Codes: 10, 113, 411, 118, 123, 327,511

dklitzke

Registered User
Seems to be the time to compare codes, by the look of the most recent posts! My SC is a '95 auto w/ 196k, moderately modded. :D

Well, I replaced the batteries in my tester and finally got a few answers, but also have a few questions, so here's what I have:

10 - ?
113 - need new IAC
118 - need new coolant sensor
123 - need new TPS
327- EGR (I scrapped it awhile back, but did not correct the chip)
411 - huh? Need you engineers' help here.
511 - ROM test failure, huh?? Is that the car or the tester??:D

Dang IAC alone is $86.00 from Rock Auto. I still have the oil pressure guage not reading, might be a sensor after all, with all these others biting the dust at the same time.

How about it, what's a 411, a 511?

don
prospect TN
 
I believe you can get 511 if the car is chipped/tuned..

atleast that's what I've been told.
 
What Dave said...

First thing is to indicate what were the test conditions, i.e. KOEO or KOER.
Did you warm the car to normal operating temps?
The indication of a code DOES NOT automatically mean the component associated with that code is defective. You need to perform more specific tests to determine exactly what is causing the code. Further, bear in mind one of those codes/causes can indicate to the PCM that it needs to set the other codes. I.E. fix the first code and the others may also be fixed.

Code 10 indicates cylinder #1 is low during the cylinder balance test. NOTE: This is also known as a 'Separator Code' to indicate during KOEO that the PCM is done sending hard faults and is now going to send memory codes.
Code 113 indicates ACT above max voltage.
Code 118 indicates ECT above max voltage.
Code 123 indicates TPS above max voltage.
Code 327 indicates EGR sensor is below min voltage.
Code 411 indicates cannot control RPM KOER, low RPM check.
Code 511 indicates EEC ROM test failure.

While I don't know the conditions under which the test(s) were performed, I can't offer much else at this point except:

1. Erase all the codes, as you have a record of them.
2. Prepare the car & rerun KOEO Record any and all hard faults.
3. If there are no KOEO hard faults, run KOER and record any codes.

Based upon what you have indicated, I am going to go out on a limb and say all the codes you have are memory codes. This means the PCM saw something at one time that made it set the code(s), but the problem IS NOT PRESENT during the last test you ran. While my memory is a bit lax, I recall it takes EEC somewhere around 40 key cycles (starts) with no problem before it will erase a memory code on its own.

I would also suggest you start looking at the symptoms the car is exhibiting, not just the codes. This will make things easier for those of us who cannot touch the car to help you.
 
The car was cold when I plugged in the EEC tester

Thanks for the feedback. The car was running almost normal, before I stopped driving it. The problem is the oil pressure and temp both read zero. That's probably enough of a problem to generate some codes, i.e., 118. But until I get those working I am not going to chance driving it and have a catastrophy. BTW, it has an Apten chip in it, Dave. As to following instructions, I am a greenhorn at using the code reader, so you are probably right. :D
I will go back and read the book more carefully. My immediate plan is to replace the oil and temp sending units, then hopefully clear those codes and see if it needs anything else. This car is my daily driver, and the truck only gets about 14MPG average. What tool is best to get at that blasted oil pressure sending unit anywho?? It's at a real bad angle to get at. Thanks.

don
 
Thanks for the feedback. The car was running almost normal, before I stopped driving it. The problem is the oil pressure and temp both read zero. That's probably enough of a problem to generate some codes, i.e., 118. But until I get those working I am not going to chance driving it and have a catastrophy. BTW, it has an Apten chip in it, Dave. As to following instructions, I am a greenhorn at using the code reader, so you are probably right. :D
I will go back and read the book more carefully. My immediate plan is to replace the oil and temp sending units, then hopefully clear those codes and see if it needs anything else. This car is my daily driver, and the truck only gets about 14MPG average. What tool is best to get at that blasted oil pressure sending unit anywho?? It's at a real bad angle to get at. Thanks.

don

you need to get the car up to operating temp when you are doing your KOER tests
 
I agree with the others... especially clear the codes and rerun the test with the car warm.

I find it suspicious that you have 3 sensors that are (or did at some time if they are memory codes) cause "above max voltage" errors. I'd be more inclined to suspect a problem with the reference voltage (generated by the ECU (computer) or perhaps a missing/flaky ground then the actual sensors. The fact that you have also lost the oil pressure and coolant gauges may also point to a ground problem.

One sensor may die. The chances of having 3 sensors die with the same fault and losing two gauges all at the same time would be almost as slim as winning the lottery!

Don't start throwing parts at it yet. The issues you are describing do no sound like sensor failures!

Vince

p.s.: Do yourself a favor and buy a mechanical oil pressure gauge. Then you'll know what the oil pressure really is.
 
Update on the multiple guage/code problem

Vince,
Sounds like you may have hit the nail on the head in pointing out that I may just have bad ground causing multiple guage (oil/temp) flatlines. I have been on work related travel for the past couple of weks and haven't had a chance to do anything to the car. Tell me, what particular ground connections should I be checking. Thanks. I will let you know what I find.

'95 SC/auto, 196k, 76mm MAF, 75mm TB, 5% OD pulley, SCP exhaust/Kooks headers, 180 degree T-stadt, Apten chip, always well maintained, driven daily.
 
Back
Top