AC Delete, pics

james5275

Registered User
Cant believe I didn't find the thread by 'rzimmerl' sooner. Just got the ac delete project done today and love it. Even though the belt coverage on the water pump is a little low, I really like how it cleans up the right side. Awesome website we have here!
jj
 

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Awesome man. So i am in the process of this and all you have to do is modify the tensioner and get the belt and your set?
 
That write up should be added to the FAQ. I am going to try a shorter belt, as the 56" can tend to slip at upper RPM's, I think a 54 and 55" are avaiable. I will refitting a new belt when I put it back together next week. here is another alternative

http://www.sccoa.com/forums/showthread.php?t=90446&highlight=delete

put in a Gates K080535 belt to reroute it. this is what i used and absolutely no slipping. kind of a son-of-a-gun to put on but well worth it. found it at napa.
 
53.5!?!?

Wow, that had to be a tight fit. The 56" is already pretty tough to get on. Did anyone try to get more tension on the pulley by rotating the base a little more? I'll give it a shot. Havn't driven the car yet, just serviced up the cooling system and let it run. We'll see if it slips.
Chadder- You also need to change the tensioner pulley to a ribbed pulley (not smooth), about 30$. Good luck finding one at the junkyard, I looked everywhere around here and most cars only have a 6 rib setup. Thanks again for the ideas fellas, pretty slick!
jj

PS, has anybody re routed their lower radiator hose? It kinda sucks pulling the hose just to change a belt.
 
I ran a 58" belt on my car and we just rotated the tensioner all the way to the thermostat neck to fit it.. Drilled in a new guide hole and it fits like a stock belt with no slippage whatsoever.. Oh and we kept the 6 rib pulley on.. Didnt see a need to swap it since it doesnt slip..

[edit] I just saw you guys are using the stock tensioner.. Why dont you use a N/A Tbird tensioner which tensions the other way? Its $54 shipped from Parts America..[/edit]

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JrsSuperCoupe4-1.jpg
 
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My fussy alternator wouldn't allow me to get away with that tensioner because it just doesn't wrap around the alt. pulley enough. I learned to get my serp. belt on around my whole radiator. I have to disconnect the upper hose and the fan wire harness. Then just remove the 2 mounting bolts for the radiator and pull it up. You don't have to drain the cooling system this way but you'll need to re-bleed it. I use a 55" 8 rib belt with the smooth tensioner wheel and I don't have any issues right now with slipping but I have in the past. It all depends on how much spring tension your tensioner has left whether it slips or not. Most guys don't have any issues at all using the stock tensioner.
 
so can some one help me out here

what is done to the stock tensioner to make it work for the a/c delete how do you guys get it to flip and put tension on the other way.. thanks
 
so can some one help me out here

what is done to the stock tensioner to make it work for the a/c delete how do you guys get it to flip and put tension on the other way.. thanks

http://www.sccoa.com/forums/showthread.php?t=88409&highlight=delete




and where do you get the right pulley for the modified tensioner?

Dayco 89053 76MM 8 rib pulley with flange
Gates K080560 belt


__________________
2003 Mustang Mach1
1995 Thunderbird LX 4.6
; 4R70W w/Jmod, 8.8 3.27 Tracloc
1995 Mustang 4.2; M90 Supercharger/15%OD, 4R70W w/Jmod, 8.8 3.73 Tracloc
 
another fix instead of using a shorter belt would to be rebuild the tensioner with a stiffer Magnum Powers Spring. I might try this also along with a 55" belt to rid of the slipping issue. If not I'll go back to the stock belt routing using the AC delete brakcet.
 
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I'm thinking of doing this soon, but one question that seems to keep popping into my head is.

Anyone have any problems with the stock, or "smooth" type tensioner pulley having the ripped belt running over it?

I like the idea of drilling a new hole for the tensioner arm to keep its place. Much better than tighten the crap out of, and keep checking it over time.
 
I'm thinking of doing this soon, but one question that seems to keep popping into my head is.

Anyone have any problems with the stock, or "smooth" type tensioner pulley having the ripped belt running over it?

I like the idea of drilling a new hole for the tensioner arm to keep its place. Much better than tighten the crap out of, and keep checking it over time.

I had problems at first but it wasn't because of the pulley. You could tell the belt had too much slack due to the spring being worn out. It would squeal for a second right after you took the load off the engine at high rpms. Drilling a new hole is a good idea that I didn't think of at the time but mine stays tight after hundreds of on and off sessions.
 
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