Sudden multiple problems - one source?

Although I've had to have some fixit work done since my '92 SC 5-speed had sat for quite some time before I bought it, I loved driving it 90 miles to work & back every day. A couple months ago my employer gave me a company car to drive to work and to our branches as needed. Although it was hard to leave the Bird at home, company-paid gas & expenses are hard to turn down. I would drive it at least once a week or weekend to keep it going, but wondered how much might go wrong if not driven regularly. As I pulled it to the curb at home a couple of weeks ago I went to put the power antenna down as usual, to help keep someone from snapping it, but the switch went mushy. It appears that the bottom of the switch has come apart and/or pushed in towards the dash, as I can hear the motor going when I press the Up side, but nothing on the Down side. Does the switch pop out towards the front? It appears that a couple of tab slots would allow this.

However, next weekend I started it up and got just down the street when I realized that things weren't working right! The ABS & Brake lights stayed on, the A/C (including fan, display, etc.) & turn signals didn't work at all and the brakes were getting hard to push. I turned around, parked it and took the company Five Hundred. I've checked the fuses on the kick panel and underhood & all look good. Circuit breakers I can't obviously check w/o equipment. I pulled the antenna/radio fuse in case there is something wrong with the wiring around the antenna switch. So far that's all I can see that isn't working or is wrong, but what might cause all of those problems at the same time? (Seats/windows/moonroof/belts/lights ok.) Switch/wiring shorted something out?

Any ideas would be appreciated! I don't have the time, knowledge, tools or equipment to do anything that really gets into anything heavy or start tearing things apart, but I can check some easy stuff. I don't see anything obviously smoked, burned or melted in the engine compartment and don't smell anything burned or smoky inside.

Thanks in advance!

The plastic in our cars is getting hard and brittle which would explain possibly the problem with the antenna switch.

As for the other probs. I'd start looking at the ignition switch in the steering column. They go bad on our cars and the symptons are like your describing.
Have you ever had it replaced?

I would agree, start with the ignition switch.

Thanks for the suggestions! No, I have not had the ignition switch replaced in the year I've owned the car, so can start there. (Lots of other, expensive stuff, but not that! LOL) How user-friendly is R&R? Probably a job for a shop, huh?

Will the antenna switch pop out the front of the dash to fix or replace?

Use a small flat screw driver and gently pry each end of the switch out.....

I use two pieces of coathanger material and flaten the ends with a hammer to make a nifty pry tool.....

another vote for ignitin switch...

brdman2 said:

Thanks for the suggestions! No, I have not had the ignition switch replaced in the year I've owned the car, so can start there. (Lots of other, expensive stuff, but not that! LOL) How user-friendly is R&R? Probably a job for a shop, huh?

Will the antenna switch pop out the front of the dash to fix or replace?

Click to expand...

Others have responded with good information regarding your antenna switch question. The ignition switch is a pretty easy job. You must remove the column shroud assembly to expose the switch.

Start by removing the plastic trim collar behind the steering wheel. On the left hand side of the collar, you can see the joint where it comes together. Pull directly out, away from the column (to the left) on each end to snap loose from the retainer. After it's loose, twist the trim collar and slide it free of the column. It won't break, even though it may seem as though it would.

Next locate three screw holes on the bottom of the lower column shroud. These are in fairly deep holes, and contain long phillips-head screws. Simply locate and remove these three screws. Then separate the upper and lower shroud housing pieces, and remove from the column (they snap together to hold them in place during assembly). You may have to adjust the tilt column to make it easier to remove the upper shroud.

This will expose the ignition switch on the right hand side of the column, a few inches down from the key lock assembly. This is the only place that will require a special tool. The switch is held in place with anti-tamper Torx head screws that require a special bit. These should be available at Sears, or some parts stores, for a nominal cost. I think I've even seen them at Harbor Freight.

Due to clearance problems with the dash, put the bit in a 1/4 socket with a ratchet and remove the two screws. The switch will then come free from the column. Simply unplug the connector and remove the switch. Your's may fall apart if it's bad; that's a common problem.

Simply reverse the procedure to assemble. Just manipulate the housings and collar to get them all back in place tightly without any gaps. It goes pretty easy.

A first-timer should set aside about an hour; veterans can knock one out in 20 minutes or so. If you decide to take it somewhere, don't let them charge you any more than 1 hour's labor. Also keep an eye on them so they don't skin up your trim parts.

Good Luck,

JD

Great help & suggestions - thanks so much! I'm already spending the money I'm saving on gas, so I was hoping not to have to drop a bundle on repairs, but this sounds doable as long as I can get the parts.

Keep 'em spinnin'!

P.S. Guess someone got tired of egging the SC and turned their attention to my company 500 parked in front of it. First eggs, then a bullet (.38?) in the driver's front fender 4th of July! In front of our home, in a nice neighborhood, quartz floodlight over our driveway and streetlight literally across the street. Luckily it hit a fender bolt head and stopped before it hit the engine. Police officer & I think the slug dropped down inside the fender, so when it gets fixed we'll see if we can retrieve it. Boss asked if I couldn't park it in the garage. Well, no - there's my '60 Bird and wife's Fiero GT in the garage. Daughter's Mustang and wife's company TransAm in the driveway. So sorry my two are on the street, but that's the way it is!

Definately not hard to do. Just pick up the special Torx bits, and the rest uses standard hand tools.

Switches are readily available most anywhere. I highly recommed buying the best, most expensive switch you can find. Maybe even spring for one from the Ford parts counter. There was a recall in 90 that mandated replacement of these switches. If the switch fails, it can literally set your car on fire.

I restored the interior on a Cougar XR7 that was an ignition switch victim. It was spared from burning to the ground because the windows were rolled up tight, and the fire snuffed itself due to oxygen deprivation. However, the interior was a mess.

I would suggest disconnecting your battery until you've had a chance to replace the switch. A fire can happen even with the ignition switch off.

Good Luck!

JD

Thanks for the warning! I will disconnect when I get home. Local Ford Parts has the ignition switch in stock and Millenium Ford in WA (obsolete Ford parts) shows listing for the obsolete antenna switch - both for under $50.

I'll have to get out about 4:00 am to beat the 100 degree heat to work on it!

txsc said:

This will expose the ignition switch on the right hand side of the column, a few inches down from the key lock assembly. This is the only place that will require a special tool. The switch is held in place with anti-tamper Torx head screws that require a special bit. These should be available at Sears, or some parts stores, for a nominal cost. I think I've even seen them at Harbor Freight.

Click to expand...

Do you know, off-hand, what size Torx bit it needs? I think I have T-10 & T-15 screwdriver-type tools at home. I see where a ratchet bit is advisable or necessary, but thought if I could find the right size before I tore into it I could complete the job w/o having to head down to the store in the middle.

Thanks!

Your regular everyday torx tip screw drivers won't work on those screws. There's a little pin that sticks up in the middle of the screw head that will stop your screw driver from going in.

I've taken vice grips at times on those screws to get em out, then replaced them with good ole robertson head screws.

Fixed!

Bought the ign. switch to replace. Didn't find time for a while, but when I started to move car to replace, key cylinder turned too far and I immediately disconnected battery again. Had it towed to Ford; they replaced ign. switch (which FIXED all the noted problems - THANKS!!!). Mechanic had a part in toolbox to fix key cylinder w/o replacing and repaired antenna switch, as well. All for $230 including tow - cheapest repair on that car to date. They couldn't t/s inop cruise control, tho. Went by the book as far as they could, but missing an important test tool and could go no further. Oh well, at least it's running again.

Thanks to all for suggestions!!

I replaced the ignition switch and tumbler today, while replacing the steering wheel. It appears to have fixed the problem. Mine was getting just like you said no vmm or ac display if the key was not in the right position. When I got the ignition switch out you can see where it was coming apart at one end. Was your cruise working before the dealership worked on the car? I spent more time sourcing parts and tools than actually working on the car.

Cruise

No, the cruise control had stopped working before these problems and I really miss it on 45-mile highway commutes! I know there are posts about t/s the system - just need to get time to re-read and work on it.

Lots of great info here. I never would have suspected the ignition switch for those seemingly unrelated problems w/o checking here.