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bigpoppa822
08-20-2007, 11:00 PM
So I've seen that the normal thing around here is for the temp gauge to be in between the O and the R, but mine is almost all the way up to H, even at idle once it's warmed up. I just finshed putting a new motor in (drove it to work today :) )and even though I'm still doing break-in, these cooling woes are starting to bother me. Is there anything I can do to lower coolant temps? I was thinking about water wetter, but wanted to know what you guys thought. As for temperature-increasing mods, I do have a 10% overdrive pulley on an early model blower that's been home ported and it also has GTP rotors, but it's slipping like crazy and only making 8 pounds of boost because I don't have my MP springs in yet (I do have the right belt for it on). Help! I don't have the expertise you guys do. (17 year old SC owner here)

bigpoppa822
08-20-2007, 11:11 PM
Fan works, so that's not an issue. Are there any sensors I should change?

sail7seas
08-20-2007, 11:43 PM
Water wetter works, cuts say maybe 10 deg.
Backwash A/C condenser (probably filled with bugs and dirt)
Add Tranny cooler(2), do a forum 'search' for designs.
Don't run A/C, as condenser blows hot air in radiator.
Of course new radiator. (say Griffen)
Drive on shady side of the street.:rolleyes:
Do a forum 'search' for other ideas

Randy N Connie
08-20-2007, 11:43 PM
Do you have the front lower air dam in place?
Or has it been removed or brokin off?

Randy

speedwagen
08-21-2007, 12:17 AM
1-How about your thermostat?
2-I know you said the fan is good, but does it turn on when it should?
3-Did you bleed the air out of your system when you refilled it with coolant?
4-You are right to be concerned about the temperature on your car. Overheating these motors can cause havoc on the heads, headgaskets, and if enough water gets in the motor you can wipe out the bottom end or bend things with a version of hydro lock.

Good Luck:)

bigpoppa822
08-21-2007, 12:22 AM
1-How about your thermostat?
2-I know you said the fan is good, but does it turn on when it should?
3-Did you bleed the air out of your system when you refilled it with coolant?
4-You are right to be concerned about the temperature on your car. Overheating these motors can cause havoc on the heads, headgaskets, and if enough water gets in the motor you can wipe out the bottom end or bend things with a version of hydro lock.

Good Luck:)

Haven't checked the t-stat, should I just replace it? Fan comes on when it should, AC doesn't have a charge in it so its always off, I bled out the air with that bleed valve on the top of the motor three times, and my father (mechanic) said I should probably replace the radiator cap, but can the cap actually make a difference?
And the front air dam is on, the car is complete.

the-big-e
08-21-2007, 02:05 AM
What year is your SC......

It might be something simple like a bad relay in the IRCM.....

Can you tell which speed your fan is running......

Unplug the connector to the ECT sensor that is located right behind the blower tentioner.....

This will cause the low speed to come on and you will get a CEL.....

If that brings your engine temp down to an acceptable level, somewhere between the O and R, then there are other repairs you can do to make the fan operate and keep you engine cool.....

thunderkid84
08-21-2007, 12:03 PM
when the new motor was intsalled was everything new ?

maybe the t-stat is old ?

did u flush the radiator at all ?

do what Big-E said. if that ECT isnt reading the coolant temp right, its not gonna do what it should.

blubird1
08-28-2007, 12:58 PM
I have a 90 sc and the temp gauge does not work, how can i fix this. If anyone out there cn help me out that would be great.

thunderkid84
08-28-2007, 04:54 PM
I have a 90 sc and the temp gauge does not work, how can i fix this. If anyone out there cn help me out that would be great.

replace the coolant temp sensor thats behind the acc belt tensioner. u'll see what im talkin about. its cheap too.


yay !! finally 1,000 posts !!

bigpoppa822
05-20-2008, 10:01 PM
Bringing this one back from the dead!

Idled my car for about a half hour today, couldn't drive it yet (unregistered).

The car now has working A/C, and the fan comes on high when it's on.

However, with the A/C off and the engine warm, the fan does not turn on.

Do I need a new IRCM or is there a cheaper fix, as in relays, sensors, etc.?

Young-SC-Owner
05-20-2008, 11:17 PM
You need to get aftermarket temp gauge the console one is junk,
well against the majority of people here, i just put a fan switch in so i control it,how do yo know the fan needs to kick on while idlin? it may not need to

bigpoppa822
05-20-2008, 11:27 PM
You need to get aftermarket temp gauge the console one is junk,
well against the majority of people here, i just put a fan switch in so i control it,how do yo know the fan needs to kick on while idlin? it may not need to

I have an autometer temp gauge, it's just not hooked up yet. I want everything to work and be like a stock car, so I don't want to wire the fan on a switch, either. The stock gauge read around the R and M in NORM with the car idling in my driveway, it got hot enough underhood (with the hood open the whole time) where even the fenders were too hot to touch. If the fan isn't on when it's that hot, I'm thinking something is wrong but I'm not sure.

dwayne
05-21-2008, 12:55 AM
i say thermostat is locked closed.

TbirdSCFan
05-21-2008, 12:56 AM
Bringing this one back from the dead!

Idled my car for about a half hour today, couldn't drive it yet (unregistered).

The car now has working A/C, and the fan comes on high when it's on.

However, with the A/C off and the engine warm, the fan does not turn on.

Do I need a new IRCM or is there a cheaper fix, as in relays, sensors, etc.? Its not likely the IRCM as thats what triggers the fan when the A/C is on. Do you have heat? If not then the coolant might not be moving past the ECT sensor correctly. Thats the sensor that sits on top of the outlet tube which is screwed into the top of the intake manifold on the pass side. Its right in front of the oil filler cap.

Another test to try is to unplug the ECT sensor while the engine is running.. the fan should come on.

I've had problems with the circuit on my other 2 SCs, delayed fan turn on, so I wired in a manual fan switch. Takes time and requires a DPDT switch (for Low-EEC-High), 2 diodes, a 1W 250 Ohm resistor, and patience to do it my way. A simpler way is to use a SPST switch (like the lighted ones they sell at Azone) to just trigger the low speed fan.. + 1 diode and a resistor to allow the EEC to control the A/C fan.

Or.... just cut one special wire to keep it on all the time.

As suggested, also check the thermostat. You can test it in a pot of boiling water.

franky_402
05-21-2008, 01:34 AM
Its not likely the IRCM as thats what triggers the fan when the A/C is on. Do you have heat? If not then the coolant might not be moving past the ECT sensor correctly. Thats the sensor that sits on top of the outlet tube which is screwed into the top of the intake manifold on the pass side. Its right in front of the oil filler cap.

Another test to try is to unplug the ECT sensor while the engine is running.. the fan should come on.

I've had problems with the circuit on my other 2 SCs, delayed fan turn on, so I wired in a manual fan switch. Takes time and requires a DPDT switch (for Low-EEC-High), 2 diodes, a 1W 250 Ohm resistor, and patience to do it my way. A simpler way is to use a SPST switch (like the lighted ones they sell at Azone) to just trigger the low speed fan.. + 1 diode and a resistor to allow the EEC to control the A/C fan.

Or.... just cut one special wire to keep it on all the time.

As suggested, also check the thermostat. You can test it in a pot of boiling water.


if it were me i would just replace the t-stat anyways if you take it out, its about 15 bux tops, thats not bad, then you could also just get a 180 to keep it that much cooler!!

AX-MAN
05-21-2008, 07:48 AM
Or.... just cut one special wire to keep it on all the time.


What is this "special" wire of which you speak?

David Neibert
05-21-2008, 08:29 AM
What is this "special" wire of which you speak?

Wire #14 at the ICRM.

David

the-big-e
05-21-2008, 10:10 AM
Just remember that your fan will be running ALL the time and will wear out sooner.....:rolleyes:

Mike Puckett
05-21-2008, 10:26 AM
I've installed a separate fan control module from PEP Boys for $29.95 on both of my SC's. It has a thermocouple probe that slides thru the radiator fins under the inlet opening to sense coolant temperature and there is an adjustment screw on it to set the turn on point for the fan. I hooked the controller output wire to the brown/orange fan motor wire. There is also a sense wire that goes directly to 12 volts which will keep the fan running for a couple of minutes after I shut off the engine until it's cooled down. I also have a separate temp gauge and I installed the sensor for it on the tall vent tube on the thermostat housing. This way if I run low on coolant it gets starved 1st and will quit reading unlike the dash temp gauge which will continue to read falsely after being exposed to air.

David Neibert
05-21-2008, 11:00 AM
I've installed a separate fan control module from PEP Boys for $29.95 on both of my SC's. It has a thermocouple probe that slides thru the radiator fins under the inlet opening to sense coolant temperature and there is an adjustment screw on it to set the turn on point for the fan. I hooked the controller output wire to the brown/orange fan motor wire. There is also a sense wire that goes directly to 12 volts which will keep the fan running for a couple of minutes after I shut off the engine until it's cooled down. I also have a separate temp gauge and I installed the sensor for it on the tall vent tube on the thermostat housing. This way if I run low on coolant it gets starved 1st and will quit reading unlike the dash temp gauge which will continue to read falsely after being exposed to air.

Mike,

Do you have a brand and part number for that fan control module ? Getting ready to install a second fan on my 93 (for summer driving) and that sounds like a better way to control it than a seperate relay and thermostatic gizmo that grounds the relay like I was planning to use.

David

Pablo94SC
05-21-2008, 11:17 AM
David,

I think he's talking about the same thing I have on my car, and you have to use the relay still. Currently, mine is wired up so that the IRCM will trigger the fan on, but I can still adjust the thermostatic switch to run the fan with the car off.

Mike Puckett
05-21-2008, 11:22 AM
No, I don't have a part number but they usually have 2 different types. One is electronic and has a replaceable plug-in relay. The other is mechanical where the thermocouple heats up a spring that turns the fan on and off via switch contacts built in without a relay. They are in the section with the thermostats and radiator caps. Either one is adjustable and works fine. Make sure you use a fuse, 30amp. I don't hook it to the IRCM at all but go straight to the battery terminal and chassis ground. The electronic one also has a sense wire that I connect to 12 volts so it'll run for a couple of minutes after I shut off the engine or If you connect the sense wire to ignition on 12 volts the fan will shut off when the engine is shut off. The mechanical one doesn't have this feature.

sleeper bird
05-21-2008, 11:36 AM
he probably has a 180 degree t stat in it already,and that is why it is running hot.if you put a 180 in it it confuses the computer and the fan will not kick on untill i is too hot,i went through this with my 95 and i had to have dave make a chip to compensate for the 180 t stat it makes the fan kick on when it is suppose to.after that it runs cool as can be.not real cheap though

90redsc
05-21-2008, 11:41 AM
I have a 90 SC. Had similar problem could not get fan to go on, repalced many parts. Ended up doing the same as younger and put a switch in the dash.

franky_402
05-21-2008, 12:28 PM
well i had similar problems with my 90, i just did a complete coolant flush and replaced both hoses, then i added watter wetter and the car ran way cooler, even in the stop and go chicago traffic on 55

fturner
05-21-2008, 01:05 PM
If your not running a chip after all your mods, there is a good chance you can be running major rich at idle. Only do the 180 tstat if you get a chip as was mentioned.

The stock EEC settings have the low speed come on at 220 and the high speed at 228.

You should get a base tune done for now for your setup.

Frit

David Neibert
05-21-2008, 01:06 PM
No, I don't have a part number but they usually have 2 different types. One is electronic and has a replaceable plug-in relay. The other is mechanical where the thermocouple heats up a spring that turns the fan on and off via switch contacts built in without a relay. They are in the section with the thermostats and radiator caps. Either one is adjustable and works fine. Make sure you use a fuse, 30amp. I don't hook it to the IRCM at all but go straight to the battery terminal and chassis ground. The electronic one also has a sense wire that I connect to 12 volts so it'll run for a couple of minutes after I shut off the engine or If you connect the sense wire to ignition on 12 volts the fan will shut off when the engine is shut off. The mechanical one doesn't have this feature.

Mike,

This would be for use on my turbo car with a v8 that I'm already running a 3g alternator on with a standalone fan controller for a Mrk8 fan that I bought from Lonnie Doll. His wiring kit includes a 100 AMP fuse, 75 amp relay, modded t-stat housing w/temp probe, heavy gauge wire and an additional relay for AC clutch. I don't have an ICRM or computer control over the fans on this car.

I was thinking about wiring the 14" Spal pusher I'm adding directly to the 75 amp relay that controls the Mrk8 fan, but didn't want to pull too many amps at start up, so I'm planning to put the pusher on a seperate circut and set it to come on about 10 degrees sooner than the main fan.

I would tap power from the battery side of the 100 amp fuse for the Mrk 8 fan, and get my 12 volt signal (ignition on) from the existing relay. It would just be easier/cleaner looking to use a module that combined the thermostatic control and the relay instead of using the mechanical thermostatic control with a loose relay. We don't have Pep Boys around here, so I'll see what Advanced Auto and Autozone have.

Thanks, David

Mike Puckett
05-21-2008, 01:16 PM
David, it's not a PEP Boys specific item so I'm pretty sure you should be able to find one at the other parts stores. There is a nonadjustable type that has a fixed temp turn on/off point so make sure you get the one that's got the adjustment. I mounted the thermocouple end about 3" below the inlet hose.

MartianBob
05-21-2008, 01:54 PM
You might consider breaking it in with as many stock parts on as possible. Lots of variables out there after a rebuild. The 10% pulley surely isn't making the care any cooler...

Cheers
Bob

bigpoppa822
05-21-2008, 05:16 PM
i say thermostat is locked closed.

Pap, the tstat is braaaaand new.

And it's also a stock replacement, not sure what that is in degrees for anyone else who wanted to know.

the 10% pulley with a stock IC won't last long, within a month or so I'll have a front mount and a ported 95 blower.

Duffy Floyd
05-21-2008, 05:38 PM
Stock OEM Thermostat starts opening at 197 degrees F if memory serves.

dwayne
05-21-2008, 09:06 PM
i have boght new t-stats that did not work,just because it in new dont mean it will work,stay away from (stant-t.stats) they bad out of the box,if this is what you got,try another brand.put two in mine befor i got it right.
your guadge sender could be bad.right of t.stat housingwill se a 1 wire plug that looks like a sending unit,unscrew it see if rusted color or bluish in color.replace that as well.mine would only go to the firsr m line above cold,replaced it and went to where it was supposed to be.yours could be bad sending the guadge to hot.$5 part.if you deside this tell parts guy you have a guage(temp).