ok finally started the hg's !!

89tird

Registered User
just got home and started the project , took off the belts , belt tensioners , drained most of the coolant , removed upper and lower rad hose , intake pipe and box , got all four bolts on the supercharger top loose and the two bolts that connect to the top ic pipe , the third bolt on the side of the pipe is missing , the top is not coming off , my sc top has orange rtv under it this might be holding it from coming apart but i dont know if i missing something it should come out if i got all this stuff loose right ? right now i had to stop working on it because it started pouring and i dont have a garage.

btw i havnt ordered nothing yet but im going to get everything tonight.

1) hg's p/n HS9642PT correct ??
2) ok im like in a budget for this project , i really want the 2.8l arp chevy studs p/n 233-4003 but they are $84 , and autozone has a fel pro head bolt set p/n ES72131 for $16 will this be good ?
3) motor mounts az p/n 2661

thanks
 
I'm certainly no expert, but...

While I can't give any advise regarding the part #s I can say the SC top is literally glued down by the RTV/silicone sealant. Take a soft (rubber) mallet and tap it loose. A regular hammer and a block of wood will work if it's all that's available.
 
The TTY bolts from felpro that you can order will work fine. The pain with those is you can only use those bolts once, and you MUST follow the instructions on torqueing those up.

Also, when you are going to tackle taking the old head bolts out, reverse the procedure that is used to put the new ones in. Break them all loose in sequence, then relieve the pressure of the bolts in a couple of steps. This will help prevent any warpage of the heads.

Good luck ;)
 
Unless you have a real god memory!
Put your bolts in marked baggies
Mark all connectors and vac hose
take digital pics, and make notes.
There is a good tear down list on the forum, worth having for sure.
If you use TTY bolts don't be in a hurry take it down step by step.
(check the forum for correct SC torque, some manuals lie)
The good news is that there are a group of guys here who seem to always be glad to help. They answer the same questions over and over.

Thanks guys for helping me with my mess---it runs like new now
 
quick question: why are you removing the top? I assume you are replacing it with a raised version. Also, fel pro now makes the mls head gasket with a rubber coating negating the need to get a mirrored finish on heads and block. ARP studs are a very, very good idea if at all possible. You have to replace the bolts anyway. If I remember correctly, ARP now makes the correct kit, which includes the already cut lower bolts. The others require cutting (last time I did this). Your chevy part number may be correct but search anyway. L
 
:eek: dont tell me i didnt have to remove my top .. well its out already.

worked on the car two hours today , got sc top off , upper and lower ic tubes , intercooler , r/side front accesorie mount ( moved it foward some) moved a/c compressor , looks like im going to need to rent the p.s puller tool my ps puelly has a lot of play back and forth.. should i take the hood off ?? looks like a pain to work behind the plenum with the hood on , i just dont want rain to be going all over the engine ..

also you saying that with mls gaskets i dont need to resurface the heads ?? my car got reconditioned heads they look brand new
 
sorry i thought you were talking about not needing to make the heads perfect flat with those new gaskets
 
naw, just that you don't need to mirror finish them anymore to accomodate the new gaskets. Tell me again why you are pulling the PS pulley? Are you replacing the pump? Easier with hood off but clearly not needed. Cowling off makes it much more enjoyable (if that's possible). Rain in motor.....bad. L
 
the pump was making a lot of noise and now i found the pulley has a lot of play dont know if i need new pump or pulley
 
You will need to take the cowl and wipers off to be able to get to things.
I leave the wiper motor dangeling.

I pull the ps pulley off (with the right puller it's no big deal)
Get some heavy rubber bunge straps to dangle ps assy and ac assy to the front and sides of the eng compartment.

While you have it cleared out, its a good time to check your motor mounts.
Now is the best time to replace them.

I leave the hood on just to have a place to hang my drop light, and to bang my head on when things get boring!
 
the charger is out !! along with the plenum and tb, best of all is that i didnt even take out the wiper cowl or wipers :D got the rear plenum bolt from the bottom of the car , PITA but got it , i spent like an hour trying to get a damn bolt in the pass side accesorie bracket just because i didnt have a crow foot , well now thats out , valve covers are out , fuel rail moved to the side.

ive never taken out the injectors from any of my cars how do you take them out ?? dont want to break them.

everything under the valve covers look good everything nice and tight push rods look new. i found some milky residue on my pass side valve cover gasket and some gasket material around one of the pushrods.. looks like my intake manifold was leaking at the t-stat housing at some point because it has a huge gasket around it and alot of black rtv , the one on my crown vic cracked at the same spot and rtv did it for me. also alot of black rtv where the heads meet the block.
 
I took the hood struts loose on my hood, then lifted it back with a rag between the back of the hood and the windshield, then I strap it with a bungee. Just a little tension and hook that to my garage door opener frame.

Also, use anaerobic sealer or loctite to put that SC top back on, Orange RTV was found down in my blower when I took mine off, it was like that when I bought it. Not good...
 
Use ARP's

Do not use the factory-style torque-to-yield head bolts; buy the ARP's or plan to do the project over again. You MAY get away with using the flimsy bolts, but the ARP's will let you sleep at night. It's worth the few extra bucks. Here's a thread I started after I completed the H/G replacement on one of my cars:

http://www.sccoa.com/forums/showthread.php?t=86529

It lists the parts I used on my project. Not all are necessary, but it's a good reference for the P/N's you choose to replace.

Also, have a good machine shop hot tank and resurface your heads. You'll probably only need to have 0.002" - 0.004" removed to clean them up. If they're not flat, they're not going to seal.

Good Luck,

JD
 
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oh thanks about that i was about to buy some rtv
 
Do not use the factory-style torque-to-yield head bolts; buy the ARP's or plan to do the project over again. You MAY get away with using the flimsy bolts, but the ARP's will let you sleep at night. It's worth the few extra bucks. Here's a thread I started after I completed the H/G replacement on one of my cars:

http://www.sccoa.com/forums/showthread.php?t=86529

It lists the parts I used on my project. Not all are necessary, but it's a good reference for the P/N's you choose to replace.

Good Luck,

JD

ya i was looking at your post , thanks for posting the p/n's and stuff , your engine bay came out really nice !!

i know arp is the way to go but just too much money right now , i think tty would be good if torqued properly, i need to get a ps pump , some belts , belt tensioner , plugs, wires and who knows what else so i gotta save up.
 
Orange RTV is good for sealing up the blower top and the IC tubes. Just don't get the idea that you need GOBS of the stuff to seal... A 1/8" bead along the center of the surface will be good enough for an excellent seal.

The TTY bolts will work great for a car that is relatively stock. I put ARP studs in mine cause I got a really good deal on them, otherwise I would have used the TTY bolts. Again, just make sure you take your time and torque them down properly.

When your bolting down the intake manifold, keep retorqueing the bolts until they stay at torque. I checked mine every 10 minutes, and had to repeat the torque sequence 8 times before they held torque. Then I waited for a couple of hours and checked again.
 
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the driverside head is out! man im glad i listened to you guys on doing this as soon as i pryed the head off coolant just started gushing out alot! i wish i would of been prepared, the intake manifold gasket was broken and the hg had like burn holes on the middle cylinder and exhaust valve has a lot of carbon, pulled the push rods and rocker arms they look good, one thing that has me worried is what looks like russt under the intake manifold, maybe the car was sitting for a while with coolant inside now i wonder how the engine is, the cylinders look ok, i couldnt see the crosshatch marks but ill look tomorrow in the daylight, the hg wasnt even stuck to the block camo out loose.

now all i got left is pass side exh manifold and head and gotta rent tool to pull the valves
 
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...i know arp is the way to go but just too much money right now...

I still maintain that the ARP's are the only way to go, considering how difficult it is to dig down to the heads on these things. The problem is that these engines are designed with only 8 head bolt locations per deck. That is a marginal design. Pile inferior bolts on top of that, and you're flirting with disaster. These engines are supercharged and see high cylinder pressures. I'd do without some external or periphial components that can be easily reached later, and spend the money on the ARP's now. Borrow the money if you need to...

JD
 
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