are the injectors enough for these upgrades ?

thunderkid84

thunderkid84

Registered User
im having problems getting my SC to idle after doing some things this past winter. i have the 42#'ers in there now but i think it may be a tuning issue and i cant afford to get a tune right now.

after checking for vac. leaks and ruling that out i was gonna try swapping the 30#'ers back in to see if that'll work.

so are 30# injectors enough for these mods til i can afford a tune with the 42#'s ??

ported & polished heads
3 angle valve job
ported intake
ported exhaust manifolds
2.25" catless downtues
dual inlet/3" single outlet magnaflow resonator
3" back to stock mufflers
custom 2.5" FMIC w/ 8"fan
3/4" raised top
94 blower w/ 5% OD
76mm MAFS
3" intake w/ K&N cone filter
stock size aluminum jackshaft pulley
 
My guess is that you'll be running out of injector with the stock 30s in there, above 4,000 rpm.

If you haven't bought the 42s yet, you may want to consider going with 50s instead. Even the 42s might end up being close to maxed out once everything is sorted.


cheers
Ed N.
 
Ed is right, but if you aren't having any luck getting the car to run right, then put the stock injectors and MAF back in the car and get it running that way. This will help you isolate and resolve your problems.
 
thanks guys. i was thinking the same.

hey Dave, with the 42's and the right sample tube the a/f ratio will be close enough to at least drive daily right ?


fast Ed said:
Even the 42s might end up being close to maxed out once everything is sorted.

cheers
Ed N.
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Am i really gonna get that much more power from my upgrades ? :)
 
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From your video I noticed that there were no plooms of black smoke, so you dont appear to be running too rich to idle. Please, I implore you to double check all of your ignition components one more time.
 
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well i found 4 vacuum leaks and one was the FPR hose.

whenever i put the SC back in it, i'll give u guys an update.

thanks for the replies.
 
Tickler said:
From your video I noticed that there were no plooms of black smoke, so you dont appear to be running too rich to idle. Please, I implore you to double check all of your ignition components one more time.
Click to expand...

im guessing the ignition components are DIS, cam sensor, coil pack ??

coil pack is good, i swapped with my buddy's and there was no difference.

i may have a bad DIS from before i pulled it apart.

it was running before but kinda crappy.
 
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Before you take everything right apart you might want to check your timing with a timing light or verfiy that your getting good spark from the coil. If the Dis is not grounded properly or any of its terminals are dirty it will cause trouble.

Also check to make sure that the bolt that holds the HB on to the crank is still in one peice.
 
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Update

just a quick update and question for u guys.

i sealed up the vacuum leaks i found and still no idle. so now i'm really starting to think its an ignition or timing issue.

i didnt touch anything having to do with timing while doing the upgrades, so that cant be it.

i disco'd the battery just to see if it can re-learn everything (what the hell, right ?)

but here's my question :

would a bad DIS or cam sensor make me run like this ??
 
thunderkid84 said:
just a quick update and question for u guys.

i sealed up the vacuum leaks i found and still no idle. so now i'm really starting to think its an ignition or timing issue.

i didnt touch anything having to do with timing while doing the upgrades, so that cant be it.

i disco'd the battery just to see if it can re-learn everything (what the hell, right ?)

but here's my question :

would a bad DIS or cam sensor make me run like this ??
Click to expand...

I don't think the cam sensor would cause the problems you are having, but a bad DIS module could. To test the cam sensor..unplug it and try starting the car. With the sensor unplugged the computer will guess at cam location, and it should start on no more than 3 tries. If it runs better unplugged, then replace it.

David
 
David Neibert said:
I don't think the cam sensor would cause the problems you are having, but a bad DIS module could. To test the cam sensor..unplug it and try starting the car. With the sensor unplugged the computer will guess at cam location, and it should start on no more than 3 tries. If it runs better unplugged, then replace it.

David
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Will either Autozone or AdvanceAuto test my DIS ? can i bring it separately or does it have to be on the car ?
 
thunderkid84 said:
im guessing the ignition components are DIS, cam sensor, coil pack ??

coil pack is good, i swapped with my buddy's and there was no difference.

i may have a bad DIS from before i pulled it apart.

it was running before but kinda crappy.
Click to expand...


Pull your buddy's DIS and see how it responds. Might take 5 minutes, but remember to grease it good.

Ira
 
Ira R. said:
Pull your buddy's DIS and see how it responds. Might take 5 minutes, but remember to grease it good.

Ira
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well that was when it was in ohio before i drove it down here to south carolina.

i wish there was some SC'ers around here.

how bout napa or car quest ?
 
MIght as well just call them and find out. Maybe a Ford dealer can do it (definitely check the price there, LOL).
 
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