -crank-rods would get checked also

cheers
 
[A question that I have is,since I'm in this deep,should I go ahead and invest in new pistons(assuming that this block will clean-up and remain std. bore)???????????If so,should I go Hyperutectic<spelling> or forged.If I go forged,are there any manufacturers out there that dont have to custom make them??:)[/QUOTE] What have some of you other guys used in the past......Chime-in
 
Ttt.................

ecyrbh said:
[A question that I have is,since I'm in this deep,should I go ahead and invest in new pistons(assuming that this block will clean-up and remain std. bore)???????????If so,should I go Hyperutectic<spelling> or forged.If I go forged,are there any manufacturers out there that dont have to custom make them??:)
Click to expand...
What have some of you other guys used in the past......Chime-in[/QUOTE]
 
I would say it depends on what you plan on doing with the block. I would have the cylinder bores measured for taper or anything else, they may need to be machined from .010 to .030 .. in which case, you would need new pistons. If you were doing new pistons, and plan on doing some porting work to the heads / intake manifold, and using a more powerful supercharger, etc .. then yes, I would say investing in a set of forged pistons would be a good idea. But if you keep it stock, it would not be necessary.
I had my block measured, and it was necessary to machine it .020 .. but since I have kept everything else stock, I went with the hyper pistons since there is no need to spend the extra money.

- Dan
 
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