View Full Version : Anyone know of someone who can tune in Calgary?

08-22-2007, 09:24 PM
I need someone to tune my car in Calgary or somewhere close to it. I just wanted to get a good idea of anyone who might have SC experience. I just did the SC pulley and JS pulley with cold air, now my car runs like a ~~~. Anything over like 9 lbs. of boost and it sputters, very frustrating!! The head mechanic at a local ford dealership, went for a spin with me, he sais it just needs tuning for more fuel, any comments on his advice? Thank you....

Duffy Floyd
08-22-2007, 09:31 PM
When was the last time you replaced pugs and wires? What gap and type of plug are you running? What brand of spark plug wires do you have? Any other mods we should know about?

08-22-2007, 09:37 PM
Plugs and wires

If you need a tune get XR7 Dave to do a mail order tune and for the love of god do not take it to a ford dealership here, do your own work.

08-22-2007, 09:41 PM
I was at the ford dealership to pick up some plugs then I was on my way to get wires when that mechanic had suggested we go for a cruise. So he was the reason I did not replace the plugs and wires. Someone had suggested this before some motorcraft copper core somethings:rolleyes: With a 45 gap? sound good? cause I could try that, just to eliminate the possibility.. Thanks guys!!;)

08-22-2007, 09:50 PM
When you did the cold air system did you hook the PCV hose back up that comes from the driver side valve cover, under the supercharger snout, and hooked up to the intake tube after the MAF? If not you could be letting too much unmetered air into the system.

It really sounds like a boost leak or vac leak somewhere.

08-22-2007, 11:02 PM
When you did the cold air system did you hook the PCV hose back up that comes from the driver side valve cover, under the supercharger snout, and hooked up to the intake tube after the MAF? If not you could be letting too much unmetered air into the system.

It really sounds like a boost leak or vac leak somewhere.

The thing is, I put the cold air on quite a while before everything else and the car seemed to work fine. So I'm going to try the plugs and wires, Just need some Advice on what to run, and what to gap to.

08-22-2007, 11:04 PM

Ive done alot of spark plug jobs on our cars, if you still sport your AC and factory IC tubing, its best to do your plugs from under the car, should take hr to 2 hours complete, I ditched the AC for performance reasons and ease of the plugs from the top I can do plugs in 25 mins heh.

The 2 plugs Ive used in the past and never have had problems with are:

Motorcraft double platinum spark plugs
stock replacement AWSF 34 PP, $8.96 each plus taxes.

Motorcraft copper core spark plugs colder for high boost applications,
equivalent to Autolite 103 AGSF 22 C, $3.09 each plus taxes.

If your not looking to change plugs often Id stick with the 34pp's, and gap them to .045, the stock gap on our cars is .054, at 11 pounds of boost, with a 10% im sure your seeing more like 14 pounds of boost, id drop it down to .045, now with the other plugs i listed, they are very performance oriented, but require yearly replacement, and I gap these at
.035, but im running 17.5 pounds of boost.
hope that helps.


Sound about right?
Ps. thanx Bruce:p

Duffy Floyd
08-22-2007, 11:05 PM
If no other mods...low side of stock gap I would recommend.

08-22-2007, 11:29 PM
fresh plugs and wires can do wonders


08-22-2007, 11:59 PM
Sorry Duffy, you mean the copper core's and just run the 54 gap?

Duffy Floyd
08-23-2007, 12:04 AM
I'd run the double plat stock plugs and go with the low side reading which I thought was .52 with the stated OEM range being .52 to .56.(At least that is what I remember) Assuming again you are stock except for cold air and OD pulley. And new plug wires and DO NOT use Jacobs wires. I use Accel 9000's and have no issues with them.

08-23-2007, 08:54 AM
Definitely sounds like a plug issue. The extra boost seems to be causing spark blow out. Copper plugs are great to use you just need to change them more often as our ignitions wreak havoc on the plugs.

Tell us what happens after the swap. The Denso IT20's are Iridium and a tad colder then stock (1 step I believe) which isnt all that bad with the extra boost you have. I have run those with 21psi, the Accell 9000 wires and an da stock coil with no blowout. They reccomend not to regap as they are factory set by Denso and teh electrode is very delicate. I never regapped an dliek I said no problems at 21psi

08-23-2007, 09:48 AM

review this thread:

It has information from various folks on plugs to use and gaps to go with. 54 or tighter should work fine for a gap.

08-23-2007, 01:09 PM
the Accell 9000 wires are a good set of wires ,their 2nd on the list of wires to have ,at least in my book ,approx. ,150 ohms per ft. ,what part number were they...

MSD 8.5's came up 1st at 100 ohms per ft. ,their web site says 50 ohms a ft.

I ended up with the Borg/warner select SuperMags CH8651 (46.00) ,they rated at 300 ohms a ft. ,with a set of XP 5144 IRIDIUM (5.99ea.) ,set at 045 ,they run out strong with 12lbs boost


XR7 Dave
08-23-2007, 02:20 PM
I would not use a stock type plug with more than stock boost. Detonation tendencies will be reduced with a shorter tip plug like the APP764. APP103's are a colder heat range and are OE replacments for Cobra's and Lightnings, just to give you an idea.

08-23-2007, 10:59 PM
So the plugs are getting done this weekend,but..... Funny thing all this sputtering and stuff and finally today soemthing happened and the supercharger belt ended up on the supercharger and not the pulley!!! lol...
Turns out ever since installing the new tensioner springs, the bearing must have ceased on the pulley for my tensioner. The plastic pulley was melted inside from the friction I guess from the bearing not spinning. So all this time maybe I should have looked a little closer when observing. The only thing I can think of is ever since I put the stronger tensioner springs in maybe I cranked to hard on the tensioner when putting the sc belt back on and crushed the bearing just enough to stop it from spinning. Couldn't notice it on the boost gauge or smell anything wierd either.:rolleyes:

Still sputtering only when temp is normal to warm. When the car is cold it goes good with no sputter.

XR7 Dave
08-24-2007, 09:10 AM
Tip of the day - when installing heavy tensioner springs you should always replace the pulleys unless they are already basically new. I don't know how many SC's are driving around with junk pulleys. A junk pulley will even cause belt slip....

09-08-2007, 08:51 PM
So it took me a while to reply, obviously that would be good news. I must have been to busy enjoying my car :p I ended up using the autolite 103's and gapped those to 45 with a set of taylor wires and all is well. It was kind of a nightmare job though as I had expected. The three on the drivers side took me like 10 mins. The other 3 however I had to go to a self serve shop and rent a hoist for 2 hours. lol. :rolleyes: I don't know if people usually remove the exhaust on the passenger side but I removed nothing, Sucker for punishment I suppose?

Now comes the fun stuff, I have to replace the pumpkin and I am assuming this will be a fun job aswell. Anyone have any tips to make this one sail smoothly? hahaha

09-08-2007, 09:19 PM
Just do them blind on the passenger side. You have to learn to feel it with your hands.

You can get the spark plug socket up there. those usually have flats on them, you can get a wrench on the flats and turn the plugs in and out that way. If you have collapsed motor mounts it can be tougher.