Just replaced The IAC and

Just a guess... not sure if it'll work or not, but try starting it up and hold open the throttle enough to keep it running for about a minute, then slowly let off the throttle to see if it'll hold an idle.

Another thing is to try is recalibrating your TPS.
 
i can get it to stay running if i hold the throttle open alittle bit, let it run for a bit then let the throttle go back to rest position. BUT when i put it in gear it dies.......aarrrgggghhhh
 
I hope you didn't get a bad IAC, that would be a pain! Maybe the stop screw and TPS need to be calibrated? Here's a thread on how to do it:

The car should run around 500 -550 rpms with the IAC unplugged. You may need to get some throttle body cleaner and clean the TB or even adjust the idle stop screw slightly. The tps should read between .85 - .95 volts with the key on or with engine running at closed throttle. You will have to back probe the tps plug end to get the voltage reading from a DVOM or use a code scanner that reads DCL information to get the tps voltage. I stick a long needle into the back of the tps plug to read the voltage with my DVOM. The idle stop screw will mess with the TPS voltage so one thing will affect another.

Here's the full thread:
http://www.sccoa.com/forums/showthread.php?t=78735&highlight=tps+idle+iac+volts
 
i only sprayed the outside throttle linkage with WD40.......runs now but stalls when put in gear.....damnit, damnit,damnit,damnit,damnit,damnit,damnit,damnit,damnit,damnit,damnit,damnit,
 
okay......a question....i drove the car for 2 days with the IAC idling high and sounding like a goose (really bad when i shut it off), could that have done any damage to anything? I finally got the car to stop stalling when put in gear by adjusting the idle set screw to idle slightly higher. It still wants to stall but at the very last second it catches and stays running......i unplug the IAC and the car stalls, as it should, so the IAC is good, not a defective ford part. I replaced the TPS also with a spare i had and no dice, it still wanted to stall, so, that is when i adjusted the idle screw. I really hope there is a quick, easy fix for this or the SC is going bye bye.....or at least it will be replaced with an import for a daily driver.......
 
okay......a question....i drove the car for 2 days with the IAC idling high and sounding like a goose (really bad when i shut it off), could that have done any damage to anything? I finally got the car to stop stalling when put in gear by adjusting the idle set screw to idle slightly higher. It still wants to stall but at the very last second it catches and stays running......i unplug the IAC and the car stalls, as it should, so the IAC is good, not a defective ford part. I replaced the TPS also with a spare i had and no dice, it still wanted to stall, so, that is when i adjusted the idle screw. I really hope there is a quick, easy fix for this or the SC is going bye bye.....or at least it will be replaced with an import for a daily driver.......

Driving with a defective IAC isn't a big issue. I hope you didn't touch the screw where the throttle linkage rests on. That should never be adjusted. The part number to the IAC seems right. Make sure everything is tightly attached and you have no vacuum leaks. If all fails try a different IAC.
 
Just curious, but did you disconnect the battery at any point and let it set for about 15 minutes since the replacement?
 
no, I did not disconnect the battery. After 2 days of nervous, is it gunna stall, driving, all seems to be fine now. I guess the eec learned the idle curve again. It idles at 600-650, i'm guessing, when in gear and stopped. In park, warm 750-900, again guessing. It seems to run much nicer now, the old IAC had a section of the bellows brokern off and missing.
 
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