Finally Running!!! Little Iffy...

1Fast93

Registered User
Hey fellow T-Bird lovers!

I finally got my 93bird running, but I have a few concerns and I was wondering if you could help. Inorder to get the car running again I revved it to 2,500rpm for a little and then it kicked up to 3,500rpm and slowly smoothed itself out. :confused: So, my problem is this... If I have the car in park or neutral and rev it, the rpms stay high and fall very slow. Once it reaches 1,200rpm it stays there for two or three seconds and then falls to about 700rpm. Also, when i put the car in gear (D) it sounds like the car is about to die and then it evens itself outthe idle picks up to about 500rpm. So, what do you think the problem is? Is it the computer just trying to relearn idle? Or is it possible that I have sensors going bad??

Thanks,
Dave
 
a cheap fix that is a common problem on the sc's is the idle air control valve(IAC) when mine went out it would rev to about 2000 rpm or so then would go down once i got rolling into gear.
 
Yeah you make a good point. I unhooked the sensor with the car running the other day and it died... If the senor is already bad wouldn't shut off every time i tried to start it? One other thing, I went out this morning and started the car, and it fired up great, but two or three seconds later it started running really rough. So, it seems to me that the car only runs correctly when it's warmed up. Would that have anything do to with my O2 sensors? And would temperature affect the way they perform?

Thanks!
Dave

By the way.....My new cats are now purple
 
well if you unplug the sensor it shouldnt run, and i dont think the o2 sensors will give you the problem you are having. id check for codes if any.

id look into the IAC after you do that, revving high sounds like an iac
 
Iac

wheres that IAC valve located? what does it look like? i think im having the same problem
 
Actually, if you unplug the sensor with the car off and then start it, it should run. It may take a little feathering of the throttle until the idle smooths out, but it should be able to hold an idle of around 500-600 rpm without the IAC helping out. If it can't, then your minimum idle is set too low. Don't try to unplug it while the car is running, as the computer will work against you and make it impossible to fine-tune.
 
Alright... Well, I finally pulled some codes from the car. I only got a few because my girlfriend (my little helper) got a little overwhelmed and accedentally erased the memory. So, this is all I got.
KOEO:
215- Ignition system problem- Coil #1 primary side circuit failed.

KOER:
113- ACT - signal voltage too high.

538- Insufficient RPM change during Dynamic Response Test(Engine Run Self-Test)
or,
Invalid cylinder balance test - throttle position movement
or,
Invalid cylinder balance test - sylinder identifaction problems.

Thanks,
Dave

P.S. Let me know what you guys think. OH! my Cats were glowing RED by the end of the test...?! Runnin' real lean!?:mad:
 
Everyone,

I just wanted to give all of you a little bit more info on the car, that I hope is related to the problem I am already having. Hmmmm where to start...

Problems:

- Climate Control Face doesn't light up
- Driving Lights don't come on
- Headlights turn off if I move the turn signal switch
- Instrument cluster doesn't light up ( does a little but can't really see )
- Gear Indicator doesn't light up
- Warning Lights sometimes come on
- Warning Whissle goes off if I leave the key in RUN, but starts to ding if I wiggle the ignition switch.
- ANTILOCK light comes on sometimes while driving
- FIRM RIDE light blinks a few times (doesn't always work right)
- DOOR AJAR doesn't come on if door is open.
- Really hot exhaust, but motor isn't running too hot.
- Oil temperature gauge works for a few seconds, then dies.

Thanks again guys,
Dave
 
It sounds like you have a major wiring short and a bad misfire. Glowing cats can happen because of a misfire, causing a really rich mixture to fly right into the cats and combust there.

As for the wiring short, I would recommend that you carefully check these two trouble spots:

1.) The underhood light connector and wiring. I have heard of this causing some nasty problems.

2.) A splice underneath the driver's side sill panel or carpet. There is a thread about this repair somewhere on here.

Good luck!
 
start with ignition switch under the steering column

start with the ignition switch under the steering column, sounds like you are
losing power to alot of devices. Switch tends to split apart over the years.
I pressed mine together and rebent the tabs, but now I dont have fire to coil
2and 5 from the dis module, so It now could be burnt up by voltage spike from bad ignition switch connection. apparently the ignition ground runs thru the dis module base into the dis mounting bracket, should have zero resistance between these two. You will lose this ground wire connection
and other ones if the ignition switch separates. Its not the connector going
into the switch, that is fine. Its the actual ignition switch separating. not the key tumbler dont touch that, you dont need to take the steering wheel off either. you have to remove panels and I also had to remove steering column (4 nuts under dash)because the switch is held on by 2 torx screws and my bit was too long. good luck
 
It sounds like you have a major wiring short and a bad misfire. Glowing cats can happen because of a misfire, causing a really rich mixture to fly right into the cats and combust there.

As for the wiring short, I would recommend that you carefully check these two trouble spots:

1.) The underhood light connector and wiring. I have heard of this causing some nasty problems.

2.) A splice underneath the driver's side sill panel or carpet. There is a thread about this repair somewhere on here.

Good luck!

I have the underhood light connector unhooked. Could that still be an issue?
It looks like the previous owner already took the steering column apart because all the pieces don't like up right, and there are a few screws missing from a few panels.

Should I go ahead and get a new DIS and Coil just to be safe?

Thanks,
David
 
The cats are glowing red but the exhaust manifolds aren't?

I had a problem where my car would idle high and it was the IAC, it had a torn diaphragm. The TPS said the car was at idle so it only supplied enough fuel to keep idle, then the IAC was letting more air past the throttle blade but the computer never saw that extra air. It leaned out the mixture bad and the headers were glowing red in like 2 minutes. I couldn't even drive the car. Spent $95 at ford for an IAC and it ran and idled fine.

Also I'd check for a vac leak. Your multi-function switch has a short if the headlights blink when you bump it. That's a fire hazzard so you know.
 
I am not sure if the manifolds were too. I just saw smoke comming from underneath the car, and that is when I saw that the cats were glowing. I didn't even bother checking if the manifolds were too.
 
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