Bucks and jerks at anything less than WOT

Curtis, did you replace the headgaskets already? I wouldn't expect it to run too well with a blown headgasket, and I wouldn't recommend running it at all with one.

-Rod
 
racecougar said:
Curtis, did you replace the headgaskets already? I wouldn't expect it to run too well with a blown headgasket, and I wouldn't recommend running it at all with one.

-Rod
Click to expand...

HG's are fixed. I already have a DIS comming, how do I check the the camshaft or crank sensor?
 
if the car does'nt run good i don't know if you should be running the throttle up on it ,could hurt something
before the HG issue how was the car running
steve

what are the plugs and wires like
who ended up fixing the HG's

steve
 
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cbt said:
if the car does'nt run good i don't know if you should be running the throttle up on it ,could hurt something
before the HG issue how was the car running
steve

what are the plugs and wires like
who ended up fixing the HG's

steve
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Before the HGs the car ran just like it does now, A buddy and me did the HGs I'm very particular..........they are done right.

I guess I'll find where those 2 things are and replace them
 
Dis was reinstalled and it ran ok for about 10 min then it started back up again,

how hard are the other two sensors to get to?
 
my first tbird would run ok if i was completly outa boost, but anything other then that, anything besides WOT would buck HORRIBLY. It was my plugs and wires.
 
Don't worry about rhe crank sensor. If it is bad you will have no spark. Will not cause bucking. Have you checked your Harmonic Balancer though? If you wsee any wooble of the crank pulley it is probably broken and has slipped your timing. Just a thought.
 
did you use the heat compound under the DIS
what bolts or studs did you use
was a torque wrench used / at what torque
did you replace the plugs after the last HG issue
what plugs are you using
whats the condition of the plug wires

steve
 
cbt said:
did you use the heat compound under the DIS
what bolts or studs did you use
was a torque wrench used / at what torque
did you replace the plugs after the last HG issue
what plugs are you using
whats the condition of the plug wires

steve
Click to expand...


I have a new BHJ

I used compound

The car has new stock head bolts (yes I know ARPs are better but I'm stuck with them)

I'll check the TQ

yes replaced plugs, new from SCP I told Bill I needed new plugs and he sent them

Wires are brand new from SCP............I think they are livewires.....
 
How did the old plugs looks and what plugs are you running? You should be running standard copper Autolite 103's with a .034 gap, with those mods. Did you adjust the TPS according to you last posts, also is it running to rich IE can you smell raw fuel in the exhaust or in the IC tubes.
 
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Unplug the cam sensor :cool: ... really!

It may take multiple attempts to start, but will run. Key off between attempts.
 
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I'm looking in "chiltons repair manual" right now to find out where the cam sensor is


The plugs where black (running rich)
 
CurtisPaulfrey said:
I'm looking in "chiltons repair manual" right now to find out where the cam sensor is


The plugs where black (running rich)
Click to expand...

Bet ya 20 bucks its the cam sensor. unplugin it might not tell you anything, didn't on mine. check the codes and if it comes up can't ID cylinders then it should be the cam sensor. Code for 94-95 cars is 214.

My plugs where the same as your's. Under med accel would buck backfire all that crap, checked the plugs they were black changed em out did nothing. WOT ran ok but not the best. checked codes and replace cam sensor code went away and car runs great now.
 
The DIS is in and it works better, the revs free if I go WOT..............the car will rev fine, its when I try and hold 2k RPM............the engine jerks so bad.........I'll have to wait for the engine to cool down before I try and pull that sensor under the blower
 
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