Coating SC

sccrewzer

Registered User
Has anyone ever applied teflon coating on the inside of the SC casing as well as the rotors? is it a good or bad idea? I figure it will close up the little gap we have in the blower wouldn't that make better boost? Just a thought I just disassembled my blower and the coating in my rotor pack needs to be redone.
 
It is possible to coat it with some sort of urethane or other spray coating. However, not too many people have been doing this in their garage. So, I would say that results for the shadetree version are somewhat unknown. However, Embree Specialty Machine has been coating rotor packs for a while. I don't know how those worked out, but I haven't heard bad things about them. The most popular option seems to be buying rotor packs from recent supercharged GM cars (Pontiac Grand Prix, Buick Regal GS, Park Avenue Ultra, etc.).
 
I think he is asking about coating the inside of his blower case. Personally I have never heard of anyone trying this.
 
I wouldn't do it myself. But then I'm another term for a small cat.

You need to find out what the specs are for the clearances, taking into account the expansion of materials with the heat. Then find a way to make sure the coating you apply doesn't exceed that.

The high speed lab will do such coatings.
http://www.thehighspeedlab.com/
 
Also you need to check on how well that stuff will stick. There's pictures around here of the coatings on the newer GM rotors sticking to the inside of the intercooler because those have been peeling off.
 
I'd call up the high speed lab since they are doing the rotor coating and see if you're idea is feasable.You might not be able to coat the case and rotors due to the limited space between them but they should be able to tell you if it's doable.

Jay
 
GTP Rotor pack

I think you'd just be better off buying a GTP rotor pack off ebay with coated rotors. Seems like they were around $400. In all honesty, you're not likely to pick up more than 10-20HP or so (probably less) and the coating will eventually start to peel. Or you could just pick up a used 94/95 model blower.
Biggest problem with trying to use urethane, etc to coat yourself is inability to control the thickness of the coating, which is critical. Glisten PC, which is a top urethane coating from POR15, is supposed to settle down to a uniform thickness. But in practice, it sets a little too quickly and will have thick/thin spots.
If you can find it, VHT Motor bright is a nothing but a clear urethane suspended in acetone and toluene in rattle cans. Even in a spray it's difficult to get an even, consistant coating.

Daspanka
 
Coated rotors when done properly = less leakage within the compressor.
Less leakage within the compressor = greater efficiency
Greater efficiency = more air moved with less effort.
(industrial compressors are being coated for this reason)

Since I've already gone down the path of the snow system, I placed an small injector ahead of the blower which helps with rotor sealing within the case and gives me some benefit of the coating.

Proper surface prep on the rotors is required to get the coating to stick. Then they also have to be somewhat flexible to be able to handle the expansion that the rotor pack will have as it heats up. (it's aluminum) That heat cycling is likely the cause of de-lamination of the coatings on existing packs. Overdriving the blower will cause more heat thus more expansion. I don't know how thick the coating can be, but I would think the Moly coatings that you find used on forged pistons by companies like SwainTech would hold up to the heat cycling. I just don't know if that ends up being too thick.
 
Coated rotors when done properly = less leakage within the compressor.
Less leakage within the compressor = greater efficiency
Greater efficiency = more air moved with less effort.
(industrial compressors are being coated for this reason)

Since I've already gone down the path of the snow system, I placed an small injector ahead of the blower which helps with rotor sealing within the case and gives me some benefit of the coating.

Proper surface prep on the rotors is required to get the coating to stick. Then they also have to be somewhat flexible to be able to handle the expansion that the rotor pack will have as it heats up. (it's aluminum) That heat cycling is likely the cause of de-lamination of the coatings on existing packs. Overdriving the blower will cause more heat thus more expansion. I don't know how thick the coating can be, but I would think the Moly coatings that you find used on forged pistons by companies like SwainTech would hold up to the heat cycling. I just don't know if that ends up being too thick.

Does anyone know what kind of temperatures are seen on the rotors during hard use?
 
Considering that ACT outlet temps can be over 200 degrees F after the stock intercooler... I'd say rotor temps can get into the high 200's.
 
my street style roots blowers always used teflon strips that were clearenced fit (to an extent). Fuel before the blower not only helped cool down the temps but also helped seal the rotors as well so i can see that as a good thing .

Now I dont see why a coatings such as a moly couldnt be used on the inside of the case and even wear to fit.
 
the downside to injecting before the SC is now there is more engery used by the sc to compress the vapor. weither you get that engery back out or not is the question. Adding a little bit is probably the best situation.
 
Thanks for the responses, the reason I was asking is cause my homies brother in law works in a powder coating company and I think he could do the teflon coating on my rotor pack for next to nothing or a 12 pack:D does any one now the thickness of the coating on the 94/95 rotor pack? Is it even a teflon coat or something else?
I don't have $400 for a new GTP pack thanks for the info tho.
 
the downside to injecting before the SC is now there is more engery used by the sc to compress the vapor. weither you get that engery back out or not is the question. Adding a little bit is probably the best situation.

Remember, our blowers do not compress as air travels through them, they simply pack the air into the intake system at the outlet. They basically take a fixed amount of air in one side, and carry it through to the other side. By being driven by the crankshaft, and through the use of pullies, positive pressure is generated because the air is being moved to the output of the blower faster than the engine can consume it.

If sized right, the amount of vapor will cool the intake air charge and improve rotor sealing helping to cool the blower rotors that heat up from beating against the air on the pressurized side. In theory this improves blower efficiency, not decreasing it. Certainly in application you have a good chance of decreasing efficiency but if applied properly, it should be a net gain.
 
I spoke to a guy at a gun store about putting a ceramic gun coating on the rotors. I said he could do it but could make no promises on thickness or how long it would stay on there. I didn't try it but maybe someone who has a spare sc will one day.
 
I'm going to try the Alumahyde-II gun coating on a pair of rotors I have around the house. I have been planning to do it for some time. I got the idea from Wynn Carter (tbird88) before he disappeared. I will let you know how it works if and when I get them installed.
 
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