Replacing rear rotors + pads .. Question

DCClark

Registered User
Well, I go to pull the wheels to look at pads, since I knew they were low. Well one decided to throw most of the pad, and the shoe has eaten a rotor ( suck ), ok so I order 2 new rotors because I knew they needed to be replaced anyhow (out of spec). Ordered that and brakepads, now is there something I am missing to compress the calipers? I did the fronts about 2 months ago and the rears just will not compress, got a big C clamp, a board, and put it around the caliper , crack the bleeder and stuff oozes, but nothing like the front shooting out stars. No I do not have a manual (haynes, chilton, etc.) Is it possible the emergency brake is the culprit? Has anyone done this recently and would like to shine some light on this? or should I just go buy a book at autozone, or pepboys? I have a chilton repair manual at my house in MD which does me no good here =p. I'd hate to buy another. Thanks all.
 
screw the pistons back in clockwise using a special (but modified still) tool, or a set of vise grips pliers to hold the caliper and a set of channel lock pliers to turn the piston a small bit at a time. Very slow work and a knuckle scraper, but it will get the job done.
 
special tool

tool.jpg


part # T87P-2588-A ...about $35 bucks

1-800-ROTUNDA That is where I got the tool. My mustang has the same type of rear calipers. The piston has to turn into the bore as it is compressed because it is threaded onto the E-brake center piece. Schucks Auto supply has a similar type of tool that is supposedly universal and it goes on the end of a ratchet. It doesn't work worth a damn though.

I haven't used the tool yet, but will this weekend when I replace my rear rotors and pads. I didn't want to do the job without the tool because I know I would be swearing the whole time like I was with my Mustang.
 
Ok, well I feel pretty stupid for not having a manual to read but again as always you guys here at the sccoa bail me out of a jam. Thanks guys I really appreciate it ! =), Time to see if I can find this tool locally.
 
As far as the tool goes from the above company, I called and the new Global Part Number is 206-026. The cost is 33.90, Shipping (next day is ~$25, 2nd day is ~15). Now time to order that with ground shipping and to find one locally that I can use until then.
(They are based in Minnesota) 1-800-ROTUNDA
 
I am going to continue the saga this evening by, putting the new rotors on, and placing the calipers back on (bolted up to the car), I have a piece of steel I am milling to make this specific tool, from there hopefully I can continue to my regularly scheduled program. On a side note, driving the Suzuki 200 Trailbike to work, is a blast. Maybe I'll leave the SC at home, and drive this to and from work ?!
 
done, diddly, done

Thats under the rug now. All back together, everything seems happy, going to check tommorrow and make sure nothing is hanging and really dragging. I had to replace the boots on the pass rear caliper, and a bolt was siezed(sp) in the caliper itself. A little heat and some wd40+ twisting and that was out. Off to find the caliper boots (ha yea, call ford 4 places and finally find one "STEALERSHIP" that had 2 sets of replacement pins + boots + grease, ofcourse my old pins weren't bad, even the siezed one. But I got that all done put back together, the part that we milled worked good. I'm glad thats all behind me for sure! She stops better than ever and hopefully will be happy with her new "shoes". Thanks again for everyones help, Lata!
 
A quick note.

Dealerships are not the only source for boots and pins. I was able to find a replacement kit including two pins, two boots, and a tube of lube at a local NAPA store.

It was cheaper than going through ford, but can't recall the cost right now.
 
KD Tools also makes a tool that actually fits. Part # 3355. It fits on the end of a 3/8" drive. Seems like it is about $15 at most auto part stores and some Sears stores.
 
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