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View Full Version : I Need Help For Everyone!!!!!



cachethunder
08-16-2007, 04:07 AM
HI EVERYONE. TODAY I FINALY INSTALL FOR ME SOME NEW PERFORMACE PART , BUT MY CAR FEEL BAD. THIS IS THE PROBLEM:

MY CAR IS A 1993 SC AUTO, HAS A REBUILD AOD, STOCK EXHAUST WITHOUT CATS, K&N 9" CONE FILTER, MAGNUM POWERS 3.5 INTAKE , MAGNUM POWERS 85MM THROTTLE BODY, STOCK SUPERCHARGER , STOCK SUPERCHARGER PULLEY, 3/4 RAISED TOP 255LPH FUEL PUMP, NEX WATER PUMP

YESTERDAY I INSTALL A NEW , SET OF NEW LIVEWIRES AND A NEW SCREAMIN DEAMON COIL PACK, A 42LB USED LUCAS INJECTORS ( WORK FINE ) NGK IRIDIUM IX (TRX55IX I THINK ) SPARK PLUGS SET. NEW C&L 76MM MAF WITH A PURPLE SAMPLE TUBE. AND A USED CAMSHAFT SENSOR (ROUND) PURCHASED TO VICTOR MALVAR.

I REMOVE THE BATERY FOR 24 HRS, I THINK THE COMPUTER ERASED, I REMOVE THE SUPERCHARGER AND THE INLET PLENUM , I REMOVE THE FUEL RAIL, CHANGE INJECTORS, CHECK FOR LEAKS, ALL FINE. THEN I REPLACE THE SPARK PLUGS ONE BY ONE. THE OLD PLUGS ARE MOTORCRAFT PLATINUM. WHEN I REMOVE THE FIRST , I COMPARING WITH THE NGK, AND THE NGK IS A LITTLE MORE LARGE, THAN THE MOTORCRAFT, THE SCREAMIN DEAMON COIL PACK SAY YOU CAN OPEN THE GAP TO .060 - .065 ( MAYBE SOUND STUPID BUT ) I OPEN TO 0.063. INSTALL ALL . THEN I CHANGE THE LIVE WIRES, AND THE NEW COIL PACK.. CHANGE THE SENSOR. CHANGE THE MAF AND ELECTRONICS.

BEFORE ALL OF THESE THE CAR WORKS FINE , AFTER INSTALL ARRIVES THE PROBLEMS:

I TRY TO START THE CAR BUT DOESNT TURN THE FIRST TIME. WHEN FINALY START, THE CAR SOMETIMES TURN OFF ALONE. WHEN THE CAR IS ON PARKING I REV CAR LOOKS SEEMS GREAT. BUT WHEN IS IN D , THE HISTORY IS ANOTHER. YOU CAN FEEL HOW YOU LOOSE POWER WHEN YOU KICK HARD THE PEDAL AND A HORRIBLE SNORE SOUND :confused::eek:COME OF THE ENGINE WHEN YOU TRY TO PUSH QUICK THE PEDAL, IF YOU PUSH THE PEDAL SOFT THE CAR FEEL BETTER, THE SOUND IS GONE AND MAYBE YOU CAN THINK ALL IS OK, BUT NO.

THE ENGINE FEELS WITH ALL THE CILINDERS WORKS, NO VIRATING OR SOMETHING, JUST FINE, BUT SOMETIMES COME TO TURN OFF, AND WHEN I TRY TO START AGAIN, SMELL TO GAS THE EXHAUST.

PLEASE HELP ME I CANT RUN MY BIRD, AND THAT SOUND OF THE ENGINE, IS NOT GOOD, ALL BECOME WITH THE NEW PARTS. TTHAKS

David Neibert
08-16-2007, 08:56 AM
Assuming you resealed the IC tubes correctly, I think your main problem is with regapping the plugs.

David

XxSlowpokexX
08-16-2007, 09:08 AM
Assuming you resealed the IC tubes correctly, I think your main problem is with regapping the plugs.

Unless he broke an electrode tip I seriously doubt that (although anything s possible). Idle would not be effected especially with our wonderful ignition system. A wider gap would if anything cause the car to break up at higher rpm's.

Now I am unsure if those are the correct plugs but check that out.

Also why did you change the camshaft sensor to begin with? Perhaps that wasnt the issue

backtobirds
08-16-2007, 09:25 AM
Start with the plug gap like David said. .056 is plenty big from the factory IMHO, and on a blown engine and then modded that needs to be tightened up some. Also look for vacum leaks with all that stuff you had off. And I assume since you mentioned it that the purple tube for the MAF is for 42lb injectors. If not, then there is your problem.

sail7seas
08-16-2007, 11:29 AM
http://www.sccoa.com/forums/showthread.php?t=91785

cachethunder
08-16-2007, 01:24 PM
ME AGAIN, YES IS A PURPLE TUBE. AND YES I CHECK AND SEAL ALL THE TUBES. WHEN THE CAR IS HOT AND IN "D" IN A RED LIGHT , THE CAR FEELS OK LIKE NOTHING, IF YOU PUSH HARD THE PEDAL, THE SOUND COMMING, AND HE CANT REV GOOD, IF YOU PUSH THE PEDAL NORMAL THE CAR REVS FINE. AND THE OTHER THING I CHANGE THE SENSOR BECAUSE SOMETIMES THE CAR LOOSE THE TACH WHEN I DRIVE. I CHANGE THE SENSOR AND NO PROBLEMS WITH THE TACH FOR THIS MOMENT.

IF YOU PUSH HARD THE PEDAL IN "P" THE CAR REV FINE, LIKE NOTHING. JUST IN "D" HAS THIS PROBLEM. MAYBE THE GAP AND THE SPARK PLUGS IS THE PROBLEM.:(:confused:

ThunderDave
08-16-2007, 01:30 PM
The eec will need tuning to upgrade to injectors that big, right? Could that be part of his problem?

sail7seas
08-16-2007, 03:20 PM
...

IF YOU PUSH HARD THE PEDAL IN "P" THE CAR REV FINE, LIKE NOTHING. JUST IN "D" HAS THIS PROBLEM. MAYBE THE GAP AND THE SPARK PLUGS IS THE PROBLEM.:(:confused:


SWAG, A/F way lean tune, therefore not enough gas in "D",(provided hardware ok & no air leaks)
Have you checked codes?

cachethunder
08-16-2007, 04:34 PM
HI AGAIN. WELL I CHECK ALL TODAY AGAIN, I CHANGE THE IAC SENSOR FOR ANOTHER OLD ONE I HAVE AND FIX PART OF THE PROBLEM.:cool: THE OTHER IAC BROKE ON A CORNER I CANT SEE THAT. NOW THE CAR START FINE AND DONT TURN OFF. REV FINE. THE ONLY PROBLEM NOW IS THAT SOUND. I READ IN A CAR MAGAZINE, WHEN THE O2 SENSOR GO BAD THE CAR MAKE SOME SOUND ( I DONT KNOW HOW NAMES THAT SOUND IN ENGLISH :):confused:, ENGLISH IS NOT MY NATIVE LENGUAGE :p) THANKS AND ANYBODY KNOWS WHAT IS THAT SOUND.

sizemoremk
08-16-2007, 04:58 PM
A high pitched whining sound or a whistle?

If you added a metal tube 3.5 intake and a bigger throttle body, the supercharger will make a whining sound, which is the air pulses vibrating the new metal tube.

If this is what you are hearing, its suppose to do that:D

ricardoa1
08-16-2007, 05:12 PM
Not much to add then whats already said. But take the caps off. Its easier to read.

David Neibert
08-16-2007, 11:47 PM
Might want to try reinstalling your stock coil pack.

http://www.sccoa.com/forums/showthread.php?t=92134

David

blown94cougar
08-19-2007, 12:39 AM
Turn your dang cap's lock off maybe thats your problem close the gaps on the plugs to the factory gap and start there thats way too large for a supercoupe...maybe for a stock N/A 3.8

cbt
08-19-2007, 02:33 AM
just for general information

typing in caps is kinda considered like Yelling

steve

Mike8675309
08-19-2007, 11:16 AM
Get over it folks, obviously English isn't his first language. I don't think mixed case is gonna fix the communication issue.

Problem:
Runs fine in Neutral/Park but under load (in D) wont' run right, seems down on power.

Correct?

Cause:
Lean engine condition. There is more air in the engine than fuel. The engine computer attempts to put proper fuel into the system with the Air based on calculations and measurements. If engine runs lean, either the sensors are lying to the computer (wrong sample tube, bad O2 sensors), or the amount of fuel the computer tells the injectors to put into the system isn't getting into the system. (Bad injectors, bad fuel pressure regulator, bad fuel pump) or extra air is sneaking into the system. (Vacuum leak)

If you have a miss under load, suspect the coil pack, the spark plugs, or the spark gap.

If you have no power under load, you should check fuel pressure first.

cachethunder
08-19-2007, 02:37 PM
Get over it folks, obviously English isn't his first language. I don't think mixed case is gonna fix the communication issue.

Problem:
Runs fine in Neutral/Park but under load (in D) wont' run right, seems down on power.

Correct?

Cause:
Lean engine condition. There is more air in the engine than fuel. The engine computer attempts to put proper fuel into the system with the Air based on calculations and measurements. If engine runs lean, either the sensors are lying to the computer (wrong sample tube, bad O2 sensors), or the amount of fuel the computer tells the injectors to put into the system isn't getting into the system. (Bad injectors, bad fuel pressure regulator, bad fuel pump) or extra air is sneaking into the system. (Vacuum leak)

If you have a miss under load, suspect the coil pack, the spark plugs, or the spark gap.

If you have no power under load, you should check fuel pressure first.


Hi again. I check all again. I have a bad IAC and change with another one. The car start fine, rev's fine. When the car is cold runs very great and very strong feels excelent and no "extrange sound" . But when the car is hot ( normal temp ) i feel down power and the "extrange sound" is coming again. I think the O2 sensor is the problem but i dont know:(. The new 255lph works excelent and the fuel regulator is stock but looks very fine. HELP :eek:

cbt
08-19-2007, 02:57 PM
have you pulled a spark plug - what are they looking like

steve

cachethunder
08-19-2007, 03:28 PM
have you pulled a spark plug - what are they looking like

steve

I even not remove the spark plugs, i want to check if the problem is another thing . if no change i pull out and close the gap. You know is some work to take the spark plugs out:rolleyes:

Flex
08-19-2007, 03:31 PM
Stock regulator might not be able to keep up to the 255. Convert to an aftermarket Kirban so that you can adjust pressure and mount a liquid filled pressure gauge where the valve is on the fuel rail. This will let you know what your fuel pressure is set to.

Had the same issue on my brother's car when we swapped SC's along with 42's, MAF etc. I had to raise the fuel pressure to make the engine run correct.

cachethunder
08-19-2007, 03:37 PM
Stock regulator might not be able to keep up to the 255. Convert to an aftermarket Kirban so that you can adjust pressure and mount a liquid filled pressure gauge where the valve is on the fuel rail. This will let you know what your fuel pressure is set to.

Had the same issue on my brother's car when we swapped SC's along with 42's, MAF etc. I had to raise the fuel pressure to make the engine run correct.

And what is the correct pressure for my configuration??

Flex
08-19-2007, 03:56 PM
My manual has the factory pressure at 30-45 psi. My injectors came with a flow sheet that required the pressure be set to between 43-45 psi to maintain 43 lbs of fuel flow and 60 psi to flow 50 lbs.

cachethunder
08-20-2007, 02:18 AM
Hi again. Somebody have any idea about the sound of my car??:confused::mad: thanks

Scott Long
08-20-2007, 02:33 AM
Can you describe the sound any better? Low tone, high pitch? Sound like a goose honking, or are you hearing detonation?

Put your stock coil pack back on and see how it runs. My new screamin' demon is junk.

cachethunder
08-20-2007, 03:01 AM
Can you describe the sound any better? Low tone, high pitch? Sound like a goose honking, or are you hearing detonation?

Put your stock coil pack back on and see how it runs. My new screamin' demon is junk.

No detonation, sound likes a rattle ( "rattle sound":rolleyes:mmmm now i understand) for me is "cascabeleo"

XR7 Dave
08-20-2007, 09:01 AM
You are going to have to find a way to be more specific about the kind of sound you hear. What you have described sounds like detonation.

cachethunder
08-20-2007, 11:23 AM
You are going to have to find a way to be more specific about the kind of sound you hear. What you have described sounds like detonation.

Is not a detonation sound. The sound is a rattle sound and is coming when the car is hot and push hard the gas pedal. when the car is cold have not sound

XxSlowpokexX
08-20-2007, 01:06 PM
Could be detonation...WHat kind of gas do you have octane wise?

badfreakinbird
08-20-2007, 01:09 PM
All those modes and the exhaust is still only "STOCK EXHAUST WITHOUT CATS" Maybe thats the problem.

sail7seas
08-20-2007, 01:16 PM
SWAG, an Exhaust leak can make a variety of familiar car sounds, a stethoscope is one way to find the pinhole leak.

>But when the car is hot ( normal temp ) i feel down power<
SWAG, you may be sensing the EEC's program 'ECT (& ACT) vs spark' retarding values (to prevent detonation).

cachethunder
08-21-2007, 01:13 PM
Hi again. Well i put in my car a 92 octane gas ( no more octane here..:rolleyes:) and the rattle noise is gone:eek::). Im very happy, well the car feels very good just for a moments the check engine turn on and then turn off, but i will reset de computer and check after that. My rpm at iddle are low 500 in Gear and 650 in Park. And today i put 600-650 at Gear and 750 in Park. Is correct?? or please tell me what is correct:cool:

David Neibert
08-21-2007, 01:31 PM
Hi again. Well i put in my car a 92 octane gas ( no more octane here..:rolleyes:) and the rattle noise is gone:eek::). Im very happy, well the car feels very good just for a moments the check engine turn on and then turn off, but i will reset de computer and check after that. My rpm at iddle are low 500 in Gear and 650 in Park. And today i put 600-650 at Gear and 750 in Park. Is correct?? or please tell me what is correct:cool:

Idle is close enough....if rattle went away with higher octane fuel it was detonation you were hearing. You must use at least 91 octane.

David

Mike8675309
08-21-2007, 04:11 PM
IF you ever must use low octane fuel, there is a jumper wire that you can remove on the wire harness that will tell the EEC to remove 3 degrees of timing, helping to avoid detonation with standard octane fuel.

Detonation very likely can happen only when hot. When hot, the temperatures in the combustion chamber can be high enough to now easily detonate a low octane fuel.

cachethunder
08-22-2007, 12:01 PM
IF you ever must use low octane fuel, there is a jumper wire that you can remove on the wire harness that will tell the EEC to remove 3 degrees of timing, helping to avoid detonation with standard octane fuel.

Detonation very likely can happen only when hot. When hot, the temperatures in the combustion chamber can be high enough to now easily detonate a low octane fuel.

Can you tell me or explain me where is exactly and how is this jumper thanks:cool:

XxSlowpokexX
08-22-2007, 12:40 PM
As everyone has said. Use 91 or above octane in your SC. If its runnig fine now and feel sok dont mess with things such as idle.

I would check at least one of your plugs however now that we determined you were detonating

Mike8675309
08-22-2007, 10:00 PM
Can you tell me or explain me where is exactly and how is this jumper thanks:cool:

On the harness connector that goes to the A/C compressor, there is another connector with a plug in it. It is this connector with the plug that is the octane plug. If you remove the plug you'll see two connectors in there. Stick that plug in the glove box as you'll want to put it back in if you have any issues, or get your premium fuel back in the car.

David Neibert
08-22-2007, 10:54 PM
On the harness connector that goes to the A/C compressor, there is another connector with a plug in it. It is this connector with the plug that is the octane plug. If you remove the plug you'll see two connectors in there. Stick that plug in the glove box as you'll want to put it back in if you have any issues, or get your premium fuel back in the car.

Mike,

The one near the AC compressor is the spout...pulling it removes computer control of ignition timing (don't want to do that)....the octane plug looks about the same, but it's located back by the EEC test port. Here's a picture of the octane plug on my 91.

http://members.tccoa.com/dneibert/octane.jpg

David

cachethunder
08-23-2007, 02:40 AM
thanks. i want to check tomorrow and tell us what happend:D

Mike8675309
08-23-2007, 09:44 AM
Thanks dave... I guess I got that one confused.

cachethunder
09-20-2007, 03:23 AM
Hi again, i need to tell us one thing...... i blew the headgasket:mad::mad::, why this happend to me:rolleyes:.

Now i want to rebuild all the engine, but i want to buy a performance cam, and a ported heads , which is the best combo to the pocket?? i see the stage 1A or maybe the stage 2A of cams of Victor Malvar, and what heads are good, please i need some information. You can see what mods i have in this moment in the first page. thanks to all:)

Flex
09-20-2007, 04:06 AM
You could talk to Dave Dalke (XR7 Dave).

fturner
09-20-2007, 07:02 AM
IF your going that route as well I'd say you will also need a tune, so talk to Dave about getting an SCT chip etc.

ThunderDave
09-20-2007, 09:28 AM
Victor sells heads too.

Flex
09-20-2007, 12:45 PM
Spinng Wheels selling heads too eh. Are they ported in house? I'll have to check into that.

cachethunder
09-22-2007, 01:43 PM
nobody has numbers about lift , or duration?? :( . thanks

David Neibert
09-22-2007, 02:34 PM
nobody has numbers about lift , or duration?? :( . thanks

Discuss your performance goals and your budget with one of the people listed above (I suggest SCU aka XR7Dave) and go from there. There are many things to consider when selecting a cam.

David

Flex
09-22-2007, 02:38 PM
You can't ask for specific numbers for lift and duration without knowing what other parts you will be using.

A mild cam with less lift and duration may be all you can use depending on what heads, exhaust, sc, fuel pump/injectors etc. you will be using.

Heads can just be ported or they can have larger valves installed at the same time to provide considerably more flow capability.

I also blew the head gaskets on my brother's car recently. At that stage, the car had a new 255 lph Walbro, full Flowmaster exhaust with ceramic Mustang shorties, a brand new rectangular port M90 with a welded and ported factory inlet, 4 lb injectors, Kirban adjustable regulator, 80 MM C&L MAF, 75 mm TB, MP cold air, 10 % OD SC pulley, ASP underdrives.

After the hg's went, he wanted to add some other power adders during the rebuild. I picked up some forged pistons and h-beam rods from Paul at BTM for the short block rebuild to hopefully make it bullet proof. I also pickd up some custom lenghth windage tray studs directly from ARP and some head studs of Eba for $30.

I am also having some custom 7 mm stemmed valves made up in 1.95 Intake and 1.625 Exhaust. These will be installed in some ported 94 heads.

I briefly talked to Dave about a cam as a friend was also getting some parts from him for an engine build which he was also doing. My brother wanted something relatively mild even though the heads will support a wild cam. Dave suggested a comp cams regrind .491 lift cam he usd in his wife's car that made 400 hp. I bought this new from him for $150. I already bought matching comp beehive springs off Ebay for $110 and retainers for another $40.

You have to know what you want to get out of the engine before you choose your parts. Everything should be chosen to work together. (happier now?)

ThunderDave
09-22-2007, 08:07 PM
Dave, Dave, Dave, I think I'll punt here.


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Flex
09-22-2007, 11:49 PM
Interesting comment, please explain.:confused:

ThunderDave
09-23-2007, 12:07 AM
Interesting comment, please explain.:confused:


Just kidding with David some. ;)

Flex
09-23-2007, 12:21 AM
Thunder,

I realized that, so I yanked your chain a bit.:)