Fuel Rail Bolts

rickbtbird

Registered User
I'm working on my 95SC. The bolts that hold on the fuel rail are seized on the driver’s side. I got the ones on the passenger side off with a T27 but the driver’s side won't budge. Any suggestions here?
 
I'm working on my 95SC. The bolts that hold on the fuel rail are seized on the driver’s side. I got the ones on the passenger side off with a T27 but the driver’s side won't budge. Any suggestions here?

got a torch to heat them up i know its by fuel but it might be your only bet:rolleyes: or some liquid wench stuff..
 
got a torch to heat them up i know its by fuel but it might be your only bet:rolleyes: or some liquid wench stuff..

The way my luck has been running lately I don't think I'll be heating up the fuel rail anytime soon. I soaked it down to wd40 and I'll let it sit overnight and see what happens. I've already bent three t27 bits on one of them and now I'm thinking I might have to drill it out and crank the rest out with an ease out.
 
Or you could take a hammer and chisel and give it a nice tap on the side .. should get the bolt started or break it free where you can easily turn it with the Torx bit .. Or a direct blow on the top with the hammer, might break the rust free .. I know its a small round head bolt, have you tried using a pair of vice grips ?? Sounds like as a last resort youre willing to drill it out, so might as well try everything else first.

- Dan
 
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Those are aluminum bolts, and they may have got stuck to the steel brackets. If you have a soldering iron you could probably heat up the point that the bolt is in to have it expand. then try and back it out. Otherwise take the torx bit and hold it with a needle nose. Then tap the bit with a hammer to try and break the oxidation loose.

I replaced mine with stainless steel capscrews and used plenty of anti-seize.
 
It's funny how only the ones on the driver’s side are sized. I'm betting some clown put lock tight on those from a previous repair. I've already banged the hell out of one of them with no results. I'll try the vise grips tomorrow. I don’t think an impact wrench is going to help. If I can't get them off then I have two maybe three choices.
  • Don't take off the fuel rail and hope the old o-rings don't rot away.
  • Get them out the best way I can using a combination of hammers, chisels, vise grips, and drills bits.
  • Chisel off the nut heads and try not to destroy the fuel rail. Then taking off the intake manifold and sending it out for repair or just replace it.
  • Destroy the fuel rail and remove and rework the intake manifold.
Ok so that was four.:D
 
They make a mechanical impact hammer. It's a metal impact tool that you put your torx bit in and put it into the bolt. Then you whack the impact deal with a hammer which applies a force multiplication to both bang the bolt and try and twist it all at the same time.

Looks like this
impactdriver.jpg
 
They make a mechanical impact hammer. It's a metal impact tool that you put your torx bit in and put it into the bolt. Then you whack the impact deal with a hammer which applies a force multiplication to both bang the bolt and try and twist it all at the same time.

Looks like this
impactdriver.jpg

i forgot all about thos they work well.... ;) :D
 
They make a mechanical impact hammer. It's a metal impact tool that you put your torx bit in and put it into the bolt. Then you whack the impact deal with a hammer which applies a force multiplication to both bang the bolt and try and twist it all at the same time.

When you pulled that off the shelf, did you happen to find a t27 torque bit that will fit inside that tool?
 
The Bolts holding the Fuel rail to the Intake Manifold are definately not Aluminum.
From what I remember, mine may have had some blue loctite or thread sealant on them from the factory. So it may be a good idea to heat them up to break them free, or if there is corrosion or rust somewhere in the thread or where the bolt / washer meets the fuel rail.

- Dan
 
When that happened to me, I used a cutting disk on my die grinder to cut a slot in the head of the screw. Then I took a bigass screwdriver with a wrench on it to pop them loose.
 
the bolt is steel -i think whats going on is electrolysis ,a form of corrosion because of of the different metals ,Aluminum and the Cast Iron ,stainless steel might be a better choice ,use a good grade bolt ,if the impact doesnt do it ,this happened to me ,only it was the manifold bolts snapping off when trying to remove them ,i replaced them with a grade 10.9 bolt and washers along with some anti-seize lub ,good for some of the other bolts too.
i like
Mike Puckett idea ,When that happened to me, I used a cutting disk on my die grinder to cut a slot in the head of the screw. Then I took a bigass screwdriver with a wrench on it to pop them loose. or maybe cut the bracket off and re-weld it

cheers
 
One problem with torx bolts and screws is that if you round off the points, it's toast. A torx wrench will never remove them then and sometimes it's all too easy to round them off. I use antiseize on the threads when I reinstall them.
 
Vise grips are the cats meow at this, you just gotta have the proper leverage and the manifold might have to come out first.
 
Vise grips are the cats meow at this, you just gotta have the proper leverage and the manifold might have to come out first.

If I take the manifold off before the fuel rail bolts then the entire fuel rail, injectors, and wire harness will need to come with it.
 
I didn't buy one of those. Hmm, thought they were aluminum. Must be stainless or somehow coated with something.

Any way, try it with the torx. If it doesn't work or rounds off use a dremel to grind flats into the side of the bolts and size it to fit a wrench.
 
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