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View Full Version : Engine: Main Bearings and Master Cylinder Help



MassSC
07-25-2007, 09:11 AM
Guys, I could use a little help!

I have the engine out of my 1990 SC and on a stand. I removed the oil pan to inspect the bottom end because the guy I bought the car from told me he blew the head gasket. When we torn it down, it had the tell tale signs of coolant in the oil pan. I pulled the caps off and found that the main bearings are starting to show copper so I want to replace them, and have never done this before. Any advice for this amateur would be greatly appreciated.

I also noticed during tear down that the connector that goes into the bottom of the master cylinder reservoir had broken off. This piece has a small circuit board attached to it. I guess Iíll have to replace the reservoir, is this possible or do I have to replace the whole m/c unit?

Thanks,

Paul

Mike8675309
07-25-2007, 01:23 PM
Is the broken master cylinder part metal or plastic? If just plastic, you should be able to replace the reservoir , though I believe they are only available used.

I would suggest doing rod and main bearings since you have the pan out. You'll want to measure the journals, vs the cap without the crank in it to find out how much clearance there is. Oversize bearings should be available if you need to go over. For a stock replacement, just pickup some Federal Mogul or Clevite bearings. Federal Mogul also has seal kits that get you head gaskets, engine rear seal, engine front seal, timing cover gasket, etc...

MassSC
07-25-2007, 01:45 PM
Mike,

Thanks for the advice!

The broken piece is plastic and I have a parts car I can get a reservoir from. I just wasn't sure if just the reservoir could be replaced. Do you just pry it off?

When I pulled the caps off, the bearings looked pretty good but were just starting to show small signs of copper. The journals looked good as well with no marks at all. I was hoping I could just replace the bearings without taking the HB and crank out. Is this possible, and if so how? I didn't check the rod bearings, but since I have the pan off and you recommend it I will. Can they be replaced without pulling the pistons out, and if so how?

Paul

mywhite89
07-25-2007, 02:16 PM
Mike,

Thanks for the advice!

The broken piece is plastic and I have a parts car I can get a reservoir from. I just wasn't sure if just the reservoir could be replaced. Do you just pry it off?

When I pulled the caps off, the bearings looked pretty good but were just starting to show small signs of copper. The journals looked good as well with no marks at all. I was hoping I could just replace the bearings without taking the HB and crank out. Is this possible, and if so how? I didn't check the rod bearings, but since I have the pan off and you recommend it I will. Can they be replaced without pulling the pistons out, and if so how?

Paul


Paul, good to see you have decided to do this yourself. You will have to pull the crankshaft out either way you look at it.
The next thing is, you don't want to have to do it twice because you decided not to replace something now. Those things always end up coming back to bite you anyways.

I recommend having the crankshaft checked at a machine shop to make sure it is ok. Then you'll figure out if you you can use standard bearings or if you'll need to re-grind the crank and use undersized bearings.

You don't have to pull the pistons out, but you really should do this and at least replace the rings.

Buy the full upper and lower rebuild kit and do it right the first time.:)

Chris

MassSC
07-25-2007, 02:23 PM
I agree 100%. I would really like to do things right the first time, but I've heard horror stories about removing the HB. That's what I'm trying to avoid if possible.

mywhite89
07-25-2007, 02:28 PM
I agree 100%. I would really like to do things right the first time, but I've heard horror stories about removing the HB. That's what I'm trying to avoid if possible.

The horror story is because the harmonic balancer itself is junk and needs replaced anyways. You can rent a remove/install tool from advanced auto.

MassSC
07-25-2007, 02:48 PM
Thanks for the advice, I really appreciate it! ;)

Mike8675309
07-25-2007, 09:42 PM
If you want the car to last I wouldn't do it.
If you're just trying to get it running to sell it to someone, I wouldn't do it.

But if you want, you could get new bearings, slide the bottom half off one, rotate the new one in, doing one at a time.

Rod bearings you just push the piston up, turn the crank so you can get the bearing out, then pull the piston back down and rotate the crank up to put the rod cap on. The rod caps need to go back on the same rod, with the same orientation.

If you don't need the car for a few weeks and you can afford it, it makes so much more sense to have the motor re-built properly.

Tickler
07-25-2007, 10:45 PM
Damperdoctor.com sells excellent rebuilt balancers, if your balancers in one peice it should only cost $150 plus shipping to and from CA.

If the crank looks spec,and you decide to just sneak in the bearings, try using some plastiguage when you bolt on the main caps.

http://www.damperdoctor.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Store_Code=DD&Product_Code=FOR3.8&Category_Code=FOR

Just a thought.

A1cntrler
07-25-2007, 11:22 PM
I got my damper from damper dr. Haven't installed it yet, but it sure looks pretty in the box :rolleyes:

pastera
07-26-2007, 09:29 PM
Thanks for the advice, I really appreciate it! ;)

I have the tools over in Somerset of you need them to pull and install the balancer. If you want them, pick up/drop off or I can ship them if you pay the shipping (drop a check in the box when shipping back).

I also have a removed in good condition damper if anyone needs one for a core.

Aaron

MassSC
07-26-2007, 11:34 PM
Aaron,

Thanks I appreciate it, and I think I'll take you up on your offer. You have a PM with my contact info.

Paul