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View Full Version : New Slave Cyl & Clutch - what else?



Colo Bird
06-28-2007, 08:46 PM
I'm replacing the clutch on my 89 SC with an OEM Luk clutch kit including the slave cylinder because the slave is leaking fluid. Shop manual recommends changing the master cylinder but that seems to be fine. I have ~93,000 miles on the car. Should I replace the master cylinder? Also, I will check the flywheel and probably resurface it. Might need to shim the slave if I take off more than 0.025" from what I've read here.

Anything else I should do while the clutch & tranny is out? Rear main oil seal?

BTW, the OEM Luk clutch has held up very well and I wouldn't need to do anything yet if it weren't for the slave leaking.

Thanks for any tips.

Kevin Varnes
06-28-2007, 09:03 PM
If it were me and the master cylinder was working fine I'd leave it. Do the pilot bearing while you are in there. Just my opinion, but I'd say if the rear main isn't leaking and looks okay then leave it.

tbirdaj
06-28-2007, 10:17 PM
I'd say if the rear main isn't leaking and looks okay then leave it.

$15.00 part why not change it while you can get to it.

JimmyMan13
06-29-2007, 12:22 PM
cause if its not leaking and you nick the shaft taking it out that would be dumb

garsc
06-29-2007, 02:43 PM
Definatly change the rear main seal it is cheap insurance. As long as you remove it correctly there is no reason to expect damage. Dont remove it with a sledge hammer :eek:

jonroe
06-29-2007, 03:15 PM
When I did the slave and clutch in January I put in a new flywheel for little more than the cost of resurfacing.

Colo Bird
06-29-2007, 11:39 PM
Thanks for the feedback.

We pulled the tranny today and replaced the rear main seal and pilot bearing. The hydraulic fitting on the slave cylinder was a major ~~~~ to remove although we ended up making the removal tool from some scap iron plate. The flywheel was still in good shape since the friction disc wasn't completely worn so it was simply polished up. Inspected the motor mounts up close (the OEM fluid filled type that collapsed long ago) and will try to replace them tomorrow with solid mounts since the access is much better with the tranny and cat converters removed. May even try to change the plugs from below.

Need to fill the transmission with fresh fluid. The shop manual for the 89 SC says Dexron II (now III) ATF with a friction modifier additive. May need to go to Ford for the friction modifier.

tbirdaj
06-29-2007, 11:49 PM
Thanks for the feedback.

We pulled the tranny today and replaced the rear main seal and pilot bearing. The hydraulic fitting on the slave cylinder was a major ~~~~ to remove although we ended up making the removal tool from some scap iron plate. The flywheel was still in good shape since the friction disc wasn't completely worn so it was simply polished up. Inspected the motor mounts up close (the OEM fluid filled type that collapsed long ago) and will try to replace them tomorrow with solid mounts since the access is much better with the tranny and cat converters removed. May even try to change the plugs from below.

Need to fill the transmission with fresh fluid. The shop manual for the 89 SC says Dexron II (now III) ATF with a friction modifier additive. May need to go to Ford for the friction modifier.


The flywheel should not have a "polished" finish on it. It should have the same finish as a brand new or freshly turned brake rotor.

Colo Bird
06-30-2007, 12:42 AM
The flywheel should not have a "polished" finish on it. It should have the same finish as a brand new or freshly turned brake rotor.

By polished, I meant I took some steel wool to it similar to "scotchbrite" pads. Same thing I have used to remove burned on brake pad material from the surface of brake rotors.