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VINCES
07-15-2007, 10:32 AM
Is there any other shifter option besides B&M? Does hurst make one for the SC? Any others?

Scott Long
07-15-2007, 11:57 AM
As for the base of the shifter that mounts to the transmission, B&M ripper is the only option. You have to re-use your upper shaft and knob. You can get a different upper shaft, I used to have the angled back one from UPR Products and it was for a mustang but worked. I also had a carbon fiber Hurst short knob on it and used a black leather MOMO boot. I bought my ripper shortly after they came out and I love it. I have the revised one without the adjustable stops, but it shifts great. My stock shifter was so sloppy it could move while in gear and it was very loose and hard to find some of the gears. The bottom stock parts were all worn or missing.

I know have the stock upper shaft with a B&M polished T-handle (was for standard thread and ours is metric thread, so I had to wrap a ton of teflon tape around the shaft, soak it with red loc-tite, and then setup the t-handle where I wanted it. It was fine the next day after it dried over night. I've only had it come loose once in the past 4 years, and that was because it got kicked.... long story. More loc-tite solved the problem.

You can even cut the stock upper shaft and remove a chunk of it, weld it back together to shorten the height of the shifter, but I didn't need to because with the T-Handle knob it's not very tall. Just remember that the shorter you make the shaft, the less leverage you have to make the shift. It looks nice low, but since this car's shifter is directly connected to the transmission you will increase the effort it takes to shift it.

If I get another knob for my 5-speed car it's going to be a t-handle with the button for the line lock kit I plan to install. Hurst t-handles come in the metric thread and fit fine. B&M as far as I know only makes them in the standard thread. But I wanted B&M since I have the B&M ripper.

Mike8675309
07-15-2007, 09:03 PM
If you're serious about a B&M, you could just have the thread drilled out and put a threaded insert in there with a metric thread.

The other option for the shifter is rebuild the stocker. Parts are getting scarce but the major ones are still available. Search around and I believe someone posted the info.

txsc
07-15-2007, 11:04 PM
As stated, the rebuild parts for the stock shifters are readily available and cheap. And, the stock shifter feels pretty good with a fresh rebuild. The only part that is unavailable is the internal boot. Here's a thread showing how I modified a Ranger piece (available at Ford) to work on our shifters:

http://www.sccoa.com/forums/showthread.php?t=87878&highlight=shifter+rebuild

Others have covered the rest of the shifter rebuild elsewhere. It can all be done for less than half the cost of the B&M.

Just another option...

JD

T-bird Tim
07-16-2007, 09:59 AM
I installed the ripper shifter in mine this weekend. I didnt think my stock one was that bad until I felt how good it was with the new shifter. It is without a doubt some of the best money I have spent on my SC. Night and day difference.

txsc
07-16-2007, 12:35 PM
Yes, the stock shifters are terrible when they're worn out. But a rebuilt OEM piece is also night-and-day different from a worn out one. But, the B&M can take more abuse.

JD

VINCES
07-17-2007, 12:05 AM
I had put a B&M in my '95 a few years back, but sold the car....sold it to Ed Stewart, he was a member, pics still there...he later sold it.

I just bought a '94 stick in Georgia, and it needs a shifter bad. Drove it 900 miles to PA same day. TRans was very whiney to, but shifted fine, minus the sloppy shifter. Don;t remember my 95 making a lot of noise from trans though.

An old friend of mine works at a Lincoln merc dealer, and is looking for the parts before i buy my second B&M.

thanks

Scott Long
07-17-2007, 04:49 PM
Drain it and fill it with synthetic ATF. That's what I have in my M5R2. You fill it through the shifter mount anyhow.

VINCES
07-17-2007, 05:32 PM
its been a few years, i thought there was a plug on side?

Kevin Varnes
07-17-2007, 05:45 PM
There is a drain plug and a fill plug on the side of the transmission. Some choose to fill through the shifter hole. The other option is to run a hose from the fill hole up to a funnel in the engine compartment and fill that way.

The other other option is what I have been doing. I've got a hand pump that screws onto an oil bottle. You stick the hose from the hand pump in the fill hole and pump until fluid dribbles out the fill hole.

VINCES
07-17-2007, 06:14 PM
yes, used to use a hand pump until it reached threads.

My ford buddy found some of parts to rebild, minus a spring and boot...he put on search

txsc
07-17-2007, 07:22 PM
yes, used to use a hand pump until it reached threads.

My ford buddy found some of parts to rebild, minus a spring and boot...he put on search

The spring should be easy. Not the boot. I did a nation-wide search a few months ago. They are made from "unobtainium"; none left in captivity. See my thread, above, for how to easily modify a Ranger part.

IF he finds some stashed somewhere, let me know. I'll buy several.

Thanks,

JD

VINCES
07-18-2007, 12:30 PM
A while back, i thought i saw a trhead about modifying the Ranger or F150 spring that isn't available....does anyone remember?

Is the Ranger boot a better fit than the F150 boot?

I passed along the part # for the Ranger one, thanks....

txsc
07-18-2007, 04:34 PM
A while back, i thought i saw a trhead about modifying the Ranger or F150 spring that isn't available....does anyone remember?

Is the Ranger boot a better fit than the F150 boot?

I passed along the part # for the Ranger one, thanks....

I was able to get everything except the boot right across the Ford parts counter; bushings, shims, spring. I don't know about the F150 piece. I'd assume that it's the same as, or similar to, the Ranger part, but don't know for sure. I ended up with the Ranger part, because the parts guy had one in stock, and I was able to match it up to my original.

Good Luck,

JD

VINCES
07-18-2007, 04:37 PM
he told me these two were unavailable...
spring E9SZ-7G046-A. no longer available
New boot E9SZ-7277-A no longer available

VINCES
07-18-2007, 05:44 PM
does anyone remember the thread about the Ranger spring for the one not available for the SC? i can't find it!!!!! I thought it said to cut it or something?????????????? Or does it just fit right from Ford? Or can i resue if not too bad?

kendall221
07-18-2007, 08:44 PM
Here's a link for instructions on the shifter rebuild.

http://www.frontiernet.net/~miketoni/images/tbird/M5R2%20Shifter%20Rebuild.htm

I recently was able to get all the parts except the boot. I bought a boot for the F-150 on ebay and plan to modify it if mine is split. I haven't taken it apart to see yet. Search on "m5r2" on ebay to find it. Also, you can search for the parts using www.partsvoice.com to find any that have gone obsolete.

Additional information.

I just finished rebuilding my shifter. It was quite easy. At 166000 miles, it was very loose and rattled around. When I opened up the shifter, there wasn't much inside.....After the rebuild, the shifter is now very smooth with no up/down play in it. I agree with TXSC...The rebuild instructions are good, but DO NOT split the lower bushing in half. Follow his instructions instead.

txsc
07-18-2007, 09:21 PM
Here's a link for instructions on the shifter rebuild.

http://www.frontiernet.net/~miketoni/images/tbird/M5R2%20Shifter%20Rebuild.htm

I recently was able to get all the parts except the boot. I bought a boot for the F-150 on ebay and plan to modify it if mine is split. I haven't taken it apart to see yet. Search on "m5r2" on ebay to find it. Also, you can search for the parts using www.partsvoice.com to find any that have gone obsolete.

I was also able to get everything from Ford except the boot.

As far as the rebuild instructions go, it's pretty good. However, instead of splitting my lower bushing in half (didn't think it was a good idea), I used a soft punch, and drove the two alignment pins back out of the bore. After cleaning, I placed the new lower bushing in place, and tapped the alignment pins back into position. This seems like a much better way to get the lower bushing in place. It's already fragile enough, without breaking it in two right off the bat!

JD

Pit Bird
07-19-2007, 02:34 AM
Has anyone tried this place for the boot ????http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/FORD-THUNDERBIRD-84-88-THUNDERBIRD-SC-TAURUS-SHO-89-95_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQcategoryZ33703QQihZ012QQitemZ 220131958008QQrdZ1

garsc
07-19-2007, 08:04 AM
The boot they are referring to is the small rubber seal that seals outside dirt from entering the tranny from outside the car, not the dust boot that keeps dirt out of the inside of the car.

VINCES
07-19-2007, 08:38 AM
TSCX, the link you sent, doesn't show spring E9SZ7G046A beng used at all????? What's the substitute?

fast Ed
07-19-2007, 12:53 PM
That's a bit farther down in the assembly, and shouldn't usually need to be replaced. It is obsolete from Ford as well.


cheers
Ed N.

VINCES
07-19-2007, 01:37 PM
I put a Ripper in my '95 back in 2003 i believe....so it's been a while, forget exactly what the works look like.

CAn the loose shifter cause a whining noise, or am i looking at synchros, or at the least, a fluid issue?

VINCES
07-19-2007, 01:52 PM
i guess the plastic sockets are the main issue, followed by he shims deteriorating? possibly the sping ending in 120-A too?

sinhumane
09-04-2007, 04:42 PM
theres a part number for the spring, e8tz-7z120-A.. it gave teh guy an alternate.