Head Gaskets

NY90RedSC

Registered User
I just purchased a 1990 SC with the proverbial blown head gasket syndrome.
I have never had to replace these on my other SC and am curious as to what exactly I need to make sure of when I do this job. I know I will need to replace the head studs, correct? There is no water in the oil, only water and white smoke coming out the exhaust pipe. Will planing the heads be necessary? I plan on having the heads NDI'd before reinstalling them, but the previous owner denied ever overheating the car and had it flatbedded as soon as the white smoke appeared.
I am also contemplating changing the motor mounts while I have the car torn down. Will it be easier to do this with the top end apart?
Any tips and help will be greatly appreciated.
 
You can use the ARP head studs to replace the one time use factory head bolts. I usually have the heads milled and replace the valve seals while I'm in there. I'd also plan on changing the o2 sensor on the side that blew at least.

Engine mounts are quite a bit easier with the heads off yes. It's also not a bad time to do the water pump and any other maintenance type stuff while you are in there.
 
Thanks Kevin. That's a great idea to swap out the water pump too. I didn't think about that. How much are the ARP studs and the O2 sensors? I will most likely swap out both sides for good measure. How much is the going rate for valve seal replacements and head polishing? I am trying to get a ballpark idea so we can plan accordingly financially.
 
I believe the ARP studs are available through Summit for around $120. Do some searching around here though. I believe the Chevy 2.8L head studs may work better and are cheaper than the SC specific studs. O2 sensors are around $50-60 depending on where you get them.

Last set of heads I had milled ran me $100. I took the heads to them completely torn down (no valves or springs). I'm not sure what the going rate is to disassemble a head. If you can disassemble and assemble the heads yourself (all you need is a valve spring compressor which you should be able to rent) then you can also replace the valve seals while you have it apart.
 
I bought my ARP studs from Summit and they were under $100.00 shipped. If you decide to use stock bolts I have a brand new unopened set I will let go for $35.00 shipped {both sides}. Felpro # ES72131
 
Maybe this is too late, but When i did the heads on my car, I bought the ARP Head stud kit for the 2.8L Chevy. They have better clearance in the rear by the master cyl.

-DZ
 
ARP part # for chevy studs is 233-4003 from Summit $83.88 / 6pt.

head bolt thread size M11 x 1.50 pitch (11mm) ,in case you want to run a tap down the head threads for clean threads for the head bolts / studs

gasket set hs 9642pt 92.99 - 132.00

Replace - intake bolts ,are M8 x 55mm x 1.25 pitch
Grade 10.9 bolts and washers

and maybe some anti-sieze


good luck

cheers
 
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Are the 2.8L Chevy bolts the same size and grade as those for the SC? I don't want to chance using a part that is more prone to failure at a later date.
Where is everyone getting their gasket sets from? I'm also contemplating replacing the harmonic balancer pulley and bolts while the engine is apart as well. Anyone's thoughts on this?
 
As far as i know, they were the same grade (ARP has 3 grades and i forget which it was) and I was able to put quite a bit more torque on them than the originals according to the data sheet. To me, they are the same as the SC set, but they are just slightly shorter. The slightly shorter bolts cleared the exhaust manifold just fine (no grinding what so ever). It really was a great set.

The shorter bolts fill up every thread on the nuts with about half a thread to spare so as far as I was concerned they were perfect.

Also, they come with a tube of ARP "Sauce" that is supposed to help provide a more reliable torque setting. I wouldn't use (And it tells you not to) any other compounds on the threads.

I am very happy with the 2.8L set.

Here are some images of when I installed mine just for kicks.


You can make out the excess length in the bottom image.
 
I appreciate the pics showing the new studs vs. the old ones. Looks like it will be the 2.8L set for my car when I get ready to do the work. I'll be picking the car up on July 4th and will be tearing it down most likely the next day.
I will most likely start getting the parts I need ordered now though so I'm not stuck waiting.
 
i don't want to do it a 2nd time either : lol

don't let the cyl's. bores ,set - wet to long ,it will rust the walls ,keep them oil'ed till the heads go on ,clean them up just before they go back on

the ARP's for the sc cost a bit more ..and some say they were or are to long
the chev ARP's studs fit just right

as for the magic "ARP "Sauce" ,mine did'nt come with it

Head Gasket Kit, FelPro, HS9642PT, O'Reilly, $92.99 ,on line

i bought mine at the parts store ,cost me 132.00 plus tax -that could of went to the remote oil filter and hose's that i wanted or my water/oil gauges

cheers
 
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