Is pro street Rich still alive?

blown94cougar

Registered User
I have been tryin to get ahold of him Pm's threads nothing no answers not even an "I dont know" has he fallen off the face of the earth? I have a question about the mounting pattern of the 460 block motor mounts
 
Naw...he was just here in town last week. He posted a few days ago but blew out his tranny. He is probably neck deep in the red fluid.

Chris
 
+here I am. now you need to drop a what in what??

I have been tryin to get ahold of him Pm's threads nothing no answers not even an "I dont know" has he fallen off the face of the earth? I have a question about the mounting pattern of the 460 block motor mounts

JUst kidding....LOL... Here is the long and short of doing this swap.
1] you will need to get a oil pan and pickup&pump from a truck. This is the only ones that are for a rear sump.
2] set the engine in the hole and put it so the valve cover clears the master,if it is a late car this is not a issue.
3]Keeping the engine as low as you can,put a peice of 1/2 plywood between the pan and the cross member. This will keep it the right height and will also help with the next step.
4] Get a set of low profile rubber mounts for a 460 truch or car, bolt pattern is the same to the block and mount them to the block.
5] Now your engine is sitting on the oil pan and the plywood, move it over to the "curb" side of the car. You will see that Ford placed the engine in these cars to the "curb" side when they built them, so we will do the same..
6] Use cardboard as a pattern, make the metal adaptors that go from the stock engine mount on the "K" member to the engine mount. Make the adaptors like a "U" shape and close off one side of the "U"
7] Exhaust is your best part. you can use manifolds from a mid 80's F 250-350 two wheel drive truck.
7A] You can get a set of hooker headers from a 80's "fox" swap, but you have to mod one tube on the drivers side to clear the steering.
8] Steering, it is best to get rid of the "rag" joint and replace it with a "U" joint..
9]I would put an "AJE" "K" member on the car as well. This will open up the underside for more room and you can get them to build one with a 2" drop. THis will make it a lot better to close the hood.
10] Transmission is a simple deal. Use a C6 that should be behind most 460's. This will bolt right up and you can even use the stock transmission cross member from the bird.
11] driveshaft will be a custom made part.
12] Cooling, simple, get the same "Be Cool" rad that is used in that "fox" swap.
13] shifter, I have used the stock t-bird one with a slight mod to the linkage on the trans. You can also use the B&M shifter, that is one nice part and if you take your time you can still keep the stock look in the car...
There you are, simple and eazy "how to" for a big block in a bird. THe rest is up to you as to how far you want to go.. I run fuel cells in the trunk which opens up the bottom of the car for all the exhaust you want, I run 4" duals out the stock location...
I hope this helps you out and sorry if I took too long to get back to you. I was a bit busy doing things...
How fast will it be??? Well a stock junk yard bone stock 120,000 mile truck engine with nothing on it went 14.0 to 13.5's with nothing done. Now a "crate" 514 from Ford got the same car to run 11.5's with some mild mod's to the rest of the car. Now if you go nuts[as I have] and build a 600 inch tall deck race engine, with some more stuff done to the chassie, look for #'s below the 10.0s' that is if you got the licence to drive it at the track......Rich
 
Rich, does the distributer clear the hood or are you running a modified hood? I would not be suprised if an aluminum headed 460 didn't weigh about the same as the complete 6 with all of the assosciated intercooler tubes and pipes and associated modern components. A Holley 850 is pretty lightweight and the darn thing wont have silly electrical gremlins like my DIS system. Do you have a good coil pack you could part with now that you've switched cause my car isn't running right? I could probably use the complete system from a good running car so mine will run right. Thanks, Roy
 
Need a cobra "R" hood to do it best...

Rich, does the distributer clear the hood or are you running a modified hood? I would not be suprised if an aluminum headed 460 didn't weigh about the same as the complete 6 with all of the assosciated intercooler tubes and pipes and associated modern components. A Holley 850 is pretty lightweight and the darn thing wont have silly electrical gremlins like my DIS system. Do you have a good coil pack you could part with now that you've switched cause my car isn't running right? I could probably use the complete system from a good running car so mine will run right. Thanks, Roy

You are right on one thing and almost on another... The engine with alumium heads is just about 75 pounds LIGHTER..... Yes more power, less weight.... The other one is the hood. you can get by with a steel hood if you drop the engine, but it is a lot better to do both...
Now as for the coil, I have a few of them here, is that all you need??....Rich
 
what do you mean by "curb" 'ing ? didnt understand that part as for the engine it is out of an 89 F-250 so I got the pan already the engine was just overhauled but never ran Im hoping its a c-6 behind it as for the car its a 94 so the heater core has the passenger side bends the car already has a b&m prostick shifter and I have the c-6 adaptor lever and bracket,Also I have a 3" fiberglass hood already and I do have an RCI fuel cell custom mounted in the trunk already just gotta finish up the plumbing ,So I think the major thing is driveshaft what length has to come out of it?...does the engine clear the stock brake booster ? my car is non ABS small master cylinder as well also will the truck mounts from the 89' truck it came out of work for this? thanks Rich my main question is the curbing though
 
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you are right

would that mean to the passenger side right?

The best way to tell one side from the other is by using curb and drivers side, unless you are from England, then everything is wrong...LOL This is a way to be sure, if someone says move it to the "right" then is that looking at the car or from the car's point of view?? That is why I use the curb side and drivers side to explain this...Rich
 
Got ya rich thank you....never thought of it like that what about the power brake booster? can it stay in there or do I have to ditch it?
 
it can stay

Got ya rich thank you....never thought of it like that what about the power brake booster? can it stay in there or do I have to ditch it?

The booster can stay if you want. I got rid of it on one car because the engine would not make enought vaccumm to run the brakes. There is room to keep it so that will make that part simple.....Rich
 
guess i'll have to run a vacuum can I like power brakes I have rear drums on the car so I'd like to keep'em if possible I plan on running a pretty lopey cam so Yea no problem I'll just run a vacuum can and hope its enough . One more thing Rich is there any critical measurements I need to be aware of ? like rear of the block to firewall? I guess the plate for the trans mount would remedy measuring fore and aft any how thanx rich I greatly appreciate the help
 
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Rich one more question with the c-6 trans how short did you have to make the driveshaft ? how many inches needs to come out im gonna pick up a spare shaft and get it done before I swap the engine in Im trying to make this a quick swap if possible I have swapped a 429 in an old mustang project that took me one weekend to do I think the hardest thing is going to be makin the motor mounts to adapt to our Kmember now that I look at at ive got everything else heres the list lemme know if I missed something

the car
1989 F-250 ford 460 engine(complete EFI)
vacuum canister (lopey cam)
1/4" steel plate (trans mount extension)
B&m prostick shifter(already in the car)
RCI fuel cell(in the trunk already)


ever thought about keeping the thing EFI Rich? im interested in doing that I could repin the cougar computer connector to match the fast computer box run a wilson EFI modified manifold and the elbow and walla I guess I'll see what happens
 
get a shaft made...

The shop I use will do them while I wait. The stock shaft will rip apart as soon as you drop the hammer on all that power.. Steel should cost about $100 and alumium was $155 for me to get made....rich
 
Long time !!

Nice to to see you still here . Been over at TCCOA alot . Oh , dont forget the inline water hose filler . You can get one from Dodge like I did for $40.00 . It will be easy to keep cool if the air is out of the system . Welcome to the BIG BLOCK family .
 
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