Maybe DIS???

1Fast93

Registered User
Hey Guys!
I recently rebuilt my 93 tbird sc, and had trouble getting it to run correctly. I found that I (very stupidly) forgot to hook up the main feed line to the vaccuum tree, and that my exhaust manifolds weren't bolted up correctly to the down tubes. (so, I assumed the O2 sensors weren't getting a good reading) When I went fire the car up, it ran really rough(like it was missing), but it didn't smoke and didn't over heat. I had to start the car several times and rev it up to 2,000 and then it would kick up to 3,000 and smooth out. I drove the car around for about two weeks and everything worked great. Then, I took the car to get the exhaust done and when I went to pick her up, the CEL didn't come on with the ignition in the RUN position, but started just fine. I got it home and drove it for two days after that, and one afternoon i was cruising down the street at about 1,000 -1,500 rpm and then the CEL light came on and started running very rough and it accelerated very very slowly. It was hard to get over 20mph. Now if I put the key in the RUN position the CEL sometimes comes on, the Firm Ride light comes on sometimes, and the Seat belt warning light comes on sometimes. It's hardly ever that all three come on at the same time. The car will occationally run correctly, but when I rev it, the rpm's don't fall as quickly as it should. (The rpms drop real slow and kinda hang out at 1,200 for a few seconds and then falls to 700) I really don't know where to start with the car, so I was hoping you guys could lead me in the right direction. Thanks and hope to here from you soon.

P.s.- I had the blocked bored .020 over.
Any questions just let me know.:D
 
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Ok, I will see what I can do. One other thing, I went out this morning and started the car, and it fired up great, but two or three seconds later it started running really rough. so, it seems to me that the car only runs correctly when it warmed up. Would that have anything do to with my O2 sensors? And would temperature affect the way they perform?

Thanks!
Dave

By the way.....My new cats are now purple
 
i think u may be running a bit too hot or too lean. if ur cats are turning that colorful acid rain lookin color, they've been getting too hot.

my altima's brand new cat turned that color and ultimately failed from having a bad water pump and cracked radiator. funny thing is , i never noticed the gauge go higher than usual.

first things first, try and pull codes.
 
I agree with you, I have not noticed the car running any hotter than normal. But I will pull the codes as soon as I can. What exactly is the diffence between KOEO & KOER
 
you should check ignition switch under dash

you should check ignition switch under dash first. This just happened to me, lost power to some instrument indicator lights, and the radio and windows didnt work unless I played with key position , then it would work, What happens is the ignition switch will spread apart over time. you may try moving around your harness while key is on to see if this does anything. Fix this problem before you buy a new dis module, because this will possibly fry the new dis module.
 
DIS module, MAF, and IAC sound like they are all playing tricks on you. Are you SURE you took the time to get all of the ground wires tight?

Chris

P.S. The ignition swithces were junk if they had the black insert in them. Check to see if that is the case with yours.
 
Alright... Well, I finally pulled some codes from the car. I only got a few because my girlfriend (my little helper) got a little overwhelmed and accedentally erased the memory. So, this is all I got.
KOEO:
215- Ignition system problem- Coil #1 primary side circuit failed.

KOER:
113- ACT - signal voltage too high.

538- Insufficient RPM change during Dynamic Response Test(Engine Run Self-Test)
or,
Invalid cylinder balance test - throttle position movement
or,
Invalid cylinder balance test - sylinder identifaction problems.

Thanks,
Dave

P.S. Let me know what you guys think. OH! my Cats were glowing RED by the end of the test...?! Runnin' real lean!?
 
DIS module, MAF, and IAC sound like they are all playing tricks on you. Are you SURE you took the time to get all of the ground wires tight?

Chris

P.S. The ignition swithces were junk if they had the black insert in them. Check to see if that is the case with yours.

When you say "black insert" you do mean where you put the key in right? :rolleyes: If you do, that is what mine is. I'm sure it is the original switch that came with the car.

Thanks guys,
Dave

Any suggestions on what I should do? I go back to college soon, and don't have a car to get there!
 
Everyone,

I just wanted to give all of you a little bit more info on the car, that I hope is related to the problem I am already having. Hmmmm where to start...

Problems:

- Climate Control Face doesn't light up
- Driving Lights don't come on
- Headlights turn off if I move the turn signal switch
- Instrument cluster doesn't light up ( does a little but can't really see )
- Gear Indicator doesn't light up
- Warning Lights sometimes come on
- Warning Whissle goes off if I leave the key in RUN, but starts to ding if I wiggle the ignition switch.
- ANTILOCK light comes on sometimes while driving
- FIRM RIDE light blinks a few times (doesn't always work right)
- DOOR AJAR doesn't come on if door is open.
- Really hot exhaust, but motor isn't running too hot.
- Oil temperature gauge works for a few seconds, then dies.

Thanks again guys,
Dave
 
When you pull out the ignition switch, you will see where the bar goes that activates the switch. If it is back, you need a new switch. It SHOULD be black with the older cars. I think everything pre-95 was. If the entire switch is the off white color that the rest of the switch is, look for burning inside the connector.

Chris
 
Okay... Well, I will see what I can do.

Thanks everyone for your help,
Dave

Would you guys like me to post pictures or vidoes of the car?
 
Work about to be done.

Hey guys,

I am ordering a new DIS module, Coil Pack, and ignition switch. The DIS and Coil are easy to swap out, but can you guys give me any pointers or expectations I should consider while I am swapping out the old switch. Are there any other areas of the car I should look into that may be the cause of the problems I am having.

I have also heard that a bad coolant sensor could be the cause of my particular problem. My engine coolant sensor isn't bad, but oil temperature gauge is. (may just be sending unit) It will come on for about two seconds while I am driving and then it will fall to zero. Any ideas?

Thanks,
David
 
Can you guys help me out?

(If you need to look, all of my questions are back on page one)

Thanks,
Dave
 
well the coil 1 primary ciruit failure i wanna say is a bad DIS.

whenever u swap the DIS(use heat sink underneath), coil pack and ignition switch out let us know.
 
Well, I took the underside of the dash apart today, and a few things I really didn't want to. It looks like someboby broke into the car, before I owned it, and tried to hot wire the car. Three wires off the ignition switch were cut into and then put back together with electrical tape, and the wires to my antitheft unit were cut.

There seems to be a ground wire connected to the metal support above the fuse panel that was cut, I can find the other end of that wire.

My key tumbler is very loose, do you think I should replace it? What should I do about the wire that were cut into? What is that ground for?

Dave
 
the only thing u can do is re-splice the wires.

i think a new key tumbler is about $40-45 at advance auto. would be a nice investment.

the ground may be for the fuse block itself.


what else are u going to be replacing ?
 
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Ground

I think you are having some ground wire issues. You need to clean the battery posts and cable ends, check the other end of the ground lead at the engine block and make sure it is clean and tight. the engine should have some straps for grounding the engine to the rest of the car ,these need to be there as well. systematically go through all the major wiring and make sure all connections are clean and tight . especially if you just did some major work something may not be connected properly. just my 2 cents.
 
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