window motors?

sinhumane

sinhumane

Registered User
do window motors become weak over time? the passenger side on my 95 sc sometimes hesitates to roll down.. gets stuck, etc... when i had teh door panel off, i sprayed doen the tracks and hinges with some white lithium junk.. and it helped a bit... the scissor assembly was also covered in surface rust... so, should i just replace the entire assembly? is tehre a way of getting that door bracing off to replace the motor?
 
The window lift motors are really easy to replace. It might help. I don't remember if my tracks had surface rust on them or not but, as long as the slides are lubed it shouldn't matter.

To replace the motors, roll the window up, take off panel. Remove speaker, stick your hand through the speaker hole and hold the motor, remove three 10mm screws, unplug electrical connector, remove the motor through the speaker hole. Installation is reverse of removal.

I got my motors for like $85/ea. at Auto Zone with a lifetime warranty.
 
yeah, i'm thinking i'm just gonna get everything out, remove all the surface rust and replace teh motor on both sides, and in the process, install auto down modules... get 'em working nice... lol. its hard to look cool when your windows wont roll smooth. :D
 
I've done quite a few plug replacements on these motors.....:rolleyes:

There is one thing that puzzles me......

When I dig out all the chunks of plastic from the old plugs, they don't add up (in mass) to the three new plugs that are installed......

Where do the missing pieces go.......:confused:
 
the-big-e said:
I've done quite a few plug replacements on these motors.....:rolleyes:

There is one thing that puzzles me......

When I dig out all the chunks of plastic from the old plugs, they don't add up (in mass) to the three new plugs that are installed......

Where do the missing pieces go.......:confused:
Click to expand...


It's like a wise man once said about crumbs...
 
None2Slow said:
Before actually buying new motors, pull the motor cover off and see what itlooks like inside. They have nylon bushings that break down over time. asically crumble and gum up the gears. You used to be able to buy a kit to repair this for $25.

Found this at Autozone.com

http://www.autozone.com/selectedZip...itialvehicleId,1775901/shopping/selectZip.htm
Click to expand...

Or sometimes in the HELP! (that has got to be the coolest section of the parts store BTW) you can find the "plugs"(cam buttons I think is the proper term) for a few bucks in boxes of 3... This doesn't have the big gear though. May or may not need it.
 
"Window Regulator Gear Plugs". That is almost certainly your problem. NAPA sells them too.

By the way, I am pretty sure that the plugs are hollow. So that might explain your missing mass.
 
What slows the windows down more than anything is the felt wearing off the rubber guide strips and tracks for the window. As the felt wears off, the window drags harder which assists in crumbling the plugs.
 
Take some car wax & wax down your inside window wipe it clean then try it....
this will tell you where the hold up is.
 
I was just going to go down to the local pull a part and see if I can find one this weekend for my passenger window.
 
my windows are having issues too, if its cool outside my drivers window rolls down fine but once it heats up it like grunts like "ra ra ra ra ra" and doesnt move but i can help it up and down and just a few days ago my pass window did same thing and hasnt gone down since unless i help it weather its warm or cold any insight?
 
had the same prob with my 90sc, went to the junkyard and pulled 4, 2of3 worked and fixed the prob, it only takes about 25-35min the replace them and only cost me $35 for 4 of them. the worst part was getting the doorlock stem to weed back into the door panel,that took about 3min.
 
this is a little rough ,but this is what i did
the wood i used was birch ,however im sure you could all-most use what ever
i don't remember if this is a ford ,but the idea is the same
cheers
yes ,laughs are welcome
steve
 

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I have heard of it being done with oak dowels as well and lasted a guy almost 10 years, which is when he sold the Bronco. As far as he knew, it was still holding.
 
As A1Cntrler mentioned, I believe I found my cam buttons for the motor at AdvanceAuto Parts in the Help! section. I am pretty certain they were under $10.

I removed the door panel and speaker, cut some small slits in the watershield over the holes where the mounting bolts for the motor were located (I believe there is a template in one of the other posts or a link to another site that has a template) so I wouldn't have to peel it loose from the door, disconnected the electrical connector(s), and pulled the motor out the speaker opening in the door.

It took me longer to clean the plastic shrapnel of the disintegrated cam buttons out of the motor than it did to remove and replace it. Make sure you thoroghly remove all of the old grease in the motor (I found a lot of old grease contaminated with chunks of plastic in the worm gear cavity). I believe I used carburetor parts cleaner or brake parts cleaner and let it thorougly dry before reassembly.

When reassembling, I put tape over the slits in the watershield to keep it sealed, sprayed the tracks/felt with silicone and they have worked like a champ ever since. Ever now and then I see a little smudge of the silicone lubricant on the glass but it is easily cleaned off and is well worth the smooth operation.

Ted
 
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